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2011 spring auction in Kloster Eberbach (Eberbach Abbey)

Kloster Eberbach, Rheingau

Tasted February 26, 2011 by Vintomas with 470 views

Introduction

The spring auction in Kloster Eberbach only features wines from Hessische Staatsweingüter/Kloster Eberbach. Most wines have been tasted twice, in the morning pre-auction tasting and during the auction. When my impression was more-or-less the same, I've combined them into one tasting note. When different (happened only for one wine this time), I've written two separate notes.

Flight 1 - Red wines (6 notes)

Red
2009 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Frühburgunder trocken Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
86 points
Nose with dark and red cherries, noticeably spicy, some oak, a hint of tar - a clearly fruity nose, slightly flowery. Palate with raspberries and dark cherries, good acidity, a hint of sweetness, medium bodied, medium tannins, some oak bitterness. The nose is slightly better than the palate. 86-87 p.
Red
2009 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
89 points
Nose with cherries, herbs, mint, spice, undergrowth, slightly flowery, slightly sweetish nose, and typical "German Spätburgunder" notes. The palate is slightly more than medium bodied, with cherries, spice, some alcoholic fire, noticeable but well integrated medium tannins, good acidity, and a long spicy aftertaste. 89-90 p.
This wine was much more "Pinot-serious" than the 2009 Frühburgunder at the same auction.
A very good wine, but pleasantly enough I found the regular non-auction version - 2009 Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken 2009 - to be almost as good when I tasted it after the auction; I scored it 88-89 p, showing how very good the 2009 vintage is for Spätburgunder!
Red
2009 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder Auslese Trocken Goldkapsel "Mauerwein" Germany, Rheingau
90 points
Concentrated nose with ripe dark cherries, slightly sweetish impression, undergrowth, spice, some oak, bitter almond notes; a very serious nose. Palate with sweetish fruit, full-bodied, concentrated cherry aromas, some alcoholic fire, well integrated medium tannins, good acidity; spicy and fiery aftertaste. Impressive concentration, very young, needs time. 90-91 p.
Came across as more alcoholic than the 2009 Spätlese trocken Goldkapsel, but both are labelled 14%. Definitely an extreme style. This wine is produced from grapes growing on the vines closes to the stone walls of the terraces in Höllenberg, thus the designation "Mauerwein".
Red
1971 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder Spätlese Germany, Rheingau
82 points
Here, there seemed to be a rather substantial bottle variation between the tasting in the morning and the afternoon. This is the morning tasting note.
Nose with decaying leaves, some dungheap and leather, slightly sweetish malt nose. Off-dry on the palate, slightly less than medium bodied, malt, mild spices, some dried red berries, good acidity, not very concentrated aromas. 82-83 p?
1970s vintage and no "trocken" designation means an off-dry wine, also for red wines.
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Red
1971 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder Spätlese Germany, Rheingau
85 points
Here, there seemed to be a rather substantial bottle variation between the tasting in the morning and the afternoon. This is the afternoon tasting note.
Afternoon: More berry notes in both nose and palate, the same mature notes but of a milder version, smoke, the sweetness not as disturbing as in the morning, some mint, felt more balanced. 85-86 p.
1970s vintages and no "trocken" designation means an off-dry wine, also for red wines. These off-dry Spätburgunder wines are really produced in a completely different style than the reds of today, and I don't think that the old style would find that many enthusiasts today. This wine has peaked quite some time ago, and with this lack of concentration I could only see it go further downhill. The bottle variation (morning tasting note: 82-83 p?) is a troubling sign and I recall being more impressed when I tasted this wine some 5-6 years earlier.
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Red
1961 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder Cabinet Rheingau Germany, Rheingau
83 points
Old Tawny colour. In the nose decaying leaves, dungheap, spice, some malt. Rather similar to the 1971 Spätburgunder Spätlese (of the same auction tasting) in the nose, but less sweetish and more intense. The palate is dry and slight fiery, with mint and spice aromas, good acidity and some bitterness. Not much of fruit notes and somewhat thin on the palate, so the alcohol unfortunately comes through a bit much. The nose is the rewarding part of this wine, 83-84 p.
This bottle had a difficult cork, but I don't think that affected too much. I can't be entirely sure, though.
Of course, it is much more fascinating to taste a wine of this age than my score (based on what I found in the glass without giving concessions to the label) indicates.

