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Magnum Madness
New York, NY
Tasted September 23, 2010 by Burgundy Al with 775 views
Introduction
Thank you to Zachys for organizing, and of course for inviting me.
Flight 1 - Champagne (3 notes)
White - Sparkling
1983 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut
Great aromatic start, then lean, precise and very clean on palate with long, slightly angular finish.
White - Sparkling
1989 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut
From magnum. Big and powerful with very rich and lush aromas and flavors. I was afraid this might comes across tired, given the character of many 1989s today, but this was excellent with great textures. wine of the flight.
Flight 2 - White Burgundy (4 notes)
White
1982 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
Magnum. Great aromatic start with mostly fresh fruit, great spice. Big and lush fruit on palate, slightly sweet, very long and regal.
White
1986 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet
Magnum. Ripe fruit and a trace of mint on nose. Fat fruit on palate, less maturity than I would expect but seemingly a bit flabby and short on acid, which seemed to shorten an otherwise exceptional performance.
White
1996 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
95 points
Magnum. Lots of ripe apple and pear aromas. A bit more reserved to start on palate, but this was long and expanding. A bit acid-driven today, this will certainly continue to improve.
White
1999 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet
Big fruit on nose, slightly restrained on palate. More robust fruit and spice hints coming through on finish. Needed some more air or more time in cellar.
Flight 3 - "Older" Red Burgundy (4 notes)
Red
1990 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
Magnum. Big black fruit on nose and palate, along with lots of spice as well. Flavors came across more ripe than its aromas, but this was overall a very powerful 1990 (fairly common) but also incredibly balanced (much less common). Great textures and mouth feel.
Red
1990 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot
Magnum. Good ripe red fruit aromas and flavors, moderate spice. Slightly simple towards finish.
Red
1993 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny
95 points
Magnum. Powerful black fruit aromatics with big spicebox support. If served blind, I would have been more likely to identify this as from 1993 than from Mugnier, in that this charming wine was more brawny and dense than i typically expect, but that aside, this was sensational and a perfect example of making great wine that showcases the vintage. sensational potential, i remember trying this at La Paulee and wishing I had more time to assess this wine; well tonight i had some more time and now wish I owned some in the cellar.
Flight 4 - Break in the Action (1 note)
White - Sparkling
1983 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésimé
Magnum. Great textures, still vibrant and exciting with a good balance of age and freshness.
Flight 5 - "Younger" Red Burgundy (5 notes)
Red
1993 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux
Magnum. Perfumed start. Lots of black fruit, spice and power. Still very young, absolutely gorgeous.
Red
1996 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques
flawed
Magnum. A controversial wine tonight. Our table thought it slightly corked, the next table also thought it flawed but not corked, while the 3rd table enjoyed it tremendously. Group think at its best.
Red
1999 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares
Magnum. Bold, dark fruit aromas with background spice. Dense and slightly brooding on palate, with great flavors sneaking through from time to time. Great potential 2019-2039.
Red
1999 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart
Magnum. Lovely aromatic start of red and black fruit, great spice. Much less forthcoming on the palate, with subdued fruit and a slightly bitter finish. Not providing much pleasure tonight.
Red
1999 Emmanuel Rouget Echezeaux
Magnum. Great spice aromas with incredibly beautiful, pristine black fruit. Lots of everything on the palate with great power and length nicely supported by great structuring tannins and acidity, with everything already in harmony.
Flight 6 - Bordeaux (5 notes)
Red
1953 Château Gruaud Larose
Magnum. Lots of barnyard, some lingering fruit. Nice balance, life and subtlety for its age.
Red
1970 Château Haut-Brion
Magnum. I've had this a few times over the past few years and this is a better example. Good remaining fruit balanced the earthy character. Drinking beautifully tonight.
Red
1989 Château Mouton Rothschild
Magnum. Rich and robust dark, ripe fruit. Wonderful fresh aromas with great fruit and spice. Long life ahead, 94-95 point potential for me.
Red
1969 Château Cheval Blanc
Magnum (I think?). Wow, what a great, pleasant surprise. Big black fruit with some barnyard and horse character but overall incredible charm and finesse. A personal favorite for me tonight.
Flight 7 - And More (2 notes)
Red
1985 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
97 points
Magnum. Coming in at the last minute...my Wine of the Night. Anise, red fruit, floral hints. Gorgeous layers of flavors unfold and change over time. Sensational.
Red
1985 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia
Magnum. Big, modern fruit, very ripe, very engaging. Great density and length. Still has plenty left in the tank.