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La Tour Martillac Vertical

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Tasted October 17, 2016 by RockinCabs with 204 views

Introduction

Collectors are often tempted to assemble Bordeaux tastings that feature only best chateau's, and seldom do wines of a more "everyday" level get assessed together. We decided to taste a range of La Tour Martaillac reds to understand the evolution of these wines across vintages, and see how a lower tier property in Pessac could deliver in some top vintages. To say that these wines over delivered is an understatement. Quality wines like this are seldom had at bargain prices, but with the average bottle price in this tasting being just $40 we were neck deep in value.

Flight 1 (4 notes)

Red
1982 Château Latour-Martillac France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
94 points
Nose: right from the first whiff this was loaded with sweet red cherries, tobacco, baked brick and hints of blackberry and asphalt that likely dominated the nose years ago. Palate: Very sexy with great red fruit, spice, tobacco, cedar and mineral notes. Seamless on the palate and an absolute pleasure to drink. Finish: Closes with very nice penetrating red fruit and lasting tobacco and hot stone notes.

This was an opportunity to see a ripe vintage at absolute peak, perhaps a bit past. Notes are based on the first 2-hours the wine was open. Once it faded it faded quickly to show browning fall leaf and very tertiary aromas. An extremely satisfying wine.
Red
2000 Château Latour-Martillac France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
93 points
Nose: Very pure black cherry with anise/licorice notes. Violets in spades at certain moments. All backed up by great smokey graphite and leather aromas. Palate: Enters with a big dose of black fruit that has nice freshness, turns to black cherries, tobacco and wet slate. Silky feel, but tannins are ripe supporting further aging. Finish: Very complete with more smoke, mineral and grilled herb notes as it closes.

A powerful wine with classic pessac markers, made in a richer sexier style. Paired nicely with our Cassoulet.
Red
2008 Château Latour-Martillac France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
87 points
Nose: Dark brooding nose with slightly overripe black fruit. Primary right now with blackcurrant and violets. Palate: Jammy at first but as this sat in the glass some underripe/herbal notes showed. I am guessing some green tannins. Finish: nice black fruit, tar, dense and primary.

This will get better, but the apparent underripe tannins need to be watched. This will not likely reach the level of the 2000 or 1982.
Red
2009 Château Latour-Martillac France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
91 points
Glossy red fruit up front that leads to deeper blackberry notes and some smokey tobacco. This is a bit locked up at the moment, but will evolve into a beautiful wine. Alcohol seemed notably higher than past vintages. I'll check on this again in 7-10 years.

Closing

The 1982 was magnificent, and stylistically had very much in common with La Mission Haut Brion. If someone told me it was an 81 or 79 LMHB it would be completely believable. The glossy red fruit on the 2009 shows promise that it could evolved into something close to the 82.

The 2000 represented a slightly different more powerful side of Pessac. Blacker fruits, stronger minerality and more leather/smoke notes gave this a more classic personality. This has many years ahead and will be a treat to drink in the years to come. The 2008 showed some green notes as it opened, and was a reminder that the harvest and vinification process still can be improved here.

Overall this is the kind of wine that makes a true Bordeaux lover enjoy the region so much. La Tour Martaillac is making accessible, terroir driven, high quality wines that can be cellared for decades. When assessing a purchase of the 2000 or 2009 vintage in Pessac you can put away cases of LTM for the cost of a bottle of Haut Brion. I know where my money will go...

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