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30+ wines in Michigan
The Goldberg's
Tasted December 29, 2014 by Loren Sonkin with 929 views
Introduction
Roy H. goes back to visit family over the holidays in the Detroit area. Some of the locals tend to arrange a tasting while he is up there. Its been a while since I had been there, but this time, the weather was good as was the timing, so I drove the three hours and met up at Joel and Sally's for a fun evening. There were nine of us. Sally and Joel picked up local BBQ and Mid-eastern fare. From there, we casually drank a LOT of wine over the course of 6 hours. This was done in loose flights, non blind.
Flight 1 - A starter while we stood around and made introductions: (1 note)
White
2009 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon
92 points
I love this wine. I had not had this vintage yet. Golden in color. The nose has great minerality with a floral tone as well. A bit of quince as well. There is a slightly oily texture which plays off the clean, sinewy wine. A very nice complexity. Lovely way to start.
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Flight 2 - A white flight: (5 notes)
We sat down and started to taste thru the white wines.
White
2012 Domaine des Enfants Côtes Catalanes Tabula Rasa
90 points
A new wine for me. Very nice. Intriguing nose of white raisins, honey, peach and a slightly nutty quality. On the palate, a bit of pineapple. Turns slightly bitter on the finish. This was a blend of some seldom used varietals including Macebo (think Cava). I don't know that it makes old bones, but quite enjoyable now.
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White
2013 Wyncroft Chardonnay Avonlea Vineyard
89 points
These are world class Chard. I hate to post its made in Michigan as that seems irrelevant for this quality. The nose has slight limes. A nice minerality as well. Also a bit of a bready/toasty quality to it. On the palate, there is some butterscotch and oak although this saw neutral oak. A slight bit of heat as well. I think this may have benefitted from a bit of air, but we were on a mission. These are wines worth checking out.
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White
2008 Domaine Gresser Riesling Wiebelsberg
91 points
Gorgeous nose. Very clean. Floral nose with tropical fruit. Medium body. Tart apples on the palate. Nice texture. Going back to it later in the evening, this had put on some weight. There is just a hint of sweetness to this but enough texture and acidity to carry it.
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White
2013 Marland Chardonnay Non Affecté
89 points
This is the second label for Wyncroft. This sees no oak at all. Apparently it went thru full ML over the course of winter as it sat on its lees but in a tank. I found it very nice. I am one who doesn't like a lot of oak in my whites. This is clean on the nose with some minerals and lemon. On the palate, quite refreshing with a nice acidity. Nice texture. I think this retails around $20 and it is a great value at that price.
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White
2011 Johan Vineyards Chardonnay Visdom
89 points
Golden in color. A subtle nose. Dusty with slight lemons. Soft texture. Grapefruit on the palate. Nice finish.
Flight 3 - A Pinot Noir Flight (3 notes)
Red
2012 Ayoub Pinot Noir Thistle Vineyard
92 points
Nice cherry fruit up front. Some black raspberries. Very primary. This is a big Pinot. On the palate it verges on liqueur but holds just off. Enough acidity to carry this off. It has a lovely texture with medium tannins. I think five to ten years in the cellar will do this just fine.
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Red
2005 Wyncroft Pinot Noir Avonlea Vineyard
93 points
I brought this as I knew Jim would be there. It was a great chance to see how these wines age. Jim was confident, so I popped the cork. Great showing. The nose has cinnamon and cherries. On the palate, it has an elegance with layers of earth, creamy cherries and cherry juice. Great texture. Slight mushroom on the finish.
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Red
2012 Luminous Hills Pinot Noir
90 points
Another bigger wine although, for me, not as big as the Ayoub. Spice and cherries on the nose. Cherries and some rhubarb on the palate. A hint of cough syrup on the finish. This also has a nice creamy texture despite its youth. Best days are ahead, I would wait five year on this.
Flight 4 - A miscellaneous flight. (1 note)
We didn't quite know where to put this one.
Red
1999 Pasanau Priorat Finca La Planeta
90 points
Chad brought this and said it is Cabernet Sauvignon. Perhaps, but I did feel there is some Garnacha in here too. The nose is dusty with cranberries, strawberries and cherries. On the palate, there is a nice complexity. This is medium bodied. Cherries and cranberries. Nice finish. Nice acidity. At 15 years, it has held up just fine, but I don't think it improves from here.
