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Orange, Sicily, Cowan and some others

Chagrin Falls

Tasted April 12, 2017 by Loren Sonkin with 529 views

Introduction

Last night our Passover plans were cancelled as our hosts decided to go to the Indians Opener. No issues with that, they probably prayed more there as the game went into extra innings. I took the opportunity to go to a geek tasting at a local wine store. The main reason was to taste Movia but there were other wines as well. I brought along a couple of other bottles that I thought would fit in as this seemed like a great time to find people interested in trying this style. We were led thru the tasting by Dan who is the regional manager of Domaine Select. He told us a lot about the wines and winery and we drank them in the order listed.

Flight 1 (10 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Fantinel Collio Ribolla Gialla Brut Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio
89 points
This is a sparkling Ribolla from Friuli. Interesting. Light golden in color. A fair amount of medium to large bubbles. On the nose there are a lot of minerals with some burnt orange peel and also a blood orange note. Very clean. On the palate, this is refreshing with good acidity. Someone said it was dry but to me there is a bit of sweetness especially on the finish. Not lot of depth to it. The blood orange note continues to the palate along with a nice minerality. Nice finish. $20. At that price, it is better than most Proseccos but not all that can be found for $5 bucks left. Very happy to drink it though any time.
White
2014 COS Sicilia Ramí Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
91 points
Really interesting wine. Light golden in color. The nose has pine, cinnamon, orange peel and smoke. Slightly viscous but dry. On the palate, this is different but good. Orange peel, slight honey and a dried fruit note. Very smooth. Citrus comes out more on the finish. 12.0%. The crowd seemed confused but I really liked this wine. $30.
Orange
2014 COS Terre Siciliane Pithos Bianco Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane
90 points
100% Grecanico (Gargenega). Med gold in color, slight copper. The nose has some green apple, slightly oxidized/nutty and slight char. On the palate, grapefruit rind and slightly nutty. 11.5%. This was added as a bonus and was interesting to compare to the Rami. This seemed more oxidized/less fresh but maybe a bit more complex too.
White
2013 Movia Lunar 8. Slovenia, Primorska, Goriška Brda
93 points
I love these wines. The first time I tried it was at a bar in Boston (waiting to meet Ron Kramer) and I ordered the 05 not realizing that it was "orange" or Slovenian. It was a pedestrian list with this on it for some reason. I was already a fan of this type of wine, but it blew me away that night. It can be hard to find, so I was excited to hear it was coming to Ohio. Actually, i was told it was the Lunar 9 (Chard), but I prefer this Ribolla Gialla.
This bottle has a ton of sediment in it. The bottle was decanted leaving about a cup of grey/green sludge (more on that later). Medium orange/gold in color. The nose is great. Oranges, slightly nutty, dried fruit, and nutmeg. On the palate, this has some viscosity. Great acidity. Deep and layered with oranges, orange peel, cinnamon, minerals and honey. Really different but so interesting. Very fresh and yet hints of oxidation at the same time. How does that happen?
After having this wine, I thought about the sediment. After all, this sells for $48 and to lose almost a third to sediment is a lot. I tasted it and it was great as well. The nose was virtually the same but perhaps a bit more yeasty (or did I imagine that). The sediment is very fine grained and really not texturally noticeable. It is fresh and vibrant and I am not sure I would decant it. I get why one would. This is such a different and difficult sell when clear, that to serve it that cloudy would take a real wine geek. But that's ok. I would not decant and I would only serve to someone getting their geek on. Fun wine. I bought a couple and looking to see how well it ages.
Orange
1995 Gravner Breg Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
94 points
I brought this from home to add. It can be difficult to find a time to open wines like this and this had sat in my cellar for a long time waiting for the right time. Actually, I had intentionally let it sit to see how these age. IIRC, this is Pignolo. After this vintage, they didn't make it for a while due to frost damage. For some reason I thought this was also before the amphorae era, but the rep said disagreed and thought it was always in amphorae. In any event, we decanted the wine but that wasn't really necessary. There was not a lot of sediment. Golden in color. The nose is really nice; hazelnuts, orange rind, slight honey and minerals. On the palate, this is one of the most complex white wines I have ever had. Just so much going on but so well orchestrated. It doesn't seem to have budged much since I first had it maybe 15 or so years ago. It may have tasted "old" then, it tastes young for 22 now. Orange rind, nutty, and mineral drive with fresh acidity. Long finish. Not sure what the crowd thought, but for me this was gorgeous.
1 person found this helpful Comments (2)
White
2012 Cowan Cellars Ribolla Gialla USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
90 points
I threw this one in to the mix as well. "Florida" Jim (or is he now Sonoma Jim) does some really interesting things in Sonoma. One of them is this Ribolla Gialla aged on its skins. Probably would show a bit better after some oaky Cal Chard but it held its own. Medium golden in color. The nose has nice citrus and bit of peach. On the palate, the peach carries thru but not boisterous. No real oxidation or nuttiness on this. It seems to lack acidity but I think that is after these very strong acidic wine. Once my palate adjusts, the acidity is just fine. Shows youthful. It was very cool to add this to the tasting IMO to see what California can produce.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2013 COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico Italy, Sicily, Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico
91 points
Dan said he thought this was similar to Cru Beaujolais and that is spot on. In a good way. Ruby/purple in color. The nose has deep cherries with a bit of smoke. On the palate, bright cherry fruit. Medium tannins. Some depth. Very fresh with good acidity. Nice finish. Needs food I think to be at its best (it is an Italian wine). Wonder how well this ages. $35
Red
2014 COS Nero di Lupo Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane
92 points
I really liked this. Nero D'Avola. Deep ruby in color. The nose has dark cherries, roasted herbs, and slight tobacco notes. On the palate, this has a nice layering already but it still drinks young. Cherries and dark cherries, earth and fresh tobacco. Good acidity. nice finish. 12.5% seems like there is still some upside.
White
2014 Peter Jakob Kühn Riesling Jacobus Germany, Rheingau
88 points
Trocken. After the tasting we had a discussion about Riesling and this got opened. I have been drinking a lot of 2015 Riesling lately so I am a bit spoiled. This is very solid but it just didn't strike me as great last night. Light gold. Steely with minerals on the nose. The palate has "wet rocks" and hints of grapefruit. Dry. Slight depth. For $20, there is some value here though. Its good if not great.
White
N.V. Domaine de Sau Rancio Sec France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes Catalanes
This was opened to finish the evening. From a 375. Another odd, oxidized wine. Light gold/brown in color. The nose is interesting with almonds and alcohol. On the palate, this is dry. Almonds. Slightly bitter. Would make an excellent digestive. I have no idea how to score this. I liked it but have no real context. Perhaps a dry sherry? I believe it is fortified as the alcohol is noticeable. Very cool to try but a little goes a long way.

Closing

It was a very fun night for me but a great chance to learn a lot about the wines. These days, it doesn't seem I get to geek out on wine as much as I would like, but last night was a great chance. Thanks to Dan and CWS and Lauren F. for the opportunity!

And no the wines were not Kosher for Passover, but I can only assume that if G-d didn't want me to drink them, he would have rained out the Indians game. :-)

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