Flight 2 - Dry Riesling (7 notes)

White
2009 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Bensheimer Kalkgasse Riesling Kabinett trocken Germany, Hessische Bergstraße
86 points
Riesling-typical nose, some herbs, good acidity, dry (but not entirely bone dry), a hint of bitterness, medium bodied. 86-87 p.
White
2009 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Kabinett trocken Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
87 points
Riesling-typical nose with some honey, good acidity, medium bodied, some menthol notes, mineral, a tiny hint of bitterness. 87-88 p.
White
2008 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Bensheimer Kalkgasse Riesling Kabinett trocken Goldkapsel Germany, Hessische Bergstraße
85 points
Citrus, menthol, emerging developed aromas compared to the 2009s, less than medium bodied, not as concentrated as the 2009s, good acidity, citrus, dry, a hint of bitterness. 85-86 p.
White
2008 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Rauenthaler Baiken Riesling Kabinett trocken Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
87 points
Riesling perfume and emerging development, some honey, menthol, mineral, good acidity, good concentration, a hint of bitterness, dry. 87-88 p.
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White
2006 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Heppenheimer Steinkopf Riesling Spätlese Trocken Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
86 points
Menthol, herbs, mineral, some development, good acidity, some bitterness, some green notes, medium bodied. Comes across as rather typical for 06. 86-87 p.
White
2007 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Heppenheimer Steinkopf Riesling Spätlese Trocken Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
86 points
Riesling perfume, some hints of development, some herbs, mineral, the most elegance in the nose of the first six dry wines. Slightly less than medium bodied, mineral, a hint of herbs, good acidity, some bitterness (that reduces my score). 86-87 p.
White
2007 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Rauenthaler Baiken Riesling Spätlese Trocken Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
89 points
The nose is very Riesling-typical, but the "baby fat" is gone, slightly perfume, honey, herbs, mineral, and a hint of oak. The palate is slightly more than medium bodied, again honey and herbs, yellow apple, good acidity, long aftertaste (where the alcohol can be felt a tiny bit) with herbs and mineral. Rather ready to drink, but should be able to take a long time of additional cellaring. 89-90 p.
Raised in young oak (Stückfass, 1200 liter barrels) and bottled after 18 months, in June 2009. The small oak note was detectable if one know what too search for, but it didn't disturb in this case.

Flight 3 - Dry Chardonnay (1 note)

White
2003 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Chardonnay Trocken Germany, Rheingau
85 points
Nose with honey, yellow apples, some spice, well integrated oak; a nose that reminds me of Chablis with emerging maturity. The palate is medium bodied, a hint of alcoholic fire, with yellow apples, herbs (but another herbaceous note than the dry Riesling wines of the same tasting), some oak bitterness. The nose is better than the palate, which doesn't stick together 100%. The acid is less fresh and less present than in a Chablis of the corresponding style. 85-86 p.
Chardonnay from Rheingau and the hot 2003 vintage - talk about odd! The vines grow in Rauenthaler Gehrn, as I recall.

Flight 4 - Off-dry Riesling (Kabinett and Spätlese) (9 notes)

White
2009 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Kabinett Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
87 points
Riesling-typical nose with perfume and honey. Medium bodied, off-dry, OK concentration of aromas, pure aromas, some mineral. 87-88 p.
White
2006 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Kabinett Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
87 points
Light golden colour. Slightly developed nose, honey, yellow apple, an almost Auslese-like nose. The palate has "Spätlese sweetness", honey, a hint of botrytis, rather good acidity, some spice, a hint of bitterness, a bit disjointed palate. 87-88 p.
This one shows some 2006-typical character with a hint of bitterness and some "non-balance" on the palate, but those features are not too disturbing in the case. Its style is more of a "Spätlese Goldkapsel", i.e., quite high sweetness for a Kabinett.
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White - Off-dry
2009 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel Auction "Mauerwein" Germany, Rheingau
89 points
In the nose quite a lot of mineral, honey, Riesling-perfume, a typical nose. In the palate is is semi-sweet and "Auslese-styled", with honey, peach, good acidity, and mineral, 89-90 p.
This "Mauerwein" (Mauer = wall) was produced by grapes growing on the vines that grow directly at the wall in the Steinberg vineyard. The Mauerwein Spätlese is often rather Auslese-like, and this is definitely the case in the 2009 vintage.
White - Off-dry
2007 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel Auction "Mauerwein" Germany, Rheingau
88 points
Nose with mineral, noticeably herbaceous, emerging development, a very elegant nose that is unusally little "sweetish". The palate is off-dry, with good acidity, mineral, herbs, some honey, peach, yellow apple. Elegant, restrained and balanced. Could possibly be headed for a "dumb phase". 88-89 p.
White - Off-dry
2001 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
88 points
Elegant nose, citrus, perfume, some petroleum, and mineral. The palate is semi-sweet, some notes of maturity, good (but not really high) acidity, spice, yellow apple, some dried fruit. 88-89 p.
White - Off-dry
2001 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
88 points
In the nose citrus, petroleum, mineral, noticeably developed, elegant. On the palate off-dry+, very fresh acidity, honey, citrus, developed notes. 88-89 p.
Not a Mauerwein as far as I understand (it was not branded as such in the auction catalogue), but stil an auction version Spätlese since it is a Goldkapsel.
White - Off-dry
1999 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
87 points
Noticeably developed nose, petroleum, slightly smoky, spicy with dried fruit. Much "older" nose than the 2001 Steinberger Spätlese Goldkapsel of the same flight. On the palate off-dry, noticeably spicy, some bitterness, dried fruit, rather good acidity. Fully mature, unlikely to improve. 87-88 p.
I can't really consider this wine completely Schlossberg-typical. Schlossberg should yield wines with more elegance, mineral and acidity than this. It could be the vintage playing in. In this case, the wine felt more spicy, as if it was from e.g. a Hochheim vineyard.
White - Off-dry
2006 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Rauenthaler Baiken Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
88 points
In the nose beginning development, honey, botrytis, yellow apple. The palate is semi-sweet, with a lot of honey, botrytis, some dried apricots, fresh acidity, some 06-typical "disjointedness". Comes across as an Auslese Goldkapsel in weight. 88-89 p.
Another typical 06, both in its notes and that is bottled with an unusual "weight" for its Prädikat.
White - Off-dry
1971 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Heppenheimer Centgericht Riesling Spätlese Germany, Rheingau
85 points
Rather smoky and malty nose with "firne" (old wine note). Off-dry palate, rather noticeable bitterness, noticeably development, smoky with some dried berries, not too concentrated fruit. 85-86 p.
Has most likely passed its peak. I.e., a bit less impressive than the bottle tasted the evening before.

