16th Annual Lyon 10 Year Retrospective

Same Old Place

Tasted November 4, 2012 by Grinner with 574 views

Introduction

For the first time ever, we opened Oregon Pinots in this annual event. The bottles were opened but not decanted at least 2 hours before tasting. The bottles were brown bagged and a two person shell game ensued to make sure the tasting was blind and a ringer in 6 of the flights. Ringers were from Burgundy, California, and Italy. The notes I took are dinky because of the speed needed to pour through almost 40 wines.

Flight 1 - Champagnes for arrival (2 notes)

Also brown bagged for your guessing pleasure

White - Sparkling
2002 Ployez-Jacquemart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut France, Champagne
90 points
This stood out for being more crisp, dry, and dominated by chardonnay notes. Very vinous. Excellent, but not the depth and balance of the Bollinger.
White - Sparkling
2002 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année France, Champagne
94 points
This bottle screams "Champagne" with tenor notes of stone fruit, the alto hitting citrus high notes, and the bass singing the breadline. Great balance.
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Flight 2 - Pinot Flight One (5 notes)

Red
2002 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Freedom Hill Vineyard USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
93 points
A great way to start this tasting of 02's. Deep black cherry and plum fruit along with some spice. Very round and smooth. Substantial backbone w/o being overtly tannic. Sediment was notable compared to others. 92 on day 2.
Red
2002 Domaine Marius Delarche Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Vergelesses France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru
85 points
Very lean on the palate. Light red fruit, some mineral notes, and acidity. Stuck out as a ringer. DOA on day 2.
Red
2002 Shea Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Pommard Clone Shea Vineyard USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
90 points
Immediately bigger and more obvious than the previous wine (Burg). Dark cherry fruit and a wet stone note, along w/ lingering tannins stood out from the crowd. 88 on day 2.
Red
2002 Cristom Pinot Noir Mt. Jefferson Cuvée USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
89 points
Just a very nice "typical" OPN w/ great balance. Good fruit berry fruit and medium body. Made people linger. Not particularly deep or complex.
Red
2002 Patricia Green Cellars Pinot Noir Eason Vineyard USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
87 points
Tiny bit of petillance noted. Earthiest wine of the flight. A little cocoa and spice with the red cherry, berry fruit. Not a great bottle.

Flight 3 - Pinot Two (5 notes)

Red
2002 Archery Summit Pinot Noir Archery Summit Estate USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
91 points
Still has a nice dark color w/ deep black fruit. Slightly hot and tannic and almost "smash mouth" (? overextracted) for its age. Fun but not for every Pinot lover. 90 on day 2.
Red
2002 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Elton USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
91 points
Stood out for its ripeness. Black cherry and plum, with a cinnamon note. Long mellow finish. Similar on day two, 91pts.
Red
2002 Adelsheim Pinot Noir Elizabeth's Reserve USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains
88 points
Dark and deep w/ some cocoa and earth notes added to the black fruit. Glycerin/"sweet" component made it stand out a bit. Not "typical" elegant pinot.
Red
2002 Soter Pinot Noir Beacon Hill USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
93 points
A top 3 wine out of 35 in this blind tasting. Deep black cherry fruit with spice and structure and length... and... and. Difficult to leave. 90 on day 2
Red
2002 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Casteel Reserve USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
92 points
Another great wine in this flight. Perhaps the best mouthfeel/ texture. Dusty cherry and some add'l berries went on and on. Even has some backbone still. 91 on day 2.

Flight 4 - Pinot Three (6 notes)

The PG Four Winds was poured as a "bonus" after the disappointing PG Estate

Red
2002 Archery Summit Pinot Noir Red Hills Estate USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
90 points
A decent start to difficult flight. This is even better than a bottle had in '08. Very smooth red fruit and minerals, w/ a hint of smoke. Nice long finish. 89 on day 2.
Red
2002 Penner-Ash Pinot Noir Seven Springs Vineyard USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
flawed
Muted fruit and wet cardboard = TCA
Red
2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos St. Marc France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
87 points
Very mature/ evolved. Lean red fruit and minerals w/ a hint of forest floor / duff. All acid the next day.
Red
2002 St. Innocent Pinot Noir Anden USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
84 points
Medium bodied wine w/ tart cherry berry flavors and good length. Problem: small hit of ethyl acetate picked up by Doyle. Still drinkable for most of us, but NOT TONIGHT w/ so many good wines...
Red
2002 Patricia Green Cellars Pinot Noir Four Winds USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, McMinnville
88 points
Not bad at all for its age. A hint of brick at the rim. Very smooth on the palate with cherry pie, cinnamon/spice and a little earth. Moderate acidity. On plateau.

