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A Night of Truly Diverse Wines

Newtown, Sydney

Tasted June 16, 2016 by JonnyG with 471 views

Introduction

We were fortunate that virtually every wine showed extremely well on this enjoyable night.

Flight 1 (16 notes)

White - Sparkling
2008 Agrapart Champagne Grand Cru Minéral Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
92 points
Nothing to complain about here. Expressive nose evidencing sweet saline and citrus notes, with a mild herbal element emerging as the temperature came up a bit. Lemon oil and candied fruit on the palate, a touch of sweetness and nice balance overall.
White - Sparkling
2005 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année France, Champagne
90 points
Surprisingly advanced, though I didn't find it as oxidative as some others. Dense nose of nutty brioche, with some honey. Tart and a bit monolithic on the palate, less expressive than expected yet still very much in the Bollinger style.
White - Fortified
N.V. Equipo Navazos La Bota de Manzanilla 55 Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda
91 points
OK, not my thing exactly but I could still very much appreciate this well made Fino. Very clean mouthfeel. Layers of nutty marzipan. Long finish.
White
2010 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
93 points
Enticing nose of smoke and gravel. Precise and restrained in the glass, with great tension. Cut flowers and muted white fruit. Not overly generous, though hardly austere. Real class.
White
2010 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
92 points
Crisp, mineral-laden nose with citrus notes. Tart apple and pear flavors that softened and rounded out as the wine came up in temperature. Popped a bit on the finish, providing some nutmeg alongside the fruit. Years away from peak drinking.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1983 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile Sélection de Grains Nobles France, Alsace
90 points
Shy nose of petrol, honey, herbs and grass. Less concentrated than expected, and slightly lacking acidity. Notes of marmalade and ginger but missing some complexity.
White
1996 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre Les Culs de Beaujeu France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
92 points
A provocative, almost divisive wine, one which I very much enjoyed. A strong funk resembling apple cider vinegar quickly blew off, giving way to softer apple skin notes and some faint truffles. Very clean on the palate, with additional citrus aspects and bright acidity. Youthful and intriguing.
Red
1990 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
94 points
A perfect fill established high expectations, and this did not disappoint. Came alive after mere moments in the glass, and only improved over many hours of joyous monitoring. Haunting, perfumed nose of plum and soy, with leather, dried mushroom and violets emerging over time. Savory and clean flavors, with a sort of cheesecloth element as well. A perfectly mature Burg of class and distinction.
Red
2008 Domaine Bertheau (Pierre et François) Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
91 points
Very approachable already, with a rich, confected nose of dark fruit and cut flowers. A sweet raspberry dominated palate, with loads of acidity and no hint of green. Grippy tannins. Should integrate in a few years and merit a further upgrade.
Red
2008 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
91 points
It was really nice to have a textured and muscular Pommard alongside some more refined Burgundies. A decidedly funky and acrid nose gave way to rustic, tangy blackberry and licorice notes, rustic in an entirely complimentary sense, with many years ahead of it. A bit dry on the finish.
Red
2005 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
92 points
Approachable and fruit-forward, if a bit primary, with aromatics of perfumed blue and black fruit, along with some pepper. Robust and rich palate, but a bit monolithic for me, whereas it really spoke to others and garnered a few determined WOTN votes (were we to have polled). I would hold 5 years+, but lovers of the style need not wait.
Red
1978 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Soprana Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
94 points
Easily overlooked amongst some peak-drinking heavy hitters, I cherished every sip of this beautiful, fully mature expression of Nebbiolo. Shy, perfumed nose with a hint of smoke. I picked up mild balsamic flavors, with black olives, rose petals, truffles and coffee. Plenty of lift, and fully resolved tannins provide welcome structure.
Red
1997 Soldera (Az. Agr. Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
96 points
Decanted for sediment and allowed to breathe for about an hour. A superb bottle despite a 6,000 mile journey a mere 36 hours prior. virtually screaming of purity and class. Powerful black cherry nose. Pure red fruit bolstered by intense minerality, providing perfect balance to the opulence of the fruit. Grippy tannins. Couldn't put this down. Seemingly ageless / hopefully indestructible.
Red
1985 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
93 points
A fascinating example of the rewards one can get from a wine presumably past its peak, but with so much to say. Loads of brett on the nose, alongside coffee grounds and grapevines. Gentle black fruit palate accompanied by leather, mocha and earthy tones. Quite watery and lacking in concentration, but somehow that seemed entirely fitting. I was thrilled to savor this throughout the evening.
Red
2004 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
91 points
Straightforward and true to form, with a nose of sweet red fruit and a raspberry-dominated palate. Easy drinking, if a touch one dimensional.
Red
2010 Luke Lambert Nebbiolo Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
89 points
Not my cuppa, but still an admirable and well made Nebbiolo that will benefit from time. Shy, balsamic nose with a touch of green. Easy drinker, a bit too acidic at this stage, and clipped on the finish. Would love to revisit sometime.

Closing

Funny that we ended up with only two Australians, not by intent but by coincidence: one was a Nebbiolo and the other (not noted above) a yet-to-be-released debut wine of a promising new label called "Crimson."

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