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Benvenuto Brunello - Toronto 2014
Toronto, ON
Tasted March 10, 2014 by Wine Canuck with 654 views
Introduction
This was a very nice event featuring many excellent producers. It was a great window into the 2009. 2008 and 2007 vintages with a smattering of older wines as well.
Flight 1 - Il Poggione (3 notes)
Disclaimer: I am predisposed to loving Il Poggione. For me everything is just in the right place. Usually an excellent balance of red fruit, dark fruit, sweat/saline, leather, undergrowth, freshness, acid and tannin. All just right.
Red
2012 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Rosso di Montalcino
90 points
This wine features a really lovely nose of lightly candied spiced dark cherries, herbs and light roast coffee. Palate enters on sweet dark cherries, turning to perfectly ripe sweet tannin. A touch of vanilla on the finish is perhaps a bit concerning, but this is very nice and invites further sips.
Red
2009 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino
92 points
Pours ruby at the core with the classic brown/orange bricking at the edges, a typical and traditional colour. Begins with a touch of volatility and a potpourri and sundried tomato note. Plenty of spiced red and dark cherry, saliene, but fairly clean, not much funk. Alcohol is a touch elevated but not concerning. Palate is nicely built on lots of slightly sour acid and only moderate tannin. Finish is medium almost pushing long, on sour red cherries, red currants, and old oak notes. Another nice bottle from Il Poggione.
Red
2007 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli
96 points
I am right on board with Galloni here. Today this might be slightly short of classic but everything is there for this to become a legend, so let's peg it at 96+. Archetypal Brunello. Pours just a hair darker than the 09 normale tasted prior. Lots of saliene, and sweaty leather notes to start, a fairly rustic expression. With swirling the dark and red cherry fruit emerges but is still kept so fresh. All kinds of baking spice, dusty earth, exotic spice, dried and fresh florals are found as the wine is given more time. The palate is even better: abundant sweet tannin, dark cherries for days with a mouthwatering tartness, and all kind of root beer spice on the magnificent finish that goes on for minutes. I was really taken by this wine.
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Comment
Flight 2 - Tenuta Col d'Orcia (4 notes)
While neither Normale really knocked my socks off I feel that the Riserva Poggio al Ventos are special wines. They are actually quite open and nice today but will undoubtedly improve for many years. If only they were under $100.
Red
2006 Tenuta Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino
92 points
I found this to be a fairly classic expression. Nose is on the more meaty, fleshy side. Notes of leather and decaying leaves put this in perhaps a more early maturing style. May not be for the long haul though still nice today. Palate is quite tannic and puckeringly tart and acidic with a distinct mineral note on the finish. Actually quite nicely done.
Red
2006 Tenuta Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento
94 points
Comparing the nose to the normale from this vintage it seems to be headed just a touch into vanilla oak town. Of course this should integrate and is likely indicative of this wines youth. It is pleasurable today and could merit a few more points with time as there is obviously long term aging potential here. Some mineral and saline components are also evident on the nose. Fruit is in check with typical red and dark cherries. The integration of the oak is the only question mark for me here that could determine whether this becomes a legend or simply a very good example.
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Comment
Red
2004 Tenuta Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento
95 points
Wow! A great showing. Tar, pipe tobacco, scorched earth, decaying leaves, sweat, saline, and a really big abundant dark cherry expression. Nicely developed and still more to come I'm sure. Palate is shows harmonious integration and great concentration with everything in the right place. Sweet cherries, lots of sour acid, and round smooth velvet tannin. Excellent.
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Comment
Red
1997 Tenuta Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino
87 points
A disappointment as this was the oldest wine being served at the tasting. Hard for me to like as it felt a bit oxidized and/or over the hill. Notes of raisins, prunes, lacquered wood, old furniture, decayed leaves and compost pile. I'm sure others may appreciate this more than me.