Flight 5 - Pinot Four (5 notes)

Red
2002 Henry Estate Pinot Noir Barrel Select USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Umpqua Valley
86 points
This was a bit off. Nice texture and decent fruit w/a touch of Madeira and heat.
Red
2002 Penner-Ash Pinot Noir Willamette Valley USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
85 points
A dark wine w/a hint of raisin / Amarone like character to its black fruit. Not "bad", but not great. I know PA's do better than this...
Red
2002 Bergström Pinot Noir Arcus USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
94 points
My WOTN. This has deep black cherry, blackberry fruit w/o being heavy. Spice notes dot the i's and cross the t's. Some notable glycerin adds to the luxurious mouthfeel. Nice backbone and length. 93 on day 2.
Red
2002 Kistler Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
90 points
Deep ripe fruit with some spice, earth, and rose notes. Then the tannins hit MID-palate! This was the only one out of 35 wines to do that this night.
Red
2002 Medici Vineyards Pinot Noir Estate East Block USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
89 points
Medium everything: color, nose, depth, length, and balance. Literally nothing stood out and sometimes that's good! Just a very nice taste o' Pinot.

Flight 6 - Pinot Five (5 notes)

Red
2002 Broadley Vineyards Pinot Noir Claudia's Choice USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
91 points
One of the biggest, most unevolved of the bunch --- and that seems to be the goal at this winery. A dark wine w/ sweet cherry, berry and spice notes. 91 on day 2.
Red
2002 Ken Wright Pinot Noir McCrone Vineyard USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
80 points
So 3 out of four Ken Wrights in this tasting came out ok with their "synth a corks", this one didn't. Not TCA but a bit pruney/ oxidized. Black fruit, plum, and some acidity. You'd drink it if you were stuck w/o back up. We were not stuck...
Red
2002 Bergström Pinot Noir Bergström Vineyard USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
92 points
A great wine with depth and balance and structure. Black cherry, mocha, and earth. Goes on and on. 92+ on day 2.
Red
2002 Bressan Pinot Nero Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
83 points
Doesn't fit in well blind w/ OPN's. It was lean and green. Tart cherries and spice with floral and forest notes. On its own with the right food, maybe...
Red
2002 St. Innocent Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
92 points
May have benefitted from following the Bressan. It has deep cherry, berry, cola, and forest floor notes. Great balance and length.

Flight 7 - Pinot Six (5 notes)

Red
2002 Broadley Vineyards Pinot Noir Marcile Lorraine USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
91 points
Another "baby" from Broadley! A mouthfull of dark fruit supported by sturdy but supple tannins. No change on day 2.
Red
2002 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Guadalupe Vineyard USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
92 points
Bold ripe fruit in a classic well aged wine. Pure pleasure w/ cherry pie, plum, and a touch of earthiness on the backside. 91 on day 2.
Red
2002 Archery Summit Pinot Noir Arcus Estate USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
90 points
A bit overblown compared to others in this tasting, but still an excellent wine (if you don't mind a pinot w/ more testosterone than most). Dark fruits, mocha, tar, and oak are notable. Maybe better the next day, 91.
Red
2002 Hamacher Pinot Noir Oregon USA, Oregon
90 points
Another wine that has held up very well. Black cherry, spice, and earth supported by significant tannins.
Red
2002 Maison Alex Gambal Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
86 points
Another ringer that stood out -- in a not great way. Lean red cherries, minerals/ stone; quite drinkable but may need Hospice soon.

Flight 8 - Pinot Seven (5 notes)

Red
2002 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
90 points
Notable for its velvety texture and a little more grip than most. Red cherries, strawberries, and a floral hit. 89 on day 2.
Red
2002 Brick House Pinot Noir Cuvée du Tonnelier USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
flawed
corked
Red
2002 Shea Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Estate Shea Vineyard USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
93 points
This was in the top 3 for me. Black cherry pie, with all the spices, berries, and some earth were notable. Great depth and structure. 91 on day 2.
Red
2002 Campion Pinot Noir USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
87 points
A bit on the lean and mean side. Tart red fruit with some tannins that seem to be winning. Enjoyable but couldn't compete.
Red
2002 Broadley Vineyards Pinot Noir Estate USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
82 points
This wine was SLIGHTLY corked we think. Just like my pug, this bottle has no nose. The mouthfeel, fruit, and structure were there on the palate.

Flight 9 - Dessert (1 note)

with salted dark chocolate caramels and Oregon Duck cookies

White - Sweet/Dessert
2002 Domaine Jo Pithon Quarts de Chaume Les Varennes France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume
89 points
This wine has the obligate medium gold color with a nose of honeyed stone fruit, some tropical notes, and tart citrus. Medium depth and body. Sweetness is there but not quite the acidity. Every Baumard QdC we've had has been better than this.

Closing

The surprises of the night included:
1. How well the 2002 OPN's are holding up after ten years, we expected more to be pushing daisies.
2. The ringers stood out significantly.
3. How many off bottles there were.
Cheers!
Mark and Denise

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