Pale. Faint licorice and rising herbs. Light, good acidity, but that's about all there is. Not much in the way of fruit or flavor, short finish. Poor.

Deeper ruby. A Rhone-like nose of charred oak and bacon. Light weight, woody base. Pleasant red fruit and all of that smoky char at the center. Not bad but it bears no resemblance to Chambolle.

Moderately deep ruby. Tart, sharp red and black berryish aromas, and increasing perfume. A light, elegant mix of mulled red fruits and herbs. Here, the wood is much less prominent than in the Pousse d'Or. Nice texture, gently tannic at first, but there is definitely some structure there, and it closes down in the glass.

Light ruby. Pretty, high toned red fruit and menthol. Light, lower in acidity, surprisingly expansive and mouth coating with a fine finish that includes just a touch of green that gives it some complexity rather than an underripe feel. Very good texture and complexity. For me, the best of the 4 Chambolles shown today.

Medium center with browning. Anise and some funk on the nose. Round, chewy, bark-like flavors, ripely tannic finish. Too amorphous and oaky especially as it sits out.

Also with a bit of brown that seems strange for its age. Gentler aromatics, more supple and less dense than the Arlaud. Medium weight, good meaty core, some wood on the moderately long finish. This was much like the Arlaud overall, albeit a little more elegant. Not exciting, though.

One of the deepest looking wines of the tasting. Nothing but oak on the nose. Medium weight, smooth oaky base with the wood imparting some nice spiciness. Totally modern style, neither lively in the mouth nor interesting. All 3 of these 2009 Moreys just plodded along and sat there.

Pale. Sharp green notes. Better on the palate, though. Prettier, lighter and more airy than the 2009 Moreys with spicy cherries, sound acidity, and only minor greenness on the finish. After those 2009 wines, this was a shock; its elegance and relative liveliness veered back to the Chambolle side of the tasting. By far the better of the 2 Ponsot wines, easily outpacing the Chambolle.

Medium to dark ruby. Brooding, meaty nose. Supple, classy entry, excellent mouth feel. Increasing weight and intensity toward the back of the mouth with black fruit and chewy tannins-not as easy or forward as it seems at first sniff and taste. Minimal green tones here, nicely complex even at this early stage. A Bonnes Mares that speaks of Morey. Good to end the tasting on a higher note than most of the other wines achieved.