Flight 5 - Sweet Riesling (Auslese to Trockeenbeerenauslese) (9 notes)

White - Off-dry
2001 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
90 points
Honey, botrytis, Riesling perfume, citrus, mineral, an impressive nose. Semi-sweet on the palate, medium bodied+, good concentration of aromas, citrus, peach, some dried apricots, good acidity, mineral. Very pure aromas, still young. 90-91 p.
This wine shows the style I expect from Schossberg.
White - Off-dry
1986 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Rauenthaler Baiken Riesling Auslese Germany, Rheingau
87 points
Nose with winter apples, some petroleum, smoky notes and spice. Semi-sweet on the palate, honey, winter apples, dried apricots, noticeably spicy, noticeably developed, OK acidity, perhaps some botrytis note? 87-88 p.
Intresting enough, it is not older in its aromas than the 1999 Spätlese from Schlossberg.
White - Off-dry
2005 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
91 points
In the nose honey, Riesling perfume, peach, apricot, emerging development, some botrytis. On the palate "Beerenauslese sweet", very great concentration, apricots, botrytis, good acidity, spicy. 91-92 p.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2001 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Beerenauslese Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
92 points
Honey, botrytis, mineral, hints of herbaceous notes, some development, a big nose. On the palate somewhat more than "Beerenauslese sweet" (almost like a TBA), concentrated honey notes, apricots, very fresh acidity. A big wine. Young, but drinkable now. 92-93 p.
Tasted from half bottle.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1991 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Rauenthaler Baiken Riesling Eiswein Germany, Rheingau
91 points
Deep golden colour, in the direction of amber. Developed note with malt and some firne, petroleum, dried fruit, spice. On the palate "Beerenauslese sweet", very fresh and high acidity, noticeable spice, a lot of honey, dried yellow fruit. Good aftertaste, Eiswein-typical palate. The palate is better than the nose. 91-92 p.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1981 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Eiswein Germany, Rheingau
90 points
Amber/dark golden colour. Very developed nose, somewhat madeirised, slightly smoky, somewhat spicy, some leather, some dried fruit. The palate is sweet (at Beerenauslese level), with good acidity, honey, noticeable spice, dried yellow fruit, good length and good concentration of aromas. The palate is better than the nose. 90-91 p.
This wine wine probably carries an additional Prädikat (most likely Auslese Eiswein or Beerenauslese Eiswein) since this was the case before 1982, but the auction catalogue didn't indicate which one and I forgot to check the bottles we were served from.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1991 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Heppenheimer Centgericht Riesling Eiswein Domäne Bergstrasse Germany, Hessische Bergstraße
91 points
In the nose malt, some "firne" (old wine note), petroleum, some perfume, dried fruit, honey, and spice. On the palate "Beerenauslese sweet", spicy, a great concentration of honey, dried berries, zest, good acidity, some botrytis impression. 91-92 p.
Somewhat sweeter and perhaps a little less "typical Eiswein" than the Rheingau Eisweins of the same flight, but a good, spicy style.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2009 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Heppenheimer Centgericht Riesling Eiswein Domäne Bergstrasse Germany, Hessische Bergstraße
93 points
Powerful honey nose, some spice, dried apricots, Riesling perfume. The nose reminds me rather much of noble rot (botrytised) wine. On the palate more than "Beerenauslese sweet", with dried apricots, spice, good and high acidity, great concentration, good length. 93-94 p.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2007 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Germany, Rheingau
94 points
In the nose dried apricots, botrytis, great nose with powerful concentration. The palate is more(!) than "Trockenbeerenauslese sweet", with an enormous concentration, dried apricots, botrytis, very good acidity, some spice, and a long and pleasant aftertaste. A truly great wine. Young, but could be consumed now by those who are impatient. 94-95 p.
Tasted from half bottle.
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