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Wine tasting in Greece

Athens, Santorini and Porto Heli

Tasted April 28, 2017 - May 6, 2017 by retired_and_roving with 647 views

Introduction

Weeklong vacation to Greece, with one night in Athens, four nights in Santorini and four nights in the Pelepponese. Did a day of wine tasting visits in Santorini and sampled a bunch of different Greek wines each day at meals. Thought it might be helpful to gather the notes together in one story for anyone interested in Greek wines or planning a holiday. I will break this down in five flights - the three winery visits and the various whites and reds. Am updating from vacation so will continue to add notes I have time.

Some initial thoughts:
1) Really wanted to visit Hatzidakis, but the winery was closed for visits until mid May so we substituted Estate Argyros.
2) hired a tour company to provide transport in advance and they took care of booking all the visits as per my request
3) I really fell for Assyrtiko - one of the first white wines I have really enjoyed
4) seems every winery does 3 versions of the Assyrtiko - 100% stainless, blend of stainless and oak, and 100% barrel aged - I always preferred the stainless best as it seemed to be a purer, fresher expression of the grape, but found the blends interesting and enjoyable as well. The 100% barrel aged were not for me - totally changed the wine.
5) Santorini red wines are not very intriguing - the whites are far superior.
6) basket trained vines on Santorini are pretty cool and the fact they can grow grapes in this harsh environment with virtually no irrigation or rainfall is wild. Very interesting to learn about.
7) Santorini vinsanto is delicious and worth a place in anyone's cellar.
8) The value priced red wines were not generally too my liking - a bit too fruity and lacking structure. Once we starte trying more expensive bottles, particularly from Nemea and Macedonia made from Bordeaux varietals - things started to get much more interesting.

Flight 1 - Tasting visit to Sigalas (5 notes)

Nice winery with a pretty outdoor seating area under a vine covered pergola, set amidst the vineyard. We only did the four wine tasting, but I think it is possible to upgrade to 12 wines and taste the whole line up. In peak tourist season, they may also serve lunch with the tasting if arranged in advance.

White
2016 Sigalas Aα Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Wine tasting visit at Domaine Sigalas. This is their entry level wine a blend of 75% Assyrtiko and 25% Athiri - all stainless steel fermented. The Athiri adds a slightly floral and softening element to the wine. Pleasant and easy to drink with the minerality of the Assyrtiko but in a lighter package. Nice but I preferred the 100% Assyrtiko which is more distinctive.
White
2015 Sigalas Assyrtiko Barrel Santorini Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit at Domaine Sigalas. Fermented and aged in French oak barrels for 6 months. The oaked versions of Assyrtiko are quite different, they do not demand food as the oak seems to tame some of the natural acidity of this variety. I found this to be interesting and complex on the mid and back palate but I missed the raciness of the unoaked versions. Our group of four was split, with two always preferring the oaked and two the unoaked.
White
2015 Sigalas Assyrtiko Santorini Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit at Domaine Sigalas. For me this unoaked version of 100% Assyrtiko is more preferable to the barrel aged version. Bright and clean with lemon/lime racy acidity and then lots of minerality on the finish. Perfect pairing for any food with fat content (fish, meat, cheese). My favorite wine of the visit.
Red
2014 Sigalas Mμ Greece, Aegean, Cyclades
This has an expressive nose of red fruits and earth - nice aromatics. Tastes of tart crunchy red fruits with a lot of earthy minerality on the finish. Quite nice and reminds me a bit of some Etta Rosso with its bright acidity, lighter body and minerality. Very good QPR and quite enjoyable. My first time with these grape varieties which we are sampling while on holiday in Santorini.

Also tried on tasting visit at Domaine Sigalas. Learned that they are experimenting and are the only winery on the island growing their red grapes using a trellis system. They found that the basket system was producing grapes that were too tannic. Interesting as this ended up being our favorite of the red wines sampled on the island. Mavrotagno is apparently a highly tannic grape with very thick skins, the trellis structure allows more sun exposure and breaks down some of the tannins in the skin.
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White - Sweet/Dessert
2004 Sigalas Vinsanto Santorini Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit at Domaine Sigalas. Caramel brown color, similar to flat coca-cola. On the nose nuts and caramel and some florals. Very complex palate of mature fruit, caramel,citrus, raisins, coffee, nuts and herbs quite sweet but held up by a good backbone of acidity. Really interesting and surprising - nothing like Italian vin santo.

Flight 2 - Tasting visit to Gaia - winery on the beach (4 notes)

Loved this place, as it is right smack on the beach and a little run down as it is in an ancient tomatoe canning factory. Very laid back vibe with great wines. Don't believe grapes will ever thrive on the island, so they only do whites. They also make a great Assyrtiko vinegar which we got to try. Definitely add this one to your list.

White
2016 Gaia Assyrtiko Thalassitis Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit to Gaia Winery, Santorini. This was my favorite wine of the tasting line up. 100% Assyrtiko - stainless steel fermented. Some lemon/lime citrus on the nose. On the palate, bright acidity and salinity followed by minerality. Of all the wines we tasted today, I found the Gaia's to have the most pronounced salinity. Maybe it is because the vineyard is literally right next to the beach - our tasting was at a table overlooking the black volcanic rock beach with waves rolling in - simply awesome!
White
2016 Gaia Assyrtiko Wild Ferment Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit to Gaia winery. 100% Assyrtiko, with 50% fermented in stainless steel and 50% in oak - all native yeast. The nose has citrus aromas -lemon and lime. On the palate this is a bit tamer than the 100% stainless steel - as the oak has definitely softened some of the acidity. This could easily be consumed without food but would also pair very well with seafood or cheese. Minerality on the back palate is a bit more complex due to oak and native yeasts - nice long finish. Our group was split - with half preferring the unoaked and half this wild ferment.
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White
2015 Gaia Assyrtiko Thalassitis Oak Fermented Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
From tasting visit to Gaia winery. The third in the line up of 100% Assyrtiko wines we tasted on our visit. This one is barrel aged in oak for about 6 months. I liked all of the Gaia wines (my favorite of our three visits), but this is the one I would least prefer to drink. For my tastes, I just don't think the oak is actually improving the wine, which is lovely on its own. In this case the oak imparts a heavier mouthfeel and a smoothing of the assertive acidity. Still pleasant but not as much vitality.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2005 Gaia Vinsanto Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit to Gaia winery. Wow these Santorini Vinsantos are really tasty. Color is dark brown cola. On the nose lots going on - caramel, honey, floral and herbal. On the palate sweetbut loads of acid to keep it balanced, toasted nuts, caramel, lemon, some coffee on the finish. Just a bit of heat from the alcohol on the finish. Really delicious.

Flight 3 - Tasting visit to Estate Argyros - new facility which is a bi modern Napa styled winery and tasting room (8 notes)

A brand new winery, quite fancy and built for very large capacity. Beautiful views of the vineyards and mountain but not at all quaint. Loved their vin santos, but the still wine was my least favorite of the day. Would have done Hatzidakis in legit of this, but they were closed.

Rosé
2016 Argyros Atlantis Rosé Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit to Estate Argyros. First wine of the the line up from their entry level brand Atlantis (fruit is from younger vines). The rose is a blend of 80% Assyrtiko and 20% Mandilaria- fermented in stainless steel. Meant to