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Flight 5 - A Syrah Flight (5 notes)
Red
2012 SonkinCellars Persona
We opened a bottle of this as part of a Syrah flight. I thought it showed well.
Red
2008 Rhys Syrah Skyline Vineyard
90 points
The crowd seemed mixed on this one. A very nice example of cooler climate Syrah. Black raspberries on the nose. A slight eucalyptus note too. Medium bodied. I enjoyed the lighter texture that made this refreshing. Nice boysenberry fruit on the palate. Still young but starting to show some definition.
Red
2012 Gramercy Cellars Syrah The Deuce Walla Walla Valley
91 points
Jim went down to his cellar and got this one. It really needs a bit more time or air. The nose has black raspberries, some grilled meats and some blueberries. Also some charred wood. Lush but sinewy texture. Lots of black raspberry fruit. Nice acidity. Long finish. Pretty take on cool climate Syrah.
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Red
2011 Chateau Aeronautique Winery Syrah
88 points
Another interesting take on Syrah. This was from Michigan. The owner, Lorenzo, was with us and asked Joel to open one of these from his cellar. Thank you. Ruby in color. The nose has boysenberries, white pepper and dark cherries. On the palate, this is more about red fruit. 15.1% Alc. but not noticeable. Very cool to be able to try this.
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Flight 6 - A really special 1991 flight: (3 notes)
Red
1991 Ridge Geyserville
94 points
Beautiful showing for this wine. Not quite at maturity but getting close. Purple in color. The nose has black cherries, black raspberries, leather, and spice. More red fruit; cherries and dark cherries on the palate. Nice balance. Great juicy texture. This was 50% Zin. Just beautiful For many a WOTN.
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Red
1991 Ridge Zinfandel Pagani Ranch
92 points
I think I liked this better than most. It is really drinking well and while at peak, no hurry. The nose is dark cherries and black raspberries with some spice and anise. Nice texture. Dark cherries and raspberries on the palate. Juicy acidity. Long finish.
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Red
1991 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate
94 points
I love this wine. I believe Joel bought this on release and cellared it since then. I believe it as it is drinking quite young still. The nose has cassis, sandalwood, spice and leather. Wonderful juicy texture. Lots of cassis fruit with a nice earthiness layered in between. Seemed to get better, I think this still needs a bit of air when opening. Just an awesome wine.
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Flight 7 - Some young guns from California (3 notes)
Red
2007 Buccella Merlot
94 points
This is a huge wine. It was a bit controversial due to that. I liked it a lot. It probably won't hit its peak for five years at least. The inevitable discussion of whether these wines will age occurred. I think it will age just fine. At 7 years from vintage, it is drinking well. The nose has cedar, cherries and dark cherries. Creamy texture. tons of dark cherry and cherry fruit on the palate. Certainly, some would dismiss this as a "cherry milkshake" but I thought it had great fruit. Nice acidity. Still primary, I think it will develop, but I would lay these down for a while.
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Red
2012 mica Cabernet Sauvignon
92 points
This is the second label for Buccella. It was quite good, but I am not sure what the pricing is. Cassis on the nose with some fresh oak as well as spice. Slightly drying tannins along with oak on the palate. For all the oak though, there is plenty of oak and lots of depth. This needs five years, minimum, but should develop nicely. It has a great texture; juicy and full. Very nice wine. The crowd again, was mixed on style, but seemed to like it.
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Red
2012 Post & Vine Old Vine Field Blend Testa Vineyard
92 points
This is the individual project of the Buccella winemaker. At about $28, there is serious value here. I believe there is a lot of Zin in this blend. It is a lighter style of wine with a nice acidity. The nose has black cherries. Good acidity and black cherries on the palate. Plenty of tannins right now but drinks well. Certainly no hurry though.
