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Pomerol panache

Bordeaux, actually tasted during en primeur week

Tasted May 1, 2016 by PanosKakaviatos with 852 views

Introduction

Generally speaking, you have two categories here: one where power is stressed; the other seduction and charm. The barrel samples that most excited me combined both... More details, with pictures, here: http://www.wine-chronicles.com/blog/bdx15-pomerol-panache/

Flight 1 (22 notes)

Red
2015 Château Beauregard France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
This is textbook 2015 Pomerol with pleasing floral aspects, ripe plum and touches of dark cherry. The palate is smooth and elegant, leading to a lifting finish with cool fruit. If priced moderately, it should be one to seek for savvy #winelovers, at least for special occasions. Bravo! 91-93
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château Le Bon Pasteur France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Tasted after the Beauregard, it comes across as a bit heavier by comparison, where I could feel the extraction more, but there is power on the mid palate, ripe tannin and a heady finish that some tasters like more than others. 89-92
Red
2015 Château Bourgneuf France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
This blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc comes across as forebodingly tannic and powerful, somewhat closed in. The aromatics are pleasing, but one gets the impression that while many 2015 barrel samples harken back to the 1985 and 2005 “5” vintages, this one has 1975 in it, too. Hide in a cellar corner and you may be in for a very pleasant surprise 20 years down the road. 88-91
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château La Cabanne France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Changed note. I subsequently learned that the sample I had tried at the Bordeaux tasting was not proper. Or at least not the best representative sample. The owners at this estate sent me another sample. Indeed this is a better barrel sample and is pretty darn good! The aromatics remain as lovely as before, but they are more expressive and appealingly vivid: damson/plum and spice, such as clove and licorice. Almost like Christmas. The over extracted aspect that I felt from the sample in Bordeaux is not the case here. With this one, however I do get slightly heady expressions, from 14.5 alcohol that is felt, but the enveloping ripe fruit gives this sample hedonistic appeal. With amazing kindness, the estate sent me a 2014 sample as well, upon my request, which I had really liked en primeur last year. It is one degree alcohol less and more hightoned, with more red fruit. I can see why fellow critics like the 2015 more, as it has more body, but I may prefer the cooler 2014. What if there were a theoretical blend of 2014 and 2015? That would be really cool. In any case, here a revised note for this delectable Cabanne, thanks to a clean sample. 89-92
Red
2015 Château Certan de May France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Lovely aromatic elegance, but again we encounter somewhat raw tannins stressing power over grace. Compared to Latour à Pomerol however, tasted just before, this estate is more elegant and more seductive… so I give the benefit of the doubt to barrel aging to sort things out. 91-93
Red
2015 Château Clinet France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Delectable ripe fruit aromatics and a bright opening with loads of opulence seduce immediately. Yet I detect a bit of hardness on the finish. Barrel aging should soften things out, so overall a very good job! 92-94
3 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château La Conseillante France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Easily among the very best Pomerol barrel samples from 2015, with nearly 20% Cabernet Franc, which lends structure and needed freshness. Although just a touch heady on the finish – 14.5% alcohol – the overall impression is one of excellent structure combined with … sheer deliciousness. Floral, fruit driven and layered and with a long finish. Aging in 70% new oak. Bravo! 93-95+
3 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Duo de Conseillante France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
A great success for the second wine of La Conseillante. Wonderful violet perfume and much charm from this barrel sample, made from about 25% of the production. The 14.5% alcohol is very well integrated. The moderate acidity buffers things well enough, but the dry extract lends structure. Nearly 90% Merlot. Great job and if priced right, I am a buyer. 89-92
Red
2015 Château La Croix de Gay France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
This conveys very fresh aromatics, both floral and fruit, with a bright opening and a smooth mid palate. It delivers the goods in a suave manner, with much lift on the pleasing finish. Another sample, another successful Pomerol. 90-92+
Red
2015 Clos l'Église (Pomerol) France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
When I came across this at the Ulysse Cazabonne tasting, I encountered not just refinement and elegance but also opulence without any heaviness, headiness or hardness. An excellent Pomerol indeed! 92-95
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Clos René France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Bright aromatics, ripe fruit and I love the medium-bodied, sap filled palate, very juicy and fine with a fresh finish. This should not be expensive. 90-92
Red