Flight 3 - Tenuta Caparzo (4 notes)
Considered a traditionalist and deservedly so, mostly due to allowing the wild, rustic, volatile side to shine. This time around I found several of these to show lovely nebbiolo like character with tea and tar. I am a fan and was very impressed in particular with the Vigna La Casa.
Red
2011 Tenuta Caparzo Rosso di Montalcino
90 points
Classic Tuscan nose, actually quite stinky. Nose of sweaty sneakers, old gym bag, lavender, orange pekoe tea, tar, a little bit of rubber and plastic, combine with mixed dark and red berries. Not for everybody but I actually find it nice. As some stink blows off this almost becomes a bit Barolo like with the tea and tar notes. The unstructured soft, lightly sweet, palate repeats the tea notes on the pleasant finish.
Red
2009 Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino
flawed
Mute nose with slight hints of some raisins and dates. Unsound bottle? Didn't want to waste time discussing the apparent flaw.
Red
2008 Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa
94 points
Wow another head turner! I have always thought of Caparzo as traditional but often unexciting, this is the first I've had that has wowed me. Nose prominently features tea and tar, again a tad Barolo like. Fruit seems to be in the dark cherry and plum spectrum. Palate has a big, fat lushness about it that is pleasant with a long black tea-like finish. Quite shockingly nice.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2006 Tenuta Caparzo Moscadello di Montalcino
91 points
This is less vin santo like than other examples placing more emphasis on freshness and less on oxidation. There is some, but overall not a lot of oxidation is evident. Nose blasts peaches in syrup, apricot, orange pekoe tea, brown peach pit and earth notes. Palate is sweet and viscus, bordering on cloying, but okay by me (tech sheet says 100g/l, which seems about right), with just enough acid to balance. Finish is moderate with some bitterness.
Flight 4 - Capanna (4 notes)
I'm still not convinced by Capanna. All of the reds poured a fair bit darker than any of the other producers I tasted. They must have some combination of: higher ripeness at picking, more extraction, and less oxidation than their peers. Capanna is a supposed traditionalist, yet many remark at how unevolved they are at release. To me this is a sign of some modern practices. Call it what you will subjectively, but objectively they were the only wines I tasted today that I noticed an alcohol level of 15% or more.
Red
2009 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino
88 points
The nose seems a bit closed in, but with swirling raisins, tar, and alcohol emerged. Certainly seems to be to be a bit modern. I'm not saying their winemaking necessarily is, but the wine itself feels that way to me. Palate is dense, dark and ripe with high alcohol. Finish is a touch short at this stage. Maybe it will all shake out with time, but I'm skeptical at this point, given my experiences.
Red
2008 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino
88 points
Also aromatically challenged. Tight. Hints of raisins, blackberry and licorice. Palate again is quite tannic, evidently lacking in acid, and clearly high in alcohol. Medium to short finish with some redeeming tea notes. Didn't love this either.
Red
2006 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
89 points
Slightly more open and more appealing than the previous two, but that's still not saying much. High toned vanilla and alcohol on the nose. Almost Amarone like. Palate reveals dates, alcohol, lots of tannin, and again insufficient acid. Sadly for a Riserva the finish was quite short.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2010 Capanna Moscadello di Montalcino
93 points
Wow! This is Capanna's redeeming wine for me! Best Moscadello of the day. In the more fresh, less oxidative style. Nose and palate features cold orange pekoe tea, orange peel, nectarine, apricot, saffron and pineapple in syrup. Fantastically long finish. Excellent.
Flight 5 - Fattoria dei Barbi (2 notes)
While rarely stunning, this producer nicely has very low extraction keeping things quite fresh. I have usually found them quite traditional and today was no exception.
Red
2011 Fattoria dei Barbi Rosso di Montalcino
89 points
Fresh off the heels of Capanna we have the polar opposite: back to a firm traditionalist. The colour and extraction could not be any more opposite. Nose of pure fresh red fruit, brown spice and soil. Palate is fairly light with soft dusty tannins and a fresh red red currant finish. Not a wine you'll get tired of.
