Wow this is a good showing for this. Still youthful, but gaining in complexity and gracefulness all the time. Much more classic - and more balanced - than the Cristal alongside.

Advanced but not over the hill. Extremely complex set of flavors - oyster shell seems quite prominent - with some oxidative notes, but still very vibrant.

Some debate as to whether this was more or less oxidized or just pleasantly on the way (I thought the latter). Representative mature riesling - somewhere between petrol and candle wax - with a little peachy fruit, but not perhaps truly enticing.

Traditional, quite forceful but with lots of personality. Structured still but not at all overwhelming. Robust, earthy gaminess rather than the ethereal Chambolle version of those flavors. Excellent wine and fully ready to drink.

Consistent with the previous bottle - ripe but slightly over the top.

This is certainly austere and reserved, but I think there is a lot of wine, in a slightly rustic way, to come from it. I wouldn't say it is fully closed, but nor is it showing a lot. Structure seems very well balanced, and only moderately intense, and there is a good whiff of turnipy pinot on the nose, but it is certainly in an in between stage between fruit and mature flavors. To hold, as are most all 99s - rare for me to open one and not think I've made a mistake.