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An enlightening vertical of Clos de la Coulée de Serrant

Racines, NYC

Tasted September 18, 2015 by mdefreitas with 582 views

Flight 1 - STARTER WINE (1 note)

White - Off-dry
1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
Almost everyone's first comment when tasting this wine was "Wooly". Indeed, this was very much affected with wooly, furry, slightly fungal flavors. Brad (who brought the wine) mentioned there was quite a bit of mold on the cork and perhaps this permeated into the wine within. Not what it should be. Not rated.

Flight 2 - THE MAIN EVENT (6 notes)

White
1990 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières-Coulée de Serrant
92 points
A bit closed aromatically, but this was beautiful on the palate, with notes of quince, peach, grapefruit and other assorted citrus fruits. The acids were razor sharp and precise, really palate-scraping, but not austere. This improved with air, and the fruit became a bit more "yellow" and plumper. A clean, focused and energetic wine.
White
1989 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières-Coulée de Serrant
95 points
Not as precise as the 1990, but this had more personality. Very open on the nose, with a (relatively) richer palate. Some wool, lovely minerality and a retrained, bright tropicality to it. Very complex, layered and generous, perhaps the most giving wine of the night. Lengthy, shimmering finish. One of my favorites of the night.
White
1988 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières-Coulée de Serrant
93 points
A striking wine, with a wild, exotic and flamboyantly herbal profile. Fresh, lifted botanicals and citrus notes with electric acidity. One of the favorites among many in attendance. To me, this showed the lean, structured personality of the vintage (which is not meant in a bad way). A wine that is more about the bones than the flesh. A svelte beauty.
White
1985 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières-Coulée de Serrant
94 points
This showed quite a bit of spritz when first poured, which did not detract at all from enjoying it. The spritz dissipated quickly and revealed a fresh, youthful, flinty wine. A bit of pleasing bitterness (I was reminded of citrus pith). Like the 1988, this showed an herbal streak, which added complexity to the grapefruit and lanolin notes. Astoundingly fresh for a 30 year old wine.
White
1983 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières-Coulée de Serrant
92 points
A bit of sulfur was noted when first poured, but this improved and blossomed with air. Racy and crisp; hints of yellow fruits and dusted with minerals. A bit of herbs and beeswax mixed in with hints of botrytis. Lots of flavor here and loads of personality. One of the most intriguing and "fun" wines of the night.
White
1967 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières-Coulée de Serrant
96 points
Wow... what a treat... thank you Brad for bringing this. My first thoughts were "finally, a Clos de la Coulée de Serrant that is fully resolved and ready to drink". No sharp acids here, but certainly not lacking in definition. The acids were smooth, silky and saline. Lovely minerality on this surprisingly fresh, lifted, seamless wine. I didn't write down any "fruit" descriptors in my notes, but I certainly don't recall this wine lacking in that regard. A wine that caressed the palate like cashmere. Gorgeous length and breath and no signs of being tired... perhaps at peak?

Closing

A wonderful showing for all the Coulée de Serrants! I remember being less than thrilled with these wines in the past, but perhaps they either needed more time, or my palate has changed. Drinking these by themselves, with food (as opposed with copious other wines in a mega-tasting) probably helped as well, as these are wines of subtlety and nuance and pair so lovely with the right food. An enlightening evening indeed.

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