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Flight 8 - A few more miscellaneous but interesting wines (3 notes)
Red
2013 Wyncroft Blaufränkisch Lake Michigan Shore Glacier's Edge
90 points
This was the first vintage for this wine. Jim Lester believes that it is a varietal that has a real future for Michigan. 2013 he believes was a good, not great vintage. If so, then, he is right. This was excellent. Ruby in color. The nose has cherries with a bit of celery (which was ok, not great). Much better on the palate. This is low in alcohol. IIRC, it cam in at 20 brix. Medium body. Raspberries and cherries with a lot of complexity and depth. Slightly tannins. Jim thought there was a lot of black fruit, but for me it was more red fruit. I haven't had a lot of this grape (mostly Austrian) but this was like a Lighter styled Zin mixed with Pinot IMO. I really liked it. Joel thought it was the best Michigan Blaufrankisch that he had tried. Hard to argue. :-)
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Red
2010 Domaine Chaume Arnaud Côtes du Rhône Villages La Cadenne
93 points
A new wine for me. This is a GSM blend. I am not sure it carried the CdR Villages designation. I thought someone said it had a new one that was upgraded. The nose is earthy with raspberries and black raspberries. Also some spice. Complex. Tannic. Great texture. Complex with lots of depth. Delicious. Needs time to develop.
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Red
2012 Wyncroft Pinot Noir Avonlea Vineyard
89 points
With the caveat that if the 2005 is any indication, this will develop beautifully. Right now it has light cherries on the nose. Young, tart acidity with cranberries and rhubarb. It is a nice Pinot but needs some time to develop. I do have faith in Jim's wines.
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Flight 9 - A Cab Franc (plus) flight (3 notes)
Red
2008 Jonata Winery El Alma de Jonata
95 points
A beautiful example of CA Cab Franc IMO. Gorgeous wine. The nose has black cherries, pencil lead, and tobacco. Firm tannins. Complex and layered tightly on the palate. This was pop and pour and some air would have benefitted it. Still, it drinks really well right now. Great cherry fruit. great balance. Long finish.
Red
2013 Marland Cabernet Franc
89 points
Very nice showing for this second wine of Wyncroft. I think it was priced in the mid-20s which is a great value. The nose has cherries, bell pepper, and tobacco. Medium bodied. Some complexity even at this young stage. Very refreshing as well as interesting.
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Comments (3)
Red
2012 Wyncroft Shou Avonlea Vineyard
90 points
This is hard to judge at this stage. It is a Bordeaux blend and perhaps the best wine Wyncroft makes. It is a tough wine right now hiding a bit. Yet, with air, there is a deep complexity. I hope to taste this wine in about ten years when I bet it scores a couple/few points higher.
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Flight 10 - A bit more than a palate refresher (1 note)
White
2013 Left Foot Charley Pinot Blanc Island View Vineyard
91 points
We got to talking about Michigan wines and I mentioned that up in the north (but not the UP), there were a few producers making world class white and sparkling wines. Joel went down to the cellar yet again, and pulled this out. I haven't had a lot of producers from there, but for still whites, this has been one of my favorites and this was no exception. The nose is very clean. Lots of pears and some minerals. Great acidity. Pears carry thru to the palate. Dry but with a feeling of sweetness. I suspect some RS but under 1%. Impressive wine.
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Flight 11 - A dessert flight (3 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2013 Wyncroft Riesling Icewine Wren Song Vineyard
96 points
I think this was the designation. It was harvested at over 40 Brix. The nose is gorgeous with tropical fruits. It also has a sugared quality to it along with some matchsticks. Great texture. Honeyed and apricots on the palate. Jim thought it drank like a cross between a Sauternes and a German Eiswein and while that is not wrong, it drinks much closer to the latter. Long finish. Excellent acidity. Long finish. This is a wow wine. $50 and a great value at that price.
Red - Sweet/Dessert
2013 Chateau Aeronautique Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Passito
90 points
This is a dessert wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon in a Passitio method. Very interesting. Light ruby in color. The nose is different with a kirsch quality. Someone (Chaad?) said it had Vidalia Onions which I did not notice but agreed with. Nice texture. Sweet but not cloying. I didn't get a Cab quality but that's ok. Nice.
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Red - Fortified
N.V. S. Leonardo Porto 30 Year Old Tawny
95 points
This was great. Tawny in color. The nose is chocolate, toffee and raisins. There is also this woody, musty quality which is nice and better than it sounds. Nice acidity. Some warming on the finish. Roy H. said this gets no distribution in the US. Too bad as this was a very nice 30 year Tawny. I don't drink a lot of these, but this was outstanding and a great finish.
Closing
It was great to see some old friends and meet some new ones. I had a blast and tasted thru some great wines. Thanks to everyone for including me in. Let's hope we can do it again.