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Mostly Bordeaux dinner with Bob
Magdalena restaurant at the Ivy Hotel, Baltimore
Tasted August 12, 2016 by dcwino with 767 views
Introduction
The wine goddess must have been very kind to me. I got bitten by the wine bug in the mid 80s while working at my cousin’s wine shop in NW DC to learn English. I was so passionate about wine that I asked my cousin to pay me in wine. As a college student, I couldn’t even fathom drinking a great classified Bordeaux. Nevertheless, salivating over Bob’s 1982 Mouton TN in wine buyer's guide made be incredibly happy. So sharing a bottle of the 82 Mouton from Bob’s cellar was one of the greatest moments of my wine life.
Bob reserved the beautiful private wine room at Magdalena in the Ivy Hotel. Eight of us got together to drink great bottles of Bordeaux. Chef Mark Levy did an incredible job creating a tasting menu that was to die for. Risotto with Austrailian truffle and ravioli stuffed with foie gras were two of the best dishes of the year. The wine service by Nezam was impeccable. It must have been Bob’s presence but the wines showed incredibly well.
Flight 1 - Champagne (2 notes)
White - Sparkling
1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut
98 points
Decadent sweet yellow fruit driven nose, a hint of orange, baked apple with cinnamon, vanilla, limestone, smoke and a hint of cedar. Perfectly harmonious palate, beautiful interplay of sweet fruit, bright acidity and strong presence of mineral. I love the way this has matured. Though quite precise, it has become sweeter hence more decadent in the past couple of years. One of the best showings.
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White - Sparkling
1979 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut
97 points
Upon opening, Eddie thinks good mousse but nothing special. With air, it opens up beautifully. Sweet fully mature nose displaying extremely sweet yellow fruit, a hint of toffee, candied orange peel, apricot, peach, ginger and spicy spices. Warm and round, as Eddie points out, really sweet and decadent but slightly lacking precision. It gets fresher with air. Starts around 93pts but significantly improved with air.
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Flight 2 - White Burgundy (2 notes)
White
1996 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet
97 points
Came from Bob’s cellar. Unbelievably fresh nose displaying most white fruit with a hint of yellow, lemon curd, a hint of matchstick, limestone, saline, light honey and a hint of toasted oak. Beautifully focused youthful palate, exceptional precision and energy via strong presence of acidity and mineral and lovely long clean mineral driven finish. When Leflaive Chevalier is on, it is one of the best white Burgundies. Not necessarily big and bold like Batard, but very noble, vibrant and detailed. Absolutely captivating showing. As a side note, I don't mind sulphur/matchstick note.
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White
1996 Albert Morey Bâtard-Montrachet
90 points
Pretty subdued nose but not premoxed. Very much secondary and not too much fruit showing, may be a hint of lemon and slightly oxidized apple peel. Also almond paste and roasted macidemia nut. Pretty lean palate, strong mineral presence, slightly lacking fruit and medium finish. Good but not great Batard.
Flight 3 - More White Burgundy (2 notes)
White
1996 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles
95 points
Pierre mentions a lot of Sulphur/match stick which he finds slightly off putting. The matchstick actually makes me to think this is the 96 Coche Dury meursault caillerets which is served together. Incredibly fresh, ripe yellow fruit, lemon curd, light custard, sesame and strong presence of mineral a la flint. Very precise and energetic palate. Strong presence of mineral provides lovely tension and balance. Excellent showing.
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White
1996 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets
95 points
Very rich and oily nose, decadent sweet yellow fruit, pineapple, apple, cinnamon, smoke and mineral. I don’t get much Coche matchstick. Excellent concentration, very dense and oily palate, pineapple driven palate impression, good acidity, strong presence of mineral and lovely long oily finish. Excellent showing.
Flight 4 - Montrachet and Marcassin (2 notes)
White
2005 Remoissenet Père et Fils Le Montrachet
93 points
Quite imposing big scale ripe nose, dense yellow fruit, crème brulee, honey, spicy spices, lanolin and wet stone. Exceptional concentration, dense and oily, deeply toned sweet yellow fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, dominating mineral and deeply toned yellow fruit driven finish that resonates. Neither refined nor precise but really powerful deeply toned wine.
White
2012 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard
97 points
Expressive and surprisingly precise nose displaying fresh white fruit, white peach, pear, banana, heavy cream, saline, flint and a slight hint of heat at the end. Excellent concentration and freshness, very precise for a California chardonnay, warm and rich, good acidity and mineral expression, long clean sweet finish with crème brulee as the end note and a hint of heat. One of the best Cali Chardonnays for me.
