An evening of Barolo and Barbaresco

Bern, Switzerland

Tasted October 25, 2014 by Eric with 533 views

Introduction

This was a lovely evening of Barolo and Barbaresco with a few ringers tossed in. All of the wines were served blind and in somewhat random order. Strangely enough, the first wine in every flight was the most modern.

Flight 1 (1 note)

First we started with a ringer white, also served blind.

White
2012 Christian Zundel Chardonnay Velabona Switzerland, Ticino
Edgy and mineral with a flinty note that hints at Chablis but without enough acid to get me there. However it also lacked the depth and weight of Chardonnay that I am used to, so I assumed that it was some sort of Italian variety like Arneis or Gavi.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 2 (3 notes)

We knew there would be one cool climate Nebbiolo present on the evening, and that one stood in stark contrast to the Conterno which showed quite modern.

Red
1999 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
An utterly soaring nose of roses just explodes from the glass. Dried fruits and apricot with a faint Amarone aspect. Clearly modern, but I find this to be very enjoyable. Sweet, cherries and spicecake. My #2 wine of the flight.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2001 AR.PE.PE. Valtellina Superiore - Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Valtellina Superiore - Sassella
Loaded with iron and hints of green peppercorn. Faintly smoky with some wet earth. The palate is loaded with green, stalky aspects with a very appealing vegetal character. The more it airs it gains depth with tar, black and brooding and much "darker" than the other wines in the flight. My #3 wine of the flight.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2001 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Ca'mia Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
In between the other two wines in style. More compact with a balsamic aspect. Smouldering, sharp, with iron and a whiff of alcohol. Really compact and tightly wound. Peppery, sharp and dry. Mmm, wow, this is really opening up well. There is lots of alcohol but amazing acidity. My #1 wine of the flight.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 (3 notes)

The Voerzio really stood out as a different animal here, especially in contrast to the Produttori. And oh that Bartolo Mascarello.

Red
2001 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Volatile with florals and oak. Deeeep concentration. Explosive palate, powerful, with balsamic notes. It's quite fun. Very modern. But fun. My #3 wine of the flight.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Vitamin and faintly citric. Also volatile, peppery and alcoholic. At first it is a bit linear and tannic, maybe a little muddled. However with more time I really started to enjoy this more. Very compact and powerful but enjoyable at the same time. My #2 wine of the flight.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2001 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Iron, iron, and more iron at first. With a swirl there are floral notes and mint with some tobacco. Wow what a palate. Seamless with perfect balance. Pure cherry fruit, vibrant, sweet and sour. This is really just perfectly enjoyable, peppery and tarry, so energetic. My clear #1 wine of the flight and #2 wine of the night.
2 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 4 (3 notes)

A magical flight with the Giacosa shining so brightly.

Red
1998 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Sorì San Lorenzo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Big, tarry and flamboyant, exploding with flowers and cherries. Bruising, powerful, tannic and beastly. It is an impressive wine but my least favorite of the flight.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Citric, vanilla, spicecake. Every time you swirl you get more exotic and complex scents. The palate is compact at first with tar, smoke, mineral and gunpowder. The concentration here is just unreal, but the wine is so elegant and seamless that it handles it with ease. There aren't enough words in my vocabulary to capture how hypnotic and beautiful this wine is. Stunning wine and my best Giacosa experience so far. My #1 of the flight and #1 wine of the night.
4 people found this helpful Comments (1)
Red
2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Slightly more volatile and clearly traditional. Mmm, there is a lot going on here. Cranberry, dark, energetic. My #2 wine of the flight.
1 person found this helpful Comments (6)

Closing

I bow at the altar of Giacosa and Bartolo Mascarello. On a night with many terrific wines, those two stood out in stunning fashion.

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