The most withdrawn showing of this I've had so far. Clean, precise and very young seeming, but the richer, lusher aspects of its character seemed to be hiding today.

This wonderful mix of almost water-like purity and profound concentration. Salted lemon peel and mineral as you'd expect, but you have the feeling flavour components aren't quite what this is about. Very youthful and somewhat reserved, though. Sort of meta-Chablis, a commentary on the genre. Like most of the afternoon's wine, more for contemplation than obvious, easy, pleasure.

Very serious, still quite bright tasting, assertive even, with obvious iron and blood notes on both nose and palate. Still remarkably tannic for a 40+ year old wine. More interesting than enjoyable, but obviously a serious wine. 60 Palmer alongside was rather better.

Lots of obvious tertiary characteristics, mushrooms and forest floor, along with tobacco and almost citric notes, with a core of genuine fruit still at the centre of it all. Clearly old bordeaux, but I'm not sure the Margaux side was still there, although it was far gentler than an also ancient Latour alongside.

This was quite interesting, very dark colour. Really quite sweet on one level, but both serious acidity and a resolved-ness, presumably from the age, that make it beautifully balanced. Some burnt orange-ish flavours, as well as the more oxidative components. In its own way, the most accessible of the afternoon's wines.