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Visiting Philipponnat

Mareuil-sur-Ay, Champagne

Tasted September 5, 2012 by Antti with 886 views

Introduction

A very informal and enjoyable visit to Champagne Philipponnat in early September. We were hosted by House's PR Manager Nicoletta de Nicolo. Philipponnat is often thought as a producer that has improved immensely since 90s. I don't have experience of their earlier wines but everything I saw, heard and tasted gave me an impression of true quality consciousness. Philipponnat belongs to my personal handful of top Champagne's négociants.

Flight 1 (6 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Philipponnat Champagne Royale Réserve Brut France, Champagne
Very well made and stylish, taken it' Philipponnat's basic NV cuvée. Classic toasty and yeasty apple character, in an elegant form. A good buy, although I personally prefer the non-dosé version of this.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Philipponnat Champagne Royale Réserve Non Dosé France, Champagne
More linear and focused than it's brut sibling, beautiful and mineral. IIRC, this is exactly the same wine as the usual Roayle Réserve, but without the 8gr/l dosage. Pure and tasty.
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Philipponnat Champagne Réserve Rosée France, Champagne
Red fruits and florality, with a crisp acidity. Not very complicated but rather a simply enjoyable rosé, would go nicely as an apéritif.
White - Sparkling
2003 Philipponnat Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée 1522 Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Only very recently released vintage of this cuvée, I think. I was a bit surprised to see that it was 2003 Nicoletta pulled from the fridge, as I had expected we would taste 2002 of which I had heard quite a lot of praise. I must say that I have not been the biggest fan of Champagne vintage 2003 (at least compared to it's predecessor or successor) as many of them feel slightly hot or flabby to my tastes. However, I feel that the 1522 is definitely one of the better efforts of the vintage. It's quite full bodied, structured and, pinot fruit being mostly on the frame. I got the impression that it's still young, and probably has a lot of complexity and added enjoyment to be gained with bottle aging.
White - Sparkling
2002 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses France, Champagne
Considering the reputation of this wine, I was delighted to note that the recently disgorged '02 was already very enjoyable and not closed (it probably helped that the bottle had been opened a bit earlier). Still slightly closed, extremely structured, powerful and mineral. Also showing great class and elegance at the same time! But somehow I managed to enjoy every sip of it. I wouldn't advise against opening one bottle already now, just to see what it's like in its infancy, because I felt it was surprisingly tasty already. A beautiful baby, will achieve grandeur.
White - Sparkling
2001 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses France, Champagne
I must admit being a bit surprised to note that the previous comments were generally not very thrilled. Maybe it's about meeting expectations and 2001 might not be what most people expect from Clos de Goisses. For me, this is a superb effort especially considering the difficulty of the vintage. Surprisingly rich, honeyed and aromatic, this is a Clos de Goisses to be enjoyed young, as opposed to the 2002. This is not particularly full-bodied or powerfully structured, but it's got already a beatiful pale yellow colour and plenty of charm. An underappreciated gem, and a great buy if you happen to need something to remind you of the year.
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