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Flight 5 - Coche Corton Charlemagne (2 notes)
White
2007 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne
97 points
Expressive big scale nose displaying incredibly sweet fresh white fruit, pear, apple, sesame, matchstick and saline. Incredible concentration, big, intense yet very fresh white fruit driven palate impression, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and beautiful energetic cool clean finish with ripe white fruit and a hint of matchstick at the end. Along with DRC Montrachets, one of the biggest scale white wines of my life. However, I think the 12 is even bigger.
White
2012 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne
99 points
Powerful energetic nose displaying perfectly ripe sweet orchard white fruit, pear, white peach, lemon, curd, sap, flint and mineral. Unbelievable concentration, incredibly layered especially for a white wine, decadent yet beautifully focused and energetic with perfect amount of acidity and mineral and lovely seamless long finish with sweet white fruit and flint at the end. Just wow!
Flight 6 - Monfortino (1 note)
Red
1982 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
98 points
Incredibly powerful and youthful nose displaying so much of Monfortino iron and mineral, also vibrant and energetic yet decadent and deeply toned red fruit, dry cherry, cherry liqueur, charred rare steak, roasted chestnut, caramel, black truffle, rose, raw porcini, tar and strong earthy note. Exceptional concentration, intense and youthful mineral and dry cherry driven palate impression, bright acidity, still noticeable slightly dry tannins and never ending finish. This is a powerful Monfortino with a formidable structure. Incredibly complex and profound wine. Perhaps another ten years to reach the peak.
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Flight 7 - 1982 Bordeaux (3 notes)
Red
1982 Château Lafleur
98 points
From Bob’s cellar. Expressive nose displaying incredibly sweet red fruits, kirsch, plum, licorice, dark milk chocolate, caramel, cedar, leather, a hint of mint, lavender and truffle. Excellent concentration, round and silky, warm red fruit driven palate impression, noticeable but none obtrusive sweet tannins and deeply toned red fruit driven finish that lasts for a long time. It is not as kinky as the last bottle but more harmonious. Excellent showing.
Red
1982 Château Gruaud Larose
98 points
Came from Bob’s cellar. Just like the last bottle, incredibly fresh. Incredibly youthful polished nose displaying cassis, strong presence of lead pencil, a hint of bell pepper and cedar. Cordier funk is quite strong, a bit like armpit and Pierre calls it dirty sox as I recall. Excellent concentration, silky and polished palate, intense perfectly ripe black fruit driven palate impression, nicely integrated tannins, strong presence of mineral and lovely long finish. This is a classic, very refined yet powerful GL with a strong note of Cordier funk. Drinking perfectly at the youthful peak. Still a long life ahead.
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Comments (3)
Red
1982 Château Mouton Rothschild
100 points
Another bottle from Bob’s cellar. Perfectly mature yet youthful nose displaying hedonistic decadent dark fruits, crème de cassis, a hint of wet tobacco, cedar, caramel and lead pencil. Beautifully integrated harmonious palate, silky and sensual, round and warm, perfect amount of acidity and earthy mineral expression, fully integrated tannins and incredibly long finish. This has passed the stage of youthful peak and now showing a lot of tertiary notes. It still displays ample opulent fruits however. This is as perfect as Bordeaux can get.
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Flight 8 - More 1982 Bordeaux (2 notes)
Red
1982 Château Haut-Brion
97 points
Softest and warmest of the 82s. Beautiful harmonious nose displaying warm red fruit, plum, strawberry, raw button mushroom, mint, smoke, ash and earthy. Good concentration, fully integrated harmonious palate, ware and soft red fruit driven palate impression, good mineral presence, nicely integrated tannins and long finish that ends with a hint of ash. A great example of textbook HB, all about finesse and warmth. Drinking beautifully.
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Red
1982 Château Latour Grand Vin
97 points
Slightly leaner than I expected. Classic Pauillac nose, lead pencil, cedar and leather. Also subtle cassis, a hint of truffle and tree bark. Quite silky and precise, youthful cassis driven palate impression, nicely integrated tannins and clean mineral and cedar driven finish. Though thoroughly enjoyable, not perfect.
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Flight 9 - 1986 Bordeaux (3 notes)
Red
1986 Château Haut-Brion
95 points
Beautiful fully mature nose displaying soft red fruits, wet tobacco, leather, caramel and mineral. Medium concentration, silky and seamless, soft and warm red fruit driven palate impression, soft tannins and lovely long red fruit driven finish. Much more ready to go then the Lafite and Mouton. A classic HB, A classic grave that is drinking incredibly well.
