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Blind White Tasting with Top 2000 White Burgundy

Les Nomades - Chicago IL

Tasted July 29, 2014 by Burgundy Al with 424 views

Introduction

Our Chicago Lieu-dit Cru got together for our 2nd blind white dinner of the summer. Nobody knew the theme (2000 white Burgundy) going in and i was able to structure flights to keep the mystery going through three flights. All the wine came from my cellar, so everybody else got to fully participate in assessing the wines, flights and overall theme. This was our first group dinner at Les Nomades and I think they did an excellent job with both service and preparing food that would work well with white Burgundy. Kudos to them.

I selected this theme because our group had a discussion about the 2000 vintage at the last dinner. Some thought the vintage was getting long in the tooth, while I have found most 2000s to be drinking wonderfully right now, with good ageworthiness as well. Tonight's wine lineup might not have represented the "average" 2000, but the wines showed incredibly well, with only one bottle showing more age than should be fairly expected.

Flight 1 - Champagne to Start (3 notes)

I thought this a good time to try this vertical, knowing the potential risk. I was hoping for something better, but wasn't terribly surprised.

White - Sparkling
1990 Charles Ellner Champagne Brut France, Champagne
90 points
Good start to an evening of white wine. Very large scaled orchard fruit with considerable power and concentration. Clearly mature, slightly short of energy, but showing very well now given everything in its balance.
White - Sparkling
1989 Charles Ellner Champagne Brut France, Champagne
85 points
Good fruit but clearly past its peak. Lots of yellow and green apple, but not much nuance or intrigue. Would certainly have liked more acidity. Not nearly as interesting as the 1990 vintage just tasted.
White - Sparkling
1988 Charles Ellner Champagne Brut France, Champagne
flawed
Fill was almost an inch below bottom of foil, so my expectations were very low. Expectations were met.

Flight 2 - A Subdued Entry Level Start from Meursault (3 notes)

White
2000 Morey-Blanc Meursault Les Narvaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
88 points
Not nearly as interesting as another bottle from the same case from a few weeks ago. That bottle seemed to freshen up with more air, but this bottle started with oxidative character and that mustiness never softened. So while this wasn't overly advance, it was clearly mature and displaying moderate intensity and length.
White
2000 Pierre Morey Meursault Les Tessons France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
90 points
Better than the last bottle from a year ago from the same case. This was also large and firm with a meaty character and good density. Just not as complete and complex as the Bouchere in the next glass.
White
2000 Morey-Blanc Meursault 1er Cru Bouchères France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
92 points
Lots of apple, very fresh and energetic with good concentration. Group consensus this was clearly the highlight of the flight.

Flight 3 - Some More Meursault (4 notes)

White
2000 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
92 points
This was one of the two impressive wines in the flight, both turning out to be Meursault 2000 Charmes, the other from Henri Boillot. This was moderately ripe, lean and incredibly elegant with great and overall textures. Good now, even if I enjoyed the Boillot slightly more today, but this will be more interesting going forward.
White
2000 Yves Boyer-Martenot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
86 points
Opened ~90 minutes before serving, this would probably have benefited from less air. Overall advanced and slightly tired, still pleasant but less interesting than another fresher bottle from last year.
White
2000 Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
93 points
One of the 2 highlights of the flight along with the Lafon 2000 Charmes. This was very lush, lush and enticing. Forward upfront with impressive intensity, but perhaps not the same depth and nuance as the Lafon. This was more fun and pleasurable today, but I'd expect the Lafon better long-term.
White
2000 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
88 points
Mature yellow and green apple. Tasty and fun, yet not quite as interesting and complete as previous bottles, so it is definitely time to drink up.

Flight 4 - Mostly Chevalier-Montrachet (4 notes)

White
2000 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
91 points
Tasted single blind in this flight, I was slightly disappointed with this wine vs its reputation. Modest in every regard, I frankly didn't find Grand Cru intensity here. This was open 2 hours before serving, next time I will pop-and-pour this wine.
White
2000 Williams Selyem Chardonnay Allen Vineyard USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
87 points
I included in this flight as a "ringer" thinking its depth and intensity would almost/maybe fit, but everybody immediately identified that this as the one of four bottles didn't fit. Very enjoyable, but ripe and hedonistic vs the Chevalier-Montrachet in the flight (ok, not fair) and also more advanced.
White
2000 Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
93 points
Tasted single blind in the flight, everybody agreed this was the clear star. A wine I've always enjoyed when not oxidized, this was a great bottle. Lush start, powerful throughout, this showed layers of complexity, unfolding with more time in glass, going from ripe and fun towards something more textured and elegant. Very impressive.
White
2000 Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
92 points
Rich start, seemingly almost one dimensional, but this kept expanding and evolving from middle to finish. Very nuanced and textured, this required lots of attention to appreciate. i enjoyed this wine more than most others tonight.

Flight 5 - Also Mostly Chevalier-Montrachet (3 notes)

White
2000 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
95 points
Tasted single blind in probably the best wine flight I've had all year. This turned out as WOW, but I was very nervous when opening the bottle several hours earlier, given the cork was fully soaked though and slightly moldy on top. Despite that challenge, this was powerful, lush and incredibly long. Lots of spice came through everywhere from beginning to end.
White
2000 Domaine Ramonet Chevalier-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
95 points
Tasted single blind in what might be the best wine flight I've had all year. ll of the group was able to identify this as Ramonet from that telltale mint...for better or worse. This was powerful and subtle at the same time with great freshness.
White
2000 Domaine Jacques Prieur Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
96 points
Tasted single blind in perhaps the best wine flight I've had this year. My last bottle of this wine, so i can't complain about it also being the best it has ever performed. Peach and apple with rich, intense spice, but everything is in virtually perfect equilibrium with lots of density.

Flight 6 - Chablis Grand Cru (4 notes)

White
2000 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
flawed
Sadly corked.
White
2000 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
91 points
Single blind in the flight, this wine was the one in the flight that was clearly and unquestionably Chablis to me. This was all about minerality and texture, with lacy and elegant character start to finish, but with a power and intensity I always associate with Raveneau. At its peak now, but with the concentration to hold nicely and evolve for another decade.
White
2000 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
82 points
Tired bottle, past its peak. Sharp contrast to the Fevre 2000 Valmur, which was quite tasty.
White
2000 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
90 points
Upfront and plenty ripe with good acidity and minerality from middle to finish. Would like more nuance from Grand Cru from a good vintage, but certainly lots of pleasure here. Wouldn't cellar this much longer.

Flight 7 - Why Not Open the Backup Bottles with Cheese? (2 notes)

White
2000 Jean-Philippe Fichet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
91 points
Apple and lemon peel throughout, this was easy to enjoy from the first sniff to the final sip. This was a great coiled bundle of energy that would have made me think it much younger if tasted blind. Moderate power and length.
White
2000 Château de la Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Dent de Chien France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
91 points
Dark color gave me pause to start, but this was rich, lush and unctuous, just staying on the good side of the border between fresh enough and tired. i might have liked this wine better than most tonight.
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