Checking in on the Produttori 2004 Riservas

Tasted October 16, 2016 - November 7, 2016 by wineamateur with 313 views

Introduction

At 12 years of age, time to see where these are. Drunk over a few weeks in October and November 2016 (all with suitable food). All bought in Alba shortly after release and stored passively, though mostly in a cellar, since then.

Flight 1 (9 notes)

Red
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montefico Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
92 points
An extraordinary waft of strawberries as I decanted this, but initially in the glass a rather odd fruit salad character (apples, melon, banana - all left for a while in their juices); then a whiff of tar and all was well. Great immediacy. Full throttle in the mouth; real intensity; quite a bit of furry tannin; dreamy sweet finish with strawberries lingering long in the taste buds. Still on the up but a lovely drop right now
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
88 points
Very light in colour - a pale, delicate red - with signs of ageing round the rim. Initially, an intense, high toned nose; much less open than the Montefico. It develops a nice spicy complexity with a sweetness that is fruity but not identifiable as a specific fruit. There's a bit of licorice and something herbal, reminiscent of Jaegermeister, underneath. Satisfyingly meaty on the palate, but doesn't seem to have blossomed yet. Quite tight, structured, plenty in reserve. After some time in the glass, the intensity dissipated and this seemed a little muted, lacking sparkle
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
93 points
Pale, evolved coloration. Sleek and poised on the nose; quite intense and still rather fumy; complex red and black fruit aromas: brambles, cherries, plums and strawberries the most discernible. Quite sweet. A bit of treacle there too, and something herbal. The sweetness carries on to the palate, which is restrained and playful at one and the same time. A structured wine, with plenty in reserve. The fruit is nicely underpinned by licorice and savoury components. Very appetising. A long, sweet, dreamy finish.
3 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
92 points
Medium plum-red in colour, a bit of ageing. Very forward on the nose, quite jammy, a bit port-like; lovely ripe plum fruit and a firm underpinning of licorice; quite Serralunga style; warm; a bit of Uhu; something malic-lemony there too. Mouthfilling and intense, with good acidity to give this real vivacity; quite furry tannins. Super now, a real crowd pleaser though rather burley; plenty left in the tank
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pajè Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Seems to be a bit paler in colour and more evolved than others. Strongly balsamic, very savoury nose. Not a perfect bottle, I fear.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
91 points
A relatively dark colour - an especially vibrant red, hinting at crimson. Dark and brooding aromatics, with lots of licorice and black treacle. Plums, something spicy, a pleasant warmth. A real presence in the mouth - structured, weighty - and yet fresh and transparent. Still lots in reserve. And, to be critical, a feeling that this lacks a bit of shine at present. But that could come with more time in bottle
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
91 points
Relatively pale red, showing a bit of evolution, but bright. Really leaps from the glass. Bold and brooding, with a dark flavour profile, but at the same time decadently sensual. Ethereal but intense in the mouth. Really mouth-filling. Long. Layered. Quite elevated acidity. A bit disjointed after some time in the glass. All the components are here but I think it needs a bit more time to fully mesh together. 91 for now, but with up side.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
87 points
Pale evolved red, perhaps just a bit muted in appearance. Ripe creamy fruit on the nose; a mix of red and black fruits - cherries and berries; a lean cranberry component; liquorice. Light to medium weight in the mouth, but yet mouth-filling. You get the sweetness of the fruit with a countervailing cranberry bitterness; pleasing but not quite integrated
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
93 points
Medium red, a bit of ruby, a bit of evolution. Initially quite a claret like nose, with ripe cassis and other dark fruits, sandalwood spiciness. At first, a bit diffuse in the mouth, with pronounced acidity and quite furry tannins. Quickly gained focus and precision, then that beguiling satiny sheen you get in really good Nebbiolo, before developing an expected ethereal sweetness. Lovely wine and perhaps the surprise of the ensemble.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Closing

A fascinating experience to taste all the 2004 Crus in short order. They really are a very diverse bunch. There were a couple of disappointing shows: the Paje was an off bottle, I think; the Rio Sordo performed much better a year or two ago when I opened the other bottle bought at the same time. And perhaps there were fewer real highs than I'd been hoping for. But the Montefico, Asili Ovello and Pora were all wonderful, with Montestefano and Rabaja just a notch behind. The Pora brought things to a very fitting conclusion.

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