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Awesome Dinner with Friends (Erasmus, SQN, Saxum, Pride, Dehlinger++)

Out and about

Tasted January 12, 2014 by Loren Sonkin with 619 views

Introduction

Last night, my wife and I invited three other couple who did not know each other but loved food and wine, to join us at the chef table of a favorite hang out. Some of us brought the wine while the others picked up the tab. While we love wine, we love introducing our diverse friends to each other spreading the joys of dinner like this as it were. This dinner was no exception. The wines were amazing, but outdone by the food, but the highlight was the conversation and fun we all had.

The wines were arranged in courses and we let the chef match them expertly to the courses. The meal was set up for vegetarians or omnivores (although I think the meat eaters were staggered by the breadth and depth of the food). The wines were mostly opened and allowed to breathe at home for 6 to 12 hours).

Flight 1 - Rose Champagne (2 notes)

We started this as we stood around and talked. Then we sat down for "Devils on Horseback" appetizers which were dates wrapped in either bacon or thinly sliced "veg bacon" with almonds, cured chillis and onion soubaise. I have no idea what soubaise is, but these things were great and worked well with the Champers. Then we went on to toasted bread with a sampling of three different olive oils from a private grove in Trentino from the 2013 vintage. Nice.

Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Dosnon Champagne Recolte Rose France, Champagne
90 points
Pale rose/copper colored in the glass. Thick mousse with small bubbles. Lots of strawberries on the nose. Slight lemon note. Slightly sweet on the attack. Finish is abrupt. This is very nice. Worked better once we had some food.
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Philipponnat Champagne Réserve Rosée France, Champagne
92 points
Deeper rose color. The nose has cherries and toast. Lots of smaller bubbles. Clean and lean but plenty of fruit and complexity. Long finish. The better of the two bubblies tonight IMO. It had a nice streak of acidity that worked really well as we sat down to dinner.

Flight 2 - Dehlinger Chardonnay Estate Bottled Vertical (3 notes)

With XO styled beets which were roast and diced with BBQ apple and peaches, vanilla and topped with toasted quinoa seeds.

White
2007 Dehlinger Chardonnay USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
92 points
Golden color. The nose is creamy with lemons and vanilla. Ripe fruit on the palate. Complex and layered as it unwinds in the glass. Nice balance. The is a big round wine and there is still oak, but it melds with the fruit. Needs a couple of more years.
White
2008 Dehlinger Chardonnay USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
90 points
The crowd seemed to like this best (a plurality). This is the leanest of the three with a strong streak of acidity. There seems to be less fruit making the oak stand out. It was on the edge for me, but I think another 5 years and this will be even better. There is fruit here, lemons and other citrus.
White
2009 Dehlinger Chardonnay USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
90 points
Lots of potential here, but needs more time for my tastes. Robust vanilla curd on the nose. Plenty of lemons and oak on the palate. It is the softest of the three wines, and I think the shortest lived, but still another couple of years to settle and become cohesive is warranted. Others really liked this as I think it is more "classic Cali Chard" at the moment.

Flight 3 - Grenache from around the world (3 notes)

Served with either Foi Gras Steamed Clams or Veggie Burger brioche with rice & Beans, cheddar and a pickle (the veggie burger was colored red with beet juice).

Red
2007 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Chaupin France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
95 points
Really nice showing for this wine, but it was outclassed in the flight. Purple in color. The nose has black raspberries, red raspberries, floral and spice notes. Chris thought he detected an oxidized note, though I did not (I am not as sensitive to this). On the palate, this is juicy and still young. Later in the evening, this seemed to be unwinding a bit. No hurry at this point. Clean. Just a delicious wine.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Clos Erasmus Priorat Spain, Catalunya, Priorat
99 points
Couldn't quite get to 100 on this, but this is a WOW wine. My first time trying this exalted vintage. The nose is beautiful. Perfumed and pretty. So feminine. Raspberries, a bit of charred wood, violets. On the palate, this is much bigger. So smooth and integrated. I would think a couple of years from peak perhaps. Powerful with raspberries and some strawberries and a slight ash note. Going back for a fresh pour at the end of the night, this had opened even more and was showing great complexity. At that point I almost changed my score to 100, but I had put the pen down by then. An almost unanimous WOTN.
Red
2006 Sine Qua Non Grenache Raven Series USA, California
97 points
Really outstanding but coming after the Clos Erasmus, its differences were evident. This is a brute right now. Big with black raspberries, peppery, lavender, saddle leather on the nose. At first I thought I brought the Syrah, but it was the Grenache. On the palate, for all the jammy fruit, it is smooth and deft. Long finish. This kept opening all night as well. Needs a few more years, but it pretty special right now.