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Red
1986 Château Lafite Rothschild
99 points
Incredibly youthful nose displaying crème de cassis, cedar, licorice, caramel, strong note of lead pencil and earth. Incredibly concentrated yet perfect balanced and harmonious, intense cassis and caramel driven palate impression, suave and cool, silky and polished, still strong presence of tannins and incredibly long seamless lead pencil driven finish. The polished palate and imposing structure can easily hide the incredible concentration. Starting to drink well but still needs a couple more decades to fully mature. Even at this youthful stage, almost perfect for my palate!
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Red
1986 Château Mouton Rothschild
100 points
I decanted this at home. The nose displayed intense crème de cassis. Slightly less intense compared to earlier. Nevertheless intense cassis, ink, clove, cedar, wild flowers, bitter chocolate, lead pencil and strong presence of mineral. Incredible concentration, layer upon layer of intense cassis, silky and polished texture, surprisingly none noticeable tannins and lovely long finish. Just like the 86 Lafite, the polished palate masks the opulent concentrated fruit. Perfectly focused and harmonious. Incredible wine.
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Flight 10 - Lafleur (1 note)
Red
2005 Château Lafleur
100 points
This is all about opulent fruit and a bit of kinkiness. Intense very ripe red and black fruits, a hint of cab franc flowers, exotic incense, ink, milk chocolate, caramel, truffle and earth. Incredible concentration, unbelievably layered, unctuous and rich yet silky and polished, no noticeable tannins and the finish goes on and on. Incredibly youthful yet the exotic opulent fruit makes this incredibly enjoyable. The incredible concentration reminds me the 05 Cheval Blanc but more polished. Another perfect wine for me. This is simply insane.
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Flight 11 - Margaux (2 notes)
Red
1990 Château Margaux
100 points
I have never had a bottle of the 90 Margaux that is less than perfect and this is no exception. Incredibly expressive nose displaying cassis, perfectly ripe black and red fruits, blackberry jam, a hint of red cherry, Margaux flowers, lead pencil, sweet spices, caramel and limestone. Unbelievable concentration, intense sweet cassis fruit driven palate impression, silky and sensual texture, bright acidity, tannins are mostly masked by beautifully layered fruits, and never ending finish. For my palate, by far the best FGs from the vintage, combining incredible opulence and precision.
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Red
1983 Château Margaux
94 points
There is a hint of brett. This particular bottle seems slightly leaner and more evolved than usual. Showing mostly secondary notes, cedar, leather, caramel and mineral. Also plum, a hint of cassis and Margaux flowers. Good concentration, slightly lean, nicely integrated tannins and long finish. Good showing but not great.
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Flight 12 - Petrus and Unico (2 notes)
Red
1970 Pétrus
98 points
Incredibly sweet fully mature complex nose that starts with mint, slightly dry sweet red fruit, then a hint of plum, dark milk chocolate, truffle, caramel and damp earth. The palate to die for, round and warm, soft and tender, a young woman’s bosom, bright acidity, still a hint of tannins and lovely seamless subtle finish. This is a beautiful fully mature sensual Pomerol. Absolute pleasure! Perhaps this being Pomerol, it is drinking like the 59 FGs in development.
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Red
1962 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único
95 points
What a privilege to drink the legendary Unico. Expressive complex nose displaying extremely dry cherry, kirschwasser, dry fig, strawberry jam, rose, dark caramel, ash, tar, leather, baking spices, a hint of madeira/oxidative note, coffee and earth. Still showing excellent concentration, very warm and round, silky and oily, still hint of tannins and long deeply toned sweet finish that ends with a hint of madeira and earth. I think this will last but won’t get any better. It reminds me the 68 Maestrano Taurasi a bit in extremely ripe fruit, tar and ash. Though the nose is incredibly complex, my rating reflects my slight aversion to extreme ripeness.
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Flight 13 - Harlan (1 note)
Red
1994 Harlan Estate
100 points
Explosive nose displaying crème de cassis, licorice, caramel, smoke, dry rose, Cabernet dust and sweet spices. Incredible intense yet unbelievably silky and polished palate, almost D’Yquem like texture that is oily yet airy, beautifully integrated sweet tannins, bright acidity and lovely long finish. Despite this being the last wine of the night, it leaves such a strong impression. Two perfect wines to finish the perfect evening.
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Closing
As much as I enjoyed the incredible wines, the camaraderie is what made the event special. So much laughter, everyone having a blast. It was extra special for me to share a bottle of the 82 Mouton from Bob's cellar. A dream come true!