2015 Château La Fleur-Pétrus France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Lovely aromatics mixing bright ripe fruit and violets. This barrel sample succeeds in blending much power with seashell freshness – at last – in the context of this vintage chez JP Moueix. In many ways – and compared to previous vintages – it still comes across rather big and brawny. By comparison, the refined grace at Vieux Château Certan is miles ahead. 92-95
3 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château Lafleur-Gazin France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Like some other Jean-Pierre Moueix 2015 barrel samples, this exuded a lovely nice nose, airy and minty fresh; yet the palate came across as rather imposing, stressing high tannin and power rather than freshness and elegance. 88-90
Red
2015 Château Gazin Pomerol France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
This sample was full bodied, but subtle, with floral and dark fruit aromatics leading to a pleasingly tonic finish. A superb Gazin, whose ripe and smooth tannins easily count among the best I have tried from barrel. I would say that this is more elegant and charming than either the 2009 or the 2010. A clear case where 2015 is indeed great! Bravo! 92-95+
Red
2015 Château La Grave a Pomerol Trigant de Boisset France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Very tannic and yet there is substance and elegance on the aromatics. I like the palate presence and the power, but easily the most “armored” style I’ve yet tried from this estate en primeur. 89-91
Red
2015 Château Hosanna France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Quite imposing on the palate, and as Michael Besch of the Washington D.C. chapter of the Commanderie de Bordeaux remarked: “These are going to need a lot of time to come around”. Once again, a bit of modern styled 1975 in this vintage. A large-scaled, almost brawny style, an “iron plum” that will need time to come around so my score is conservative… 90-93
Red
2015 Château Latour à Pomerol France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
A mild disappointment. Aromatically is it great, with floral and ripe fruit aspects, but there is awkwardness on the palate, which is very imposing, and even a touch heavy, with some of the high alcohol noticeable as well as rather hard tannin on the finish. 87-89
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château Nenin France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
This has rich ripe fruit aromas preceding a rather opulent and quite sap filled palate, delectable, perhaps just a touch of raw tannin on the finish but barrel aging should smoothen this out. 91-93+
Red
2015 Pétrus France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
This was an amazing barrel sample, rich and robust, opulent yet structured and integrating its whopping 14.6% alcohol very well. I generally prefer lower alcohol balances. As at Vieux Château Certan, I recall adoring the brightness of the 2014 Pétrus just as well, making me think that 2014 is at least nearly as good, for lovers of freshness. Pétrus 2014 may well be less expensive than 2015, even if still for millionaires. Yet it is undeniable that 2015 is great. What else should one expect from the humble, talented and thoroughly likable father-and-son team of Olivier and Jean-Claude Berrouet? If you can afford it, buy it! 96-99
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château La Pointe France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Tasted after Gazin at Ulysses Cazabonne, this was comparatively more “fluid” and easy on the palate, not quite as layered or complex, but with fine grip, making it a worthy drink to enjoy in the mid-term as you await, say, Vieux Château Certan or Gazin, to age in your cellar. 89-92
Red
2015 Château Trotanoy France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
This estate has always been the most brooding of Pomerol and for lovers of a brooding, you’re in for a real treat. This is the Panzer to the Rolls Royce at Vieux Château Certan. And yet, what a nose! Vivid, floral aromatics gorgeously engage you. Then the palate turns very Pauillac like, an armored style, very large scaled and powerful. High score because there is an impressive balance and will likely be amazing with age. 94-96
Red
2015 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
The estate dubs its wine under the title Force Tranquille (Gentle Strength) and I get it: in spades. Somehow this estate manages to combine the best aspects from 2015 in Pomerol: charm and elegance, but also power and structure into a spherical whole. Rather high yields mean a bit more wine than normal, but that should not bring prices down, alas. I recall adoring the 2014 and bought six bottles at the first tranche (a price no longer available). I adore the 2015, too, but it has a higher alcohol balance – with a whopping 14.6% as compared to last year’s 13%. And yet the ripe and silky Merlot tannins and the freshness and structure of the nearly 20% Cabernet Franc blend seamlessly. “It looked like we were facing another 2003 in late July,” remarked the affable owner Alexandre Thienpont. As other vintners said, August “saved” the vintage. His son Guillaume explained that 30mm of rain in August really helped relieve the vines and then fine weather permitted phenolic ripeness. “We waited – and we could wait – to pick at the right time for optimal ripeness,” he said. The result? Magnificence. 95-97
5 people found this helpful Comment

Closing

Pomerol was indeed among the best appellations from 2015, but varying in style. You pays your money, you takes your choice.

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