Montalcino vintages '05 - '09
Casa Middachten a 'Olanda
Tasted January 13, 2012 by Jochems with 919 views
Introduction
We tasted a vertical of Rosso di Montalcino from Sesta di Sopra. And some Brunello di Montalcino from Sesta di Sopra, Querce Bettina and Pian Dell Vigne (Antinori).
I'm following Sesta di Sopra now since the '99 vintage (only missed the '00) and find it a very consistent producer of (what I call) classic Brunello. Ettore Spina and his wife Enrica started with the '99 vintage, just after the hype of '97. He has been varying a little more with his Rosso di Montalcino, with a choice to start using Battonage from the '07 vintage. I like the older style a little more. But the later vintages are more of a 'baby Brunello' which some of you might like even more.
Querce Bettina is an even younger wine producer. Roberto and Sandra released '04 Brunello as their first vintage. I coincidently discovered this wine in 2009 and was immediately impressed.
The Pian Dell Vinge was thrown in as a reference and because I recently bought a case of this at an auction, and I just wanted to try a bottle:-)
Flight 1 - Rosso di Montalcino (5 notes)
Ruby color with some hints of amber at the rim. Full aromas of ripe blackberry and some leather. Medium bodied with silky smooth tannins and balanced fruit and acidity. The finish is medium long and remains fresh. Its more lively than I had expected.
Drink now - 2013.
Lots of cherry and fresh berry fruit with some barnyard and leather. Full bodied on the palate with fresh acidity and chewy tannins. The finish is long and fresh. This wine needs food! (and more oxigen:-).
If you have some bottles: leave them alone for a few more years!
Initially attractive on the nose, slightly lean and edgy on the palate. Drink now.
Light ruby color. Fresh aromas of cherry, cassis and some strawberry and hints of leather and red licorice. Full bodied and smooth with dusty tannins and fresh acidity. The finish is medium-long and is very fresh with an distinct all-spice twist to it. Nice!
Drink now - 2015.
Flight 2 - Brunello di Montalcino (5 notes)
Ruby color with some light hints of amber at the rim. Full aromas of ripe dark fruit, some smoke and dried flowers and hints of red licorice. Full bodied with silky smooth tannins, a great fruit and acidity balance with some of that aged Brunello sweetness. The finish is medium long and remains fresh throughout.
This wine has some classic Brunello character in a good, but not impressive, way. Well balanced and developed right now. I don't see much room for further improvement, but the wine will at leas last at this level for several more years to come. Drink now - 2016.
Ruby colour. Full aromas of blackcurrant, cherry and some fresh berry and leather and hints of licorice. Following trough full bodied with silky mouth coating tannins, fresh acidity and lots of good fruit. The finish is very long and remains fresh with a hint of eucalyptus to it!
I think this wine is entering its sleeper phase, but there is loads of development potential here. Don't touch it for the next 5 years or so. Drink 2016 - 2026.
Not bad for something that cannot be called a Brunello :-)
Ruby color. Full aromas of Blackcurrant, cherry some tobacco and spices evolving with hints of licorice and cinnamon. Full bodied with smooth tannins balanced acidity and some good fruit. The finish is long and fresh.
This is a great example of classic Brunello that stands out in refinement and complexity. Its not a huge-structered Brunello. But it provides much of the unique character that a better vintage like '04 and '06 will give in 5-8 years time. Perfect Brunello to get to know something about the greatness of wines from this DOCG, without having to wait for another half decade. Drink now - 2018.
In terms of its drinking window this wine is in the same range as the Pian delle Vinge '01 from Antinori we had during the same tasting. This underlines the early drinker character of the '05 vintage.
There is some resemblance with '06 and '04 here. Now in a more ripe and spicy incarnation. I like '06 a little more, but I can imagine that people who like it bold & spicy prefer this vintage.
Perhaps not as fresh and refined as the '06 and '04 but overall at a similar level. I opened the bottle and consumed it over 10 hours. As usual the last glass was the best.... It is still young but very open and lively give it some slow-ox time to show its full potential. While it also has lots of structure to last for some time, based on my experience with similar BdM I expect that it will close down in a few years. Drink now or 2017 - 2027.
Closing
If I had to give a score to these vintages according to the 5-star system of the Conzorzio del Vino Brunello it would look something like this:
2005 - ***
2006 - *****
2007 - ****
2008 - **
2009 - ****
Please bear in mind that the '08 and '09 ratings are only based on Rosso di Montalcino! In fact, '07 would be a ***** if where only because of the Rosso... Anyway, as a closing remark I would say: drink some '05 Brunello now!