Intense but lively colour, light for age; lovely nose, fresh and youthful, ripe citrus, hints of evolution (white mushroom, truffle, fresh nuts); fresh and energetic palate, light but not drying, juicy fruit (lemon, orange), good length.

Tasted blind. Evolved colour; difficult nose, touch of oxidation, smoky, straw, needs oxygen to open up; palate is better than the nose, firm 1996-acidity, mineral, firm mousse, has weight and good flavour intensity, tart citrus, and candied fruit; good length.

Tasted blind. Light and lively colour, green tinge; light and fresh nose, primary, floral, almost Riesling-like, subtle and fragrant; the palate is elegant and fresh, gentle mousse, silky and harmonious, perfectly integrated acidity, with noticeable bitters on the back palate; layered and complex finish, very good length. Very stylish, almost impossibly young.

Tasted blind. Light and lively colour; wonderfully complex and complete nose, toast and brioche, minerals and ripe citrus, floral and deep; the palate is all silk and harmony, seamless, gentle mousse, supremely elegant but so comforting; extremely long, layered and luxurious finish. Marvellous.

Tasted blind. Light and lively colour, pin-prick bubbles; nose is a bit closed but opens up beautifully, spicy mineral depth, rich citrus fruit; very tight and citric palate, incredibly youthful, almost painful acidity; wonderfully long and layered finish. Quite different from last time I had tasted this in in 2013. I thought this was a single vineyard from the Northern Côte des Blancs.

Tasted blind. Light but lively colour, green tinge, very fine mousse; closed and mineral nose, fresh but evolves quickly; tight and mineral palate, vibrant mousse, very energetic, tightly coiled, incredibly youthful, beautifully complex citrus fruit and green apple; long and layered finish. Does not have the complexity and finesse of the very best.

Tasted blind. Light but lively colour, green tinge, very fine mousse; very expressive nose, a bouquet of flowers, honeysuckle, complex and deep; wonderfully silky and seamless style, so flowing and harmonious, a panoply of citrus flavours; very complete and long finish with just a hint of evolution, extremely long. Even better than on previous occasions, at perfect peak with time in hand.

Tasted blind. Slightly evolved colour; tertiary nose of candied fruit, not really oxidative but quite evolved, retains some freshness, nice depth but no great complexity; ripe and juicy style, vibrant mousse, apple, very flavoursome, firm 1996-acidity; very good resonance and length. Lacks the style and stamina of the very best.

Tasted blind. Disgorged July 2007. Lively and intense colour, correct for age; fresh and evolved nose, good depth, energetic, white mushroom, wilted flowers and candied fruit, hint of yeast; relatively dry and austere palate, vibrant mousse, big and vinous, rich Pinot berry fruit, firm acidity, noticeable bitters; long and layered finish.

Tasted blind. Lively and intense colour, correct for age; excellent nose, deep and fresh and spicy, clearly lots of Pinot Noir, lots of floral lift; rich and full palate, big and full-bodied, powerful flavours, Pinot Meunier richness, rounded and supple, gentle mousse, luxurious and mouthfilling, peppery, lemon curd; fabulous finish, excellent length.

Old bottle, label suggests mid to late 1990's disgorgement. Full yellow, lively appearance; rich and fresh nose, citrus and brioche, lemon curd, hint of white mushroom, holds up perfectly in the glass, hint of honey, juicy and fresh, nice vinosity, very good length. A remarkable survivor.

Tasted blind. Rich and fresh nose, amarena cherries, flowers, oak spice, cloves, lifted, good depth, hint of Rutherford dust; youthful and vibrant palate, well-integrated oak, skin phenolics, bay leaf, hint of herbaceousness; very good resonance and length. Lovely style.

Tasted blind. Deeper and spicier on the nose than the Rubicon 2011 which preceded it, black cherries and flowers, lifted and rich, toasty; on the palate the structure seems deceptively light, dancing and elegant for a wine with 13.8% ABV , thyme, hint of vanilla, rounded tannins, flavoursome and elegant, very long finish. A wine of real elegance, drinking well already but should reach its apogee around 2020.

Tasted blind. 40% new oak. Darker pitch than both the previous wines, hint of cocoa, quite closed; big and rich palate, quite alcoholic, young and strong, quite structured, rich fruit, excellent length.

Tasted blind. Decanted. Aged for 28 months in new French oak, 14.8% ABV. Quite embryonal still, but what a wine! Very lifted nose, perfumed, ripe and sweet but not heavy at all, has absorbed the lavish new oak without effort, rounded tannins, hint of heat, velvety and harmonious, lovely freshness to balance all the weight; rich and toasted finish, excellent length. Delicious now; it would be great to try this again in 2023.

Tasted blind. Very deep and saturated purple; the nose is an essence of Cabernet-Sauvignon, pure and deep, all cassis, cloves and flowers, toasty oak; the palate is bursting with concentrated and sweet fruit that envelops all the structural elements, black pepper, extremely moreish; long and powerful finish. Marvellous.

Tasted blind. Mature but lively appearance; ripe and spicy nose, Grenache-dominated, spices, hint of barnyard, smoky, warm chestnuts, glowing, liquorice; supple and rounded palate, like an old Châteauneuf, mature, transparent; complete finish, very good length. We were all extremely surprised to hear that this was a Merlot!

Tasted blind. Rich and saturated purple colour, very youthful; deep and powerful nose, violet, sweet spices, pepper, black cherries; liquorice and bay leaf on the palate, full and rich, bursting with energy, extremely concentrated; amazing length. Incredibly impressive.

Tasted blind. Youthful appearance, starting to evolve at the edges; rich nose of smoky bacon, deep, cassis and spices; slightly alcoholic palate, medicinal, rich tannins, mouthfilling, cocoa, big and full, powerful but ripe tannins, very good length, cocoa and coffee, plummy fruit.

Tasted blind. Mature but lively appearance; meaty nose, lovage, mature, good depth, cedary; mature and well-balanced palate, like a rich claret, very fresh, tobacco and gravel, could easily be from Saint-Julien; good length. Holds up well over a couple of hours in the open bottle.

Tasted blind. Classic Claret, juicy and sweet, mature but not very big or ripe, slightly vegetal, light and bright, lovely acidity, good balance and length. I know it's a sacrilegeous question to some, but what is the point of trying to make claret in Napa?

Tasted blind. Mature but lively appearance; rich and meaty nose, warm spices, mature and sweet fruit; juicy and full palate, ripe tannins, good length.

Corked. The only casualty in a magnificent tasting.