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Italians, 2nd Labels of 1st Growths, 95 Prum, +
Our favorite Italian Place
Tasted October 5, 2014 - October 6, 2014 by Loren Sonkin with 490 views
Introduction
Last Saturday my wife and I joined our friends Tom and Kathy for dinner at our favorite high end Italian place. It was a long, elegant meal with many course lasting 4 hours or more. We opened a lot of bottles which we shared with the staff and other patrons at the end of the night. Fun night, with lots of great food and conversation. As for the wines:
Flight 1 - Some whites to Start (3 notes)
White
1995 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett
94 points
What a great showing. Pop and pour. Deep golden in color. On pouring this had a nice nose but was a bit flat and bitter on the palate. After about 20 minutes, this started to really improve. It kept getting better for a couple of hours after which is started to slowly fall back. At its best, the nose is great with just a hint of petrol. Lots of minerality. A bit of honey. Pretty dry at first, with air, it showed just a touch of sweetness. Nice slightly viscous body. Good acidity. Just a lovely wine and a delightfully unexpected showing.
White
2012 Montagna Quattro Bianchi
88 points
45% Fiano, 35% Greco di Tufo, 10% Ribolla Gialla and 10% Arneis from Pritchard Hill. The others like this more than I. I found it nice but lacking enough to be great. Light silvery gold in color. The nose has a nice minerality with some citrus. On the palate, this is a bit flat and a bit bitter. With air, it gets better and the bitterness disappears. Its interesting and does work well with food.
White
2010 Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino Radici
90 points
Not as vivid as a prior bottle I had of this. Seems like it was a bit shut down. It did open with some air though. Light gold in color. The nose is very mineral with a bit of creamy peaches. Not showing as much complexity as I expected. My wife thought it a bit flat and it did lack some of the acidity that the other wines showed. I found it excellent but underperforming my expectations. Oh well, it happens.
Flight 2 - A Rose (1 note)
Rosé
2010 Antica Terra Pinot Noir Rosé Erratica
87 points
I think this missed the peak drinking window. Pale pink/copper in color. The nose is excellent. Some nice earthy funk with macerated cherries. On the palate, this has some bitter cherry flavor but mostly just falls flat. Lacking acidity. Don't get me wrong, this is a very nice rose and I went back to it a few times. It is food friendly, but at this price range, I want more.
Flight 3 - 2nd Labels of 2st Growths (2000) (3 notes)
Red
2000 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux
92 points
Slow-ox for 4 hours. The nose is very nice. Perfumed with cassis and slight earthy notes. Very pretty. Elegant on the palate. Seems to be mature if not quite at peak. Nice layering. Good fruit left. Soft texture. Delicious.
Red
2000 Carruades de Lafite
92 points
This still needs some time. It was slow-oxed for 4 hours. Purple in color. The nose is deep with kirsch, leather and some pencil lead. Slightly dusty. On the palate, this is full bodied with a rough but lush texture. Lots of fruit. It slowly unwinds, but I would still be holding these. It should improve a bit.
Red
2000 Château Bahans Haut-Brion
93 points
I liked this bottle a lot and more than a bottle a year or two ago. Slow-oxed for 4 hours, this was open and seemingly at peak. Purple/ruby in color. The nose has cassis, gravel and charred wood, and a bit of graphite. On the palate, this is silky. Lots of cassis and some dark cherries. A bit of earthiness as well. Great balance. Seems at peak but no hurry. Fine tannins. long finish. Great balance.
Flight 4 - Some 2004 Italians (3 notes)
Red
2004 Fattoria Galardi Terra di Lavoro
94 points
Slow-oxed for 6 hours. This still needs some time. It is outstanding but still primary. It opened a bit in the glass, but there seems to be a lot underneath. The nose has black cherries, grilled meats, a floral note and cherries. On the palate, this has a lush texture. Deep if ungiving. Tons of fruit with very firm tannins. Nice balance. Lots of potential to improve from here. Hold for 5 years.
Red
2004 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso
95 points
Easily my WOTN. Gorgeous wine. It was slow-oxed for 6 hours and firing on all cylinders. This is Cabernet Franc from Tuscany. The nose has dark cherries, spice, licorice and cigar tobacco. On the palate, lush texture that separates into complex layers of fruit, tobacco and earthiness. Great acidity. Long finish. I kept going back for more. Just delicious. Perhaps not quite at peak, but getting close.
Red
2004 Argiolas Korem Isola dei Nuraghi IGT
93 points
Pop and pour. This is a blend of Bovale Sardo, Carrignane and Grenache from Sardinia. Yes, they have other names for the grapes. Quite good and seems to be at peak. Black raspberries, raspberries, charred wood and spice on the nose. Light tannins. Lots of complexity. Long finish. Really delicious and food friendly.
Flight 5 - Dessert (1 note)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2004 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
93 points
Lots of Vin Santo out there, not a lot of good ones. This is very good and one of the best for the money. The nose has balsamic, orange peel, slight toffee, and slight burnt note. Really nice. Full bodied. Slightly sweet. The toffee and orange peel carry thru to the palate. Nice acidity. A little goes a long way.
Closing
Sunday was slow, but luckily all I had to do was watch the Browns and they even came back from being down 28-3 for the win!