Charlie Trotter's Farewell Dinner with Montrachet, Brulees and Cros Parantoux

Charlie Trotter's, Chicago IL

Tasted July 12, 2012 by MatthewF with 581 views

Introduction

With so many great bottles left on Trotter's wine list, a group of five of us decided to go in together and buy a couple bottles of Jayer and bring in a few "related" or "successor" wines. We let the kitchen cook for us and they created a fantastic dinner that ended up around 16 courses or so. One of the best dinners I've ever had at the restaurant.

Flight 1 - Montrachet Flight (3 notes)

White
1999 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
flawed
Popped and poured. Darked color than it should be. Oxidative notes right from the start and it only got worse as time progressed. Waxy yellow fruits, with quite a bit of nuttiness. Showed a lot of acidity that only got more pronounced and obstrusive. If that was the only bottle of white, it would be drinkable, but fortunately we had the 2000 in the next glass.
White
2000 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Popped and poured alongside the 1999 vintage. Ripe, lush yellow citrus and orchard fruit aromatics and palate. Crushed stone and floral notes too. Very fresh and vibrant with great acidity. Wonderful intensity and concentration with a lengthy, powerful finish. A great Montrachet.
White
1999 Louis Jadot Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Popped and poured. Like the 2000 Marquis de Laguiche, very fresh and vibrant on the nose and palate. Ripe yellow citrus and stone fruit. Fantastic minerality with pretty spice notes too. Medium plus finish with lovely cleansing acidity. Should be drinking great for quite a while longer.

Flight 2 - Aux Brulees Flight (4 notes)

Red
1986 Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Brulées France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Opened about 30 minutes before serving, but not decanted. Fantastic aromatics right from the start. Vibrant red and sour cherry aromatics, great brown spice with sandalwood and earth tones. The palate started off with good fruit and spice, but showed a bit too much acidity. After roughly two hours though, the palate picked up density and the acidic edge smoothed out. The aromatics stayed the same all throughout the evening. Lenthy, spicy finish. Overall a beautiful wine.
Red
1993 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulées France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Opened 30 mintues before serving, but unfortunately not decanted. At first a little aromatically shut down, but you could see the immense power. A bit of swirling uncovered dark, briary berries and bing cherry with earth notes and very dark spice. Almost meaty. Very densely packed fruit and spice on the structured palate. An almost chewy character. Powerful, gripping finish. This wine kept getting better and better all evening long. I really need some of these in the cellar...
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Red
1996 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulées France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
flawed
Opened 30 minutes before serving. Started off nice with red cherry and berry aromas and flavors with pretty brown spice notes and some earthy qualities. As time passed however the nose became slightly stewy and less interesting. There were some very nice elements underneath, but unfortunately it was an off bottle.
Red
1998 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulées France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Opened and decanted about 30 minutues before serving. A nice mix of ripe red and black cherry and berry with great brown spice and earth notes. The same range of flavors on the palate as the aromatics. Still has some nice structure remaining, but is showing great. Medium plus body and finish. Great acidity. Lovely wine and unfortunately my last bottle.

Flight 3 - Cros Parantoux Flight (3 notes)

Red
1997 Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Opened about 30-45 minutes before serving and again, not decanted. Started off quite firm on the nose and palate and needed some serious air to help it open up. Powerful red and black cherry with fantastic spice and earth notes. The same fruit profile on the palate with a great concentration of fruit and a lot of remaining structure. Great texture all throughout. Very densely packed with a long finish. Fantastic balance to the wine and very youthful.
Red
1989 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Opened about 30-45 minutes before serving. Started off with a fantastically spicy nose and very dark/almost black sour cherries. Great concentration of fruit on the palate for the vintage with lovely texture all throughout. I was in the camp that the palate started shortening after 90 minutes or so, but there was some nice structure remaining to the wine, so who knows what the future holds. Nice refreshing acidity on the medium finish.
Red
2000 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Ripe, lush red fruit and great spice jump from the glass. Some great earthy/mushroom notes as well. Nice texture to the medium bodied palate. Tannins have integrated well and while it could certainly age for a little while longer, based on the way it showed tonight, I'd probably elect to drink now and over the short term. Absolutely delicious.

Flight 4 - Something sweet to finish (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
2001 Château de Fargues France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
From 375ml. Ripe peach and apricot aromas and flavors with some tropical notes as well. Grilled pineapple. Great balance of fruit and acidity with structure for aging. Very tasty with a lot of energy.

Closing

Thank you to the entire staff at Charlie Trotter's for a fantastic evening. The restaurant will certainly be missed in Chicago.

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