Red
2008 Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino
92 points
While not an earth shattering wine I love the style it is in. On the nose a touch of (french) horse stable Brett initially which added for me, but certainly would detract for others. In any case it did blow off a touch, though lovely notes of cured meats and tobacco remained. Very light in color. Fruit is on the red cherries and red currant side of things. The light palate has some very bitter and sour notes. I quite like this but again, others may find it off-putting. The finish falters a bit, only lasting medium in length at best. Not at all a tiring wine to drink, would be awesome with food.
Flight 6 - Canalicchio di Sopra (2 notes)
Nice wines with traditional flair. I've not had much experience with this producer and was pleasantly surprised.
Red
2011 Canalicchio di Sopra Rosso di Montalcino
88 points
Pours fairly light, even a bit bricked for this young wine. A touch reductive via prominent rubber notes. Underneath that: dark lightly candied cherries and licorice. Palate is pleasant repeating the nose. Passable, but not a great example.
Red
2009 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino
91 points
This wine strikes me as middle of the road, maybe leaning a bit traditional. Pours with a ruby core and some orange and brick toward the edges. Note is maturing with meaty grilled mushroom notes but also sweet dark cherries in syrup. Palate has adequate acid and elevated tannin. It finishes a bit drying and touch short. Still a wine of respectable quality all in all.
Flight 7 - Castello Banfi (4 notes)
The supposed modernist, on this day they had out some dreadfully modern Rossos, but half-decent Brunellos.
Red
2012 Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino
80 points
Worst wine of the tasting from my vantage point. Severely candied and medicinal. Cherry cough syrup. Really not for me. Palate is worse, so medicinal. Tastes like sweet cherry cough syrup.
Red
2011 Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura
82 points
Tastes and smells identical to the previously tasted Banfi Rosso, but with added vanilla extract. Still severely candied and medicinal.
Red
2008 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino
89 points
Getting closer to what a red from Montalcino should taste like. Showing relatively more interest on the nose: French oak, dark cherries, blackberry and leather. Certainly on the modern, darker side. Palate shows a good quantity of sour acid, light tannin and a medium finish.
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Red
2007 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio All'Oro
91 points
I actually quite like this on the nose nose: cheese rind, dark cherry, blackberry, plum, prune and saline. Blind tasted this would not be totally out of place with it's peers. Palate has a sweet entry, turning sour, acidic and moderately tannic. Finish lingers on longer than you expect with prominent dark cherry flesh notes. Quite nice and perhaps worth a few more points with time.
Flight 8 - Villa Poggio Salvi (1 note)
Decided to quickly pop by Poggio Salvi to try my third Moscadello of the day, skipped the reds this time around.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2007 Villa Poggio Salvi Aurico
91 points
Nose of mango, lemon, orange pekoe tea and bruised apple. Fairly crisp in style. Seems to be lacking in overall power. Some rancio, tawny notes on the finish. Medium length.
Flight 9 - Corte Pavone (2 notes)
Certainly traditional leaning with pleasant volatility and sweat/saline, but also fairly dark ripe fruit. I like this producer.
Red
2009 Tenuta Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino
92 points
Seems to lean quite heavily to traditional with abundant stinky sweaty gym bag off the bat. With swirling other complexities some out on the nose: light and dark cherries, vanilla, oak spice. Excellent palate with everything in the right place: Sour acid, tannin and sweet fruit. Quite liked this.
Red
2008 Tenuta Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino
93 points
This carried on a similar house style to the previously sampled 2009, though oddly I had a slight preference for the 2008. Relied slight less on the funky gym bag notes with more overall development and complexity at this stage anyway. Nose of dark cherry, barnyard, saline and coffee. Palate is impressive with excellent length and overall balance. All the right pieces for an excellent wine.