Fleeting impressions from the Goedhuis tasting

Saatchi Gallery, London SW3

Tasted March 20, 2013 by Rupert with 776 views

Introduction

Walkaround tasting with a little iso glass.

Flight 1 - Hubert Lamy (3 notes)

Expected more of these. The Frionnes has always wowed me in the past, but perhaps this is more serious and takes longer to come round.

White
2011 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Floral. Light. Quite simple at this stage.
White
2010 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Much more substance than the 11. Tangy. Tight.
White
2008 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Sweaty. Not appealing.

Flight 2 - Marc Colin (4 notes)

Another table where I expected more immediate appeal.

White
2009 Marc Colin et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Lean. Powdery. I'd expected more of this.
White
2009 Marc Colin et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
A step up from the St Aubin, but still muted
White
2009 Marc Colin et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
More poeer than the Chevenottes. Fine.
White
2009 Marc Colin et Fils Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Le Charmois France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Lean. Powdery. Not giving much.

Flight 3 - Bruno Colin (3 notes)

White
2008 Bruno Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Ripe, tangy, spicy. Rather warm. Good
White
2008 Bruno Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Fresher than the Morgeot. Nice.
White
2008 Bruno Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
The broadest and most complete of the trio.

Flight 4 - Colin-Deleger (3 notes)

Brave of them to show an 02, but the 09 was the start here.

White
2010 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Tight. Not easy to assess.
White
2009 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Touch of oak. Limey. Deep. Lovely.
White
2002 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Not poxed! Warm and mealy. No zing.

Flight 5 - Jacques Carillon (4 notes)

Very impressive villages here.

White
2011 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Not much to this at this stage.
White
2010 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Much better than the 11. Real energy. Vibrant.
White
2009 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Ampler than the 10. Lots about it. Lovely.
White
2008 Louis Carillon Puligny-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Another delicious villages, midway between the 09 and 10 in style

Flight 6 - Jean-Marc Boillot (5 notes)

These were very good.

White
2009 J.M. Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Nutty, round. Soft, but good.
White
2006 J.M. Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Broad. Spicy oak. Fat. Yum.
White
2004 J.M. Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
A bit of sweat to start, but then fresh, tangy, limey. Yum plus.
White
2002 J.M. Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
String, oaky, powerful
White
2008 Domaine Patrick Javillier Meursault Tête de Murgers Cuvée France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
From magnum. Very simple. So much so that I couldn't be bothered with the other vintages.

Flight 7 - De Courcel (3 notes)

Odd how the 08 was so much more charming than the 07.

Red
2008 Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Broad, red fruited. Open and charming.
Red
2007 Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Surprisingly, in comparison with the 08, this was leaner, with an earthy edge.
Red
2006 Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Some intriguing fragrance here. Herby. Still quite tight.

Flight 8 - Comte Armand (2 notes)

Probably excellent, but these aren't charmers young.

Red
2008 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Tight. Not easy to get at. But not massive or brutal as these can be when young.
Red
2007 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Black fruit and licquorice. Powerful. Lean. Promising.

Flight 9 - Chandon de Briailles (4 notes)

Given a big glass, some age, and close attention, I guess these could be fine. But in this context, thin and charmless.

Red
2009 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru
Pale. Cherryish. Quiet.
Red
2007 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru
Tomato juice. Thin.
Red
2006 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru
Tomato juice again. Similar to the 07.
Red
2005 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru
Very tight. Pale. Lean. Not for today.

Flight 10 - L'Arlot (3 notes)

Interesting to hear Jacques Devauges saying he hadn't changed the wine-making practices since taking over from Olivier Leriche. He seems a nice chap.

Red
2008 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
A bit stinky. Open. Brackeny.
Red
2007 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Sweet core. Lovely persistence. Ripe.
Red
2006 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Tighter. Not closed, but brooding.

Flight 11 - Charles Audoin (4 notes)

Cyril Audoin is an engaging chap and I liked his wines. All made the same way. Quite austere, but fine.

Red
2009 Domaine Charles Audoin Marsannay Les Longeroies France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
Blackcurrants, blood, silky. Nice understated wine.
Red
2009 Domaine Charles Audoin Marsannay Le Clos de Jeu France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
Tighter, more concentrated than the Longeroies. Good.
Red
2009 Domaine Charles Audoin Fixin Le Rozier France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin
Dry, mineral, stony. Love the stoniness on this.
Red
2009 Domaine Charles Audoin Gevrey-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Fuller than the preceding wines, but with an austere green edge.

Flight 12 - Jean Grivot (3 notes)

Not much sign of a softer style here.

Red
2009 Domaine Jean Grivot Nuits St. Georges Les Lavières France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges
Inviting ripe red fruit nose, smoky, surprisingly lean on the palate
Red
2008 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Rouges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Browner than the 09 Lavières, more evolved, more intrigue. Sharp dry finish.
Red
2008 Domaine Jean Grivot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Meatier. More substantial. Quite ripe. Sharp but fine.

Flight 13 - Louis Boillot (4 notes)

What a lot of scattered holdings they have. Surprisingly tight for 07s

Red
2007 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Côte de Nuits Villages France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages
Elusive, weedy nose. Thin.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2007 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Chambolle-Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Much prettier. Some red fruits. Some charm.
Red
2007 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Less expressive. Earthy, grassy. Green and austere.
Red
2007 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
More substantial. Some black fruits. Tight, tart, fine.

Flight 14 - Lambrays (3 notes)

I remember how gorgeous the 06 and 05 were at this event four years ago. The 10 and 09 nowhere near as charming. 06 lovely though. Reminds me of the DRC wines with its savouriness.

Red
2010 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Some green. But fine and balanced.
Red
2009 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Brackeny, austere, green. Is this right?
Red
2006 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Much more developed. Spicy nose. Spicy palate. Super.

Flight 15 - Geantet-Pansiot (3 notes)

Immediate appeal.

Red
2009 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Dark, ripe, voluptuous. Easy, lovely.
Red
2009 Geantet-Pansiot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Lots of oomph. Spicy. Smoky. Super.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2009 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Penetrating nose. A bit more all round. True to form, more masculine. Fresh, energetic. Fabulous.
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