Mini Comte de Vogue Dinner

Yusho, Chicago IL

Tasted May 21, 2012 by MatthewF with 327 views

Introduction

A few friends were in from out of town and since they can't make Knightsbridge's Comte de Vogue dinner next month, we decided to do our own smaller version with some of the same wines that were recently shipped in from the Domaine along with a couple of others. Chef Matthias Merges and his team put together an amazing array of food as usual.

Flight 1 (5 notes)

White
1999 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Library release from the Domaine just shipped in about 5 weeks ago. Opened and drank over about 90 minutes. Served alongside the 2009 vintage. Upon opening, the nose was fairly tight with a great deal of mineral, faint floral and a bit of citrus. Palate showed some firmer yellow fruit and a beeswax character with a mineral backbone. Much tigher overall than the 2009. After an hour or so in the glass, the nose began to give more ripe fruit and floral notes, but still kept a lot in reserve. The fruit on the palate had a certain waxiness that made us all think of the Northern Rhone. Moderate acidity and weight on the palate. Overall a very youthful bottle, but as it opens, it does start to show some of its age.
White
2009 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Served alongside a Library Release 99 Vintage. Opened, not decanted, and drank over roughly 90 minutes. Right from the start this had fairly powerful and opulent aromatics. Ripe stone fruit, lemon, white flowers and some crushed stone. Great concentration of fruit and intensity on the palate. Medium body, finish and acidity. A delicious wine. It was interesting to see that this and the '99 Library Release had basically the same color in the glass.
Red
1993 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Library Release from the Domaine shipped in about 5 weeks ago. The cork was popped about 2.5 hours before serving, but it was not decanted. Powerful, seductive aromatics right from the start. Dark red cherry and crushed berries with damp earth/crushed leaves and bits of clove. Some mineral/iron notes in the background as well. The same red cherry/berry fruit and earth on the densely packed palate. Medium body with a lengthy finish. Wonderful rich texture and balance of fruit, mineral and acidity. This has quite a bit of structure remaining and I'm in no hurry to drink the bottles I stashed away, but not sure if I'll be able to resist. For drinking now, easily the wine of the night.
Red
2002 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Library Release from the Domaine shipped in about 5 weeks ago. Opened about 2.5hours before trying and not decanted. Not giving much on the nose or palate at first and needed a good hour or so to start opening up. Very firm, muscular red and black berry fruit and plum on the nose with espresso, bitter chocolate, and almost a tobacco leaf-like quality. The palate had the same mix of red and black fruits with a firm core of minerality. Amazing concentration with a deep, sweet core of fruit. There was an amazing amount of structure here. Medium plus body and finish. Fantastic acidity all throughout. I have a few of these from the original release as well so it will be interesting to see how they age compared to these library releases. Clearly the wine with the longest life ahead of it tonight.
Red
1998 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Cork was popped 2.5 hours before serving, but not decanted. A powerful mix of red and almost black cherry and berry on the nose and palate with pretty and delicate floral tones, damp earth and brown spice. A lot of mineral structure, but not overwhelming. Fantastic acidity all throughout. The best way to describe this bottle was a core of hedonistic fruit and power wrapped in a feminine, mineral shell. I would wait a few more years on this one.

Closing

Great line up of wines with great friends. Its really amazing to see how youthful these Library Release wines are. It really illustrates that provenance is everything...

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