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A Special Dinner

Park 75, Four Seasons Hotel, Atlanta

Tasted August 5, 2015 by MikeATL with 529 views

Introduction

As the Park 75 restaurant at the Four Seasons in Atlanta heads for a transition to a completely different concept,* a small group of us gathered last night for a special dinner. We asked Sous Chef Jomo Morris to prepare a meal for us inspired by his Jamaican roots, and he and the rest of his team delivered a brilliant experience. This was the third tasting menu I've had the privilege of enjoying from Chef Jomo in the past three weeks, including the Corton dinner when Mike Grammer was in town, and each has been outstanding. Chef Jomo's talent in the kitchen is only surpassed by his humility and his charm. And our server, Christian, did a terrific job (though I'm biased because he is also a friend).

Looking back, my notes aren't great, as I was more focused on enjoying the food, wine, and company than on recording my impressions, but I hope they offer something worthwhile.

*Eater Atlanta reported today that the Park 75 space will become a banquet/meeting space and that the Park 75 Lounge and Terrace will become Bar Margot, a new Ford Fry restaurant.

Flight 1 - Aperitif (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Domaine Langlois-Château Crémant de Loire Brut France, Loire Valley, Crémant de Loire
87 points
Creamy, with crisp apple, not that complex, but clean and refreshing.

Flight 2 - Snapper, Langoustines, and Stuffed Shrimp (2 notes)

White
2012 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett Germany, Nahe
92 points
A hint of petrol, pear, peach, a little lemon, a little floral, razor sharp acid balances the off-dry sweetness.
White - Off-dry
1994 Wegeler Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
88 points
Apricot, honey, a hint of bitterness on the finish but very much alive.

Flight 3 - Quail with Tamarind Glaze, Curried Lentils, and a Red Stripe Sofrito and Duck Confit with Black Bean Risotto (2 notes)

Red
1999 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
92 points
A little soapy at first, but it blows off quickly to show sweet red fruit, still a little tight, but attractively elegant. It blossoms with air, picking up spice and sap and adding layers of complexity. It's approachable, but has plenty of life left.
Red
2001 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
87 points
Berry fruit, a little spice, but lacking concentration in the middle. Not bad, and it fills in a little with air, but not great.

Flight 4 - Pork Tenderloin with Fingerling Potato Salad and Salsa Verde (2 notes)

Red
1993 Ravenswood Zinfandel Old Hill USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
91 points
Lots of eucalyptus, blackberry,, cinnamon and nutmeg, rich fruit but with a little savory leather that keeps it in check.
Red
2011 Château Cambon Beaujolais "Le Cambon" France, Burgundy, Beaujolais
90 points
Ripe pure raspberry fruit, a little mint, with a pleasant tartness on the finish.

Flight 5 - Fresh Tagliatelli with Oxtails and Chanterelles (2 notes)

Red
1996 Chateau Ste. Michelle Artist Series Meritage USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
90 points
Fairly pure black currant fruit, a little mint, a little simple but very pleasant and still very much alive.
Red
2004 Giovanni Manzone Barolo Le Gramolere Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
87 points
Oodles of oak overpowers the fruit, it has the fruit to come together, but needs time.

Flight 6 - St.-Andre Souffle with Epoisses and Pineapple Chutney (1 note)

White
2013 Cowan Cellars Bel USA, California, North Coast
90 points
Funky, mixing tropical fruit, ripe pear, Ribolla oiliness, and a little lemon and minerals, with a good acidic backbone.

Flight 7 - Sunnyside up Banana Cake and White Chocolate with Plantain "Bacon" (2 notes)

Red - Sweet/Dessert
2000 Avignonesi Vin Santo di Montepulciano Occhio di Pernice Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vin Santo di Montepulciano
87 points
It is what it is. Mix equal parts Guinness and honey and reduce with a twist of lemon.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2005 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. Málaga #2 Victoria Spain, Andalucía, Málaga
91 points
Lovely rosewater and white peach, sweet but not cloying.

Closing

I could not have asked for more from my last dinner at Park 75, but look forward to trying the new concept. Chef Jomo and his team conveyed their passion for their heritage with brilliance and sophistication, and I'm honored to have been a part of this special evening.

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