Flight 4 - Pride Mountian Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical (3 notes)

The chef threw a softball sized hunk of black truffle and a golf ball sized white truffle on a cutting board in front of us. After we properly bowed down in homage to it, he used it liberally on a Semolina Pasta with salsify, celery, celeriac and black truffle, and a Faro Past with Lamb shanks. That was followed by the most amazing Risotto all'onda with saved truffles and a Buttermilk & Brassica with sable fish.

Red
2001 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon USA, California, Napa Valley
94 points
My last bottle of a bunch of these. This is still a big, young wine and not yet at peak. It keep developing. The nose is cassis, slight cedar, a bit of rosemary. Great lush texture. Still some firm tannins. Showing tight layering on the palate. Slight heat on the midpalate, but finishes beautifully. One of those Napa wines that will drink well on its 20th birthday and beyond. I remember a lot of people questioning if the oak would outlast the fruit. That is not the case, there is still some oak here, but a lot more fruit.
Red
2003 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon USA, California, North Coast, Napa / Sonoma
89 points
I can't remember if Bob Foley was still here for this or not. I think so, but not sure. This was the weakest of the flight. Slight funk on the nose (brett?). The fruit was a bit muted but some cases. On the palate, it lacks the complexity of the other wines. It is nice. Shows some heat on the finish. Chris bought this at retail so who knows how it was cared for, but I think it is what it is.
Red
2009 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon USA, California, North Coast, Napa / Sonoma
92 points
I think Sally J was the winemaker by now (not sure), but this is really nice. It is a much softer, less powerful, less oaked wine than the 01. A nose of cassis and dark cherries. complex on the palate although tightly layered. Long smooth finish. Food friendly.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 5 - 2010 Paso Robles Syrah (plus 1) (4 notes)

Served with a Cassoulet of Tofu with tomato, crunchies, and cannellini, and Ohio Beef at 40 day Pomme Dauphine - Buerre Rouge, and Short Ribs, and some other Flintstones looking meat dish (my wife and I are vegetarians, and I forgot to write down what the others were eating).

Red
2010 SonkinCellars Persona USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
I know this is my wine, but it was out muscled in this flight. (that's ok with me, it is not in the same price range either). Not by a lot and it held its own. This got some air but still needed more. A few years from peak. The nose is showing some complexity. It is a meaty Syrah but not monster wine that the Saxum, Denner and Torrin are (that is by design).
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2010 Saxum Broken Stones USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
95 points
This is about 63% Syrah IIRC, so it just barely fit the them. This is a big wine. The nose is great with raspberries, black raspberries, white pepper and slight candied notes. Great lovely slick but full texture. On the palate, this is ripe and slightly sweet red fruit. Very smooth. Of course young, but showing depth and complexity. Great wine.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2010 Denner The Dirt Worshipper USA, California, Central Coast
96 points
Wow. My first time trying this wine IIRC. Wow. The nose is big but not over powering. Ripe black raspberries, Framboise, black pepper and a bit of wet, moist earth. On the palate, this is smooth and complex. Lush, lush texture. Great red and purple fruit. Nice balance. Long finish. Everyone's favorite fro this flight it seemed.
2 people found this helpful Comments (1)
Red
2010 Torrin Akasha USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
95 points
This thing is a brute. It is backward and in need of a lot of cellaring. This is not for wimps. Inky purple in color. The nose has black raspberries, leather, black pepper, and clay. On the palate, it starts as a wall of purple fruit. As you drink it, it is hard to see the murky depths. With air and time, it starts to show complexity and a bit of deftness that wasn't there at the beginning. This needs at least 5 years and probably more, but I think it will eventually be amazing. For those who like them young, this is still truly outstanding right now. It is over powering but delicious.
3 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 6 - Dessert (2 notes)

Roasted Rittman Apple pain d'epice-root beer, Opera Torte with pumpkin brown butter, and an éclair.
finished with a cheese tray of various cheese.

White - Sweet/Dessert
2009 Bedrock Wine Co. Sémillon Lachryma Montis, Botrytized Old Vine Monte Rosso Vineyard USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
92 points
This is really nice. The nose is floral with some honey. Pretty. On the palate, sweet but not cloying. Enough acidity to work with dessert. Nice finisher.
White - Fortified
N.V. Château d'Arlay Macvin du Jura Vin de liqueur macvin France, Jura, Macvin du Jura
90 points
After reading CT notes, I gave this around12 hours of air. On opening, it did indeed smell like a chemical factory. Light golden in color. The nose is a combination of paint thinner, bitters and orange zest. But in a cool way. On the palate, this is smooth with some citrus, blood oranges?, and alcohol. Slightly nutty as well. Worked very well with some cheeses. Fun wine. Next time at least 24 hours of air.

Closing

Sure, nights like this are over the top and hedonistic. But every once in a while it fun to treat yourself. And as I said, the best part is just sitting with friends, realizing how luck we are and being able to enjoy it! Hope to be able to do it again (but not right away ;-) ).

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