Publican, Chicago IL

Tasted October 4, 2012 by KeithAkers with 641 views


This was put together on Berserkers. The theme is pretty self explanatory. It had been a while since I'd been to publican, so all I really needed was an excuse. Needless to say, this was as good of an excuse as any.

Flight 1 (14 notes)

2010 Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Poruzots France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
91 points
Nose: tight, but excellent nose with tones of roasted nuts, lemon curd, white fruits and navel oranges. Good depth lies underneath as well.

Taste: medium/full bodied with medium/high acidity that is piercing. There is good depth with tones of roasted nuts, lemon curd, pain grille, spiced pears and white fruits.

Overall: this can be a wonderful meursault with some more time. There is real nice depth on the nose and palate though the structure is a bit punishing right now.
2010 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Nose: huge and massive nose with tones of syrup, loads of butter, navel oranges, and marmalade. It's deep, but extremely rich and over done.

Taste: full bodied with low acidity. Very rich with tones of syrup, navel oranges, vanilla and some heat as well.

Overall: I'm not sure what to make of this. Most of my previous aubert experience has been with ones that had more bottle time. I would like a chance with this a few years from now.
White - Sparkling
2006 A. Margaine Champagne Blanc de Blancs Special Club France, Champagne
93 points
Nose: tight, but still expressive nose filled with tones of brioche, lemon zest, mineral tones, crushed rocks, some yeast and orange peels. Though it is on the tighter side, there is a ton of complexity and depth.

Taste: Medium/full bodied with very noticeable medium/high acidity. The structure is extremely big, but has deep tones of brioche, minerals, yeast, and orange peels underneath.

Overall: this can be a monster bubbly with some age. The structure is very big on it and it should reward aging.
2009 Schäfer-Fröhlich Schloßböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Nahe
92 points
Nose: very aromatic with tones of spiced pears, honeysuckle, nectarines, green apples, figs and quince tones. Very good depth with the tones being more on the succulent side.

Taste: Medium/full bodied with medium+ acidity. Very complete and classy with tones of spiced pears, honeysuckle, nectarines, green apples, and figs. Very good depth as well.

Overall: this was a really fun Riesling. Balanced with really good depth on both the nose and palate.
2010 Rivers-Marie Chardonnay B. Thieriot Vineyard USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
82 points
Nose: the nose is dominated by tones of clarified butter along with tones of creams and vanilla.

Taste: medium/full bodied with a lot of butter on the palate. There are some tones of navel oranges and vanilla as well.

Overall: It did balance out a bit with air. It isn't really my style, but it didn't seem great for the style either.
White - Off-dry
2009 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
92 points
Nose: fresh and fragrant tones of pears, green apples, white fruits, florals and notes of papaya. Very nice depth as well.

Taste: medium bodied with medium+ acidity that is pretty refreshing. Good depth with fresh tones of pears, green apples, papayas and white fruits.

Overall: I didn't get an AP # on it. Still, this was a delicious young prum. It has some baby fat it needs to shed and should develop nicely.
2010 Domaine Dublère Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
85 points
Nose: larger and fat nose with tones of pears, oils, honeysuckle, and white fruits. Lacking some depth and there isn't much minerality either.

Taste: medium/full bodied with medium acidity. Kind of clunky on the palate with tones of pears, white fruits, and some oily tones as well.

Overall: if this was blind I never would've guessed it for a Chablis. Even if this is a different style, it didn't really has good depth to it either.
2005 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
93 points
Nose: even with swirling this is on the tight side. Still there are fat and deep tones of marzipan, hot oils, star fruit, and honeydew.

Taste: full bodied with great depth and medium acidity. It's on the bigger side with tones of marzipan, hot oils, star fruit, oranges, and honeydew.

Overall: as with the theme, this is insanely young. It is deep on both the nose and palate. This has all the quality to be a real stunner.
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2009 Maison Ilan Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
90 points
Nose: nice and balanced nose with tones of red fruits, red cherries, spices and some florals as well. The fruit is more noticeable right now, but with still an elegant take.

Taste: medium bodied with a nice and polished feel with m+ acidity. Well balanced with silky tannins and tones of red fruits, cherries and spice tones.

Overall: this is wound tight right now as would be expected for a young red burg. This is nice and elegant with a really good feel already.
2008 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
93 points
Nose: Very aromatic from the get go with tones of roasted game, charcoal, dark red cherries, violets and perfumes. There is nice depth with the nose being very savory as well.

Taste: medium/full body with silky tannins and medium+ acidity. Very well balanced with savory tones of roasted game, charcoal, dark red cherries, and violets.

Overall: this is a wonderful young chave. Shows the meatier side with a real savoriness.
2009 Saxum Syrah Booker Vineyard USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
76 points
nose: completely overblown and over ripe nose with tones of black fruits, oak, black marker tones and lots of liqueur. This wasn't all too enjoyable on the nose.

taste: full bodied with good supporting tannins, but there is a good amount of heat on this as well. Extremely ripe and rich with overblown tones of black fruits, black marker, and lots of oak.

overall: this was far from my cup of tea. I wonder how it will be in the future, but it was over ripe and over blown. Others at the table liked this, I was the opposite.
2009 Sine Qua Non Grenache Upside Down USA, California, Central Coast
93 points
nose: this was very ripe as well, but more pure and balanced with big tones of dark red cherries, red fruits, red berries, red florals and red currants. Very good depth with layering as well.

taste: full bodied with rich, ripe, and pure tones of dark red cherries, red fruits, red currants, and red berry tones. There are good tannins to this with great depth and layering.

overall: Getting to have this twice in a month is very nice. I was fortunate to be able to spend more time with this one than previous. This is a great example of how to do a ripe style right.
2001 Travaglini Gattinara Riserva Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara
92 points
nose: wafting and savory nose filled with tones of roasted herbs, red cherries, wild flowers and some strawberries as well. Very pretty with nice depth as well.

taste: pretty and elegant medium body with medium/high acidity and good tannins. Well balanced with savory tones of roasted herbs, red cherries, wild flowers, tar and some tobacco tones.

overall: this was one of my favorite wines on the evening. While I'm not really sure I'd call it infanticide, it was a utterly lovely and intoxicating wine that has a good ways to go.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2005 Château Suduiraut France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
92 points
nose: while it was on the tight side, there were still beautiful aromatics of nectarines, apricots, white florals, pears and honey tones. Very good depth to it as well.

taste: full bodied with medium+ acidity that was refreshing and noticeable. There is a nice plump quality to the tones of nectarines, apricots, pears and honey tones.

overall: While there's a lot of baby fat to shed, this is still really enjoyable right now. While it's full bodied, it does have a bit of a deft touch to it that shows off some real class.


This was a fun night with the wines all over the map. There were some real good whiles while having some not so good ones. Still, it was impossible not to have fun on the night. I had a blast and look forward to the next tasting whatever it may be.

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