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Burgundy WIMPS 'Col d'Aubisque' table
La Trompette, London
Tasted June 26, 2013 by SimonG with 655 views
Introduction
Well done Trompette. Lovely food, a huge logistical operation to serve 72 people with 720 glasses, and a splendid job was done. I thought the food and the staff were great. Usual thanks to my fellow lunchers - lovely wines and company, and Bravo Trompette.
Flight 1 - Dorset crab and scallop raviolo with lemon verbena (2 notes)
White
2004 Coche-Dury Meursault
93 points
Light to mid yellow. Quite a saline, slightly greengage nose. Ripe on the attack with some pineapple and spicy vanilla. Quite fat at the front, nicely mineral through the mid-palate. A little fat but with salinity on the finish. Slightly riper than previous bottle. Nice Lilley acidity starting to cut through the finish. Fattens up with the food and looses some cut. ****
White
1989 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Chapelot
93 points
Slightly fuller light to mid gold colour cf the Coche's yellow. Iodine on the nose. Fresh and saline on the attack, mid weight, good line and a lovely chalky long finish. Nothing flashy, just complete and proper. Balances a ripe year with Chablis minerality though it is quite wide across the mid-palate rather than long per say. Improves in the glass and holds its line. Just a bit more interest today, though the Coche would be the cellar choice. ****
Flight 2 - Warm salad of yellow beans, shaved foie gras and almonds with home cured bresaola (3 notes)
Red
2007 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis
89 points
Fresh, minerally, red fruited with a nice nasal bite. Very Morey but with an added fragrant strawberry edge. Lighter and more delicate. Good acidity. A little lighter than the Coche alongside. Pretty strawberry fruit, light, maybe a little inconsequential. Very sweet, confiture-like fruit on the nose after a couple of hours. ***
Red
2006 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne
91 points
Darker colour. More dense and darker fruited on the nose. Dark fruited. A nice freshness here and not as reductive toasty rich as the 07 currently. Darker fruit than the other two, bright acidity. More dense. A little more savoury too. Lovely. ****
Red
2007 Coche-Dury Auxey-Duresses Rouge
90 points
Mellow, dustier fruit on the nose, a little softer. Paler colour. Light to middle weight red fruit with a touch of caramel wafer. Good acidity. A leanness on the finish. Similar in profile to the Dujac but a little less clean and polished, more sauvage. More intent. ***1/2
Flight 3 - Roast rump of new season's lamb with creamed potato, summer turnip and glazed carrots (3 notes)
Red
2001 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts
95 points
Full, deep garnet. Sweet-fruited nose. A touch of caramel. Mellow. Initially a little subdued on the nose, but really opens up. Rich and plush, velvety, becoming silkier with air. Time in hand. Possibly just a hint of dryness on the finish but this is really lovely and impressive too. *****
Red
2001 Domaine de la Vougeraie Bonnes Mares
90 points
Meatier, more expressive on the nose initially than the Leroy. A little lactic. Quite full. A little tight however, linear on the palate. Quite a tight dry finish. Not playing today. Coincidentally I had a bottle of this a few months ago that was lusher and more open, but which I ended p decanting halfway tough for sediment and it closed up just like this one appears to be. Come back in five years plus. A little muddy and diffuse now. Closed. **(*1/2) with upside?
Red
2000 Domaine Ponsot Chapelle-Chambertin
94 points
Again, more savoury on the nose initially. Darker fruit with almost a touch of liquorice. Sweet fruited, lush, pretty, silky rather than velvety. Just lovely now. Very fragrant, verging on the ethereal. My pick for drinking today though the Leroy is the one for the cellar. Just as lovely as the bottle at Leon's bash last month. ****1//2
Flight 4 - Tarte fine of white onion and savoury with aged gruyere (2 notes)
Red
1995 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
92 points
Slightly pruney initially, though the nose seems to clear up and focus with air. Seems quite cool, so quite focused on the palate. Sorts itself out with air and begins to show less evolved and every bit as good as the bottle at Bryan's recent Volnay bash. Fresher and longer than the Roumier albeit not quite the plushness across the front. Perks up nicely and showing well. ***(*)
Red
1990 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Clos Vougeot
88 points
Quite 1990 on the nose. A browny slightly muddy garnet colour. Quite pruny and leathery. Sweet fruited, quite round on the attack. All front and no middle/finish. Just too diffuse and a little over-ripe, not lasting the course. I don't see any upside here if this is representative. ***
Closing
Two lovely whites, the Raveneau my pick for today, but the Coche for tomorrow. Of the reds, the Ponsot today and the Leroy for today or the next x years in the cellar.