Some Champagnes and a few reds

Columbus, OH

Tasted February 24, 2007 by psmith with 895 views


A few friends and I had been trying to put together a Champagne night for a while. We finally found a date that worked and it and it didn't disappoint. Lots of good Champagne friendly food (what isn't?) including but not limited to some delcious cheeses from (Epoisse and Brillat-Savarin being particuarly memorable), what must have been a pound of Petrossian Transmontanus (of which I think I ate 200g), and some silky and delicious smoked salmon from Browne Trading Co.

Flight 1 (1 note)

We started off with an unidentified Cava and a sabered Rosé:

Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Paul Goerg Champagne Premier Cru a Vertus France, Champagne
Earthy with a light red berry component. A mild sweetness to the palate. Aggressive and tart. OK.

Flight 2 (4 notes)

A Le Mesnil Sur Oger flight:

White - Sparkling
N.V. Michel Turgy Champagne Grand Cru Réserve Selection Brut Blanc de Blancs France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Early 1990s release. Toast, biscuit, and light coffee notes. Deliciously rich. Fine bead. Really showing very nicely now.
White - Sparkling
1985 Alain Robert Champagne Blanc de Blancs Reserve Le Mesnil France, Champagne
Heavily oxidative wine, though not nearly to the extent that this producer's NV is. Big and nutty. Somewhat unattractive caramelized finish. Some effervescence on the palate. Paired well with some Epoisse, but not really attractive on its own.
White - Sparkling
1990 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil France, Champagne
Big wine in a slightly oxidative Krug style. Fresh, toasty wine with a still very raw and vibrant palate. Wonderful purity and balance - just very complete. Stunningly good stuff, but needs lots of time.
White - Sparkling
1988 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
Clean and toasty. Pure and youthful with crisp, slightly candied flavors and a subdued, balanced mousse. Far superior to a bottle from a few months ago.

Flight 3 (2 notes)

Some mature Dom Pérignons:

White - Sparkling
1966 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque France, Champagne
Recent disgorgement. Total coffee and mocha on the nose. Dark fruits and a wonderful richness. Balancing fine mousse left. Some liqueur-like qualities. Really good.
White - Sparkling
1969 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon France, Champagne
Original disgorgement. Darker color than is correct. Rich wine with coffee and candied orange. Rather dull and caramelized flavors, but some mousse left to keep things from being too heavy. Probably has seen some hard treatment at some point, but enjoyable enough.

Flight 4 (2 notes)

A couple of Blanc de Noirs:

White - Sparkling
1995 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Les Clos Saint-Hilaire France, Champagne
Floral wine with darker fruits and a really intriguing Carribean spice component. Very agressive and raw in its youth, but more accessable flavors than expected. Lots of class and very exotic wine. Needs time.
White - Sparkling
1990 Bollinger Champagne Vieilles Vignes Françaises France, Champagne
Floral with blue fruits. Deep and deliciously rich and nuanced, lots of Pinot character. Well balanced mousse.

Flight 5 (2 notes)

A few La Grande Dame Rosés:

Rosé - Sparkling
1989 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut Rosé La Grande Dame France, Champagne
More delicate flavors than expected. Very alive with a vibrant mousse and subtle cherry cola and cream flavors. Nice spice component. Delicious stuff.

Flight 6 (5 notes)

And one last Champagne that didn't quite fit the other lineups, along with some reds to make sure nobody was sober. The Alzero was perhaps poorly placed and I'm not sure the bottle was even finished, but it did wake up the palate after so much acidity.

White - Sparkling
1993 Drappier Champagne "2000" France, Champagne
Vanilla and citrus flavors. Light toast. Good wine made not to offend.
1997 Giuseppe Quintarelli Cabernet Alzero Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
Pruney with a distinctly Cabernet Franc green edge. Amarone-styling. Huge, tannic wine with a slightly sweet palate impression. Very impressive, but best in small doses as it does get tiring.
1988 Joseph Drouhin Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Youthful with Chambertin earth and red cherry fruits. Medium bodied and tannic - needs lots of time.
1998 Domaine Leroy Clos de la Roche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Sex in a glass. Incredibly seductive wine - red and black fruits with floral undertones. Full, youthful palate with a great tannic balance. Really good stuff.
1991 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Kirsch flavors. Very youthful wine....does Vogüé ever taste mature? Masculine, but refined palate. Earthy and tannic. Promising wine.


Great night, thanks very much to the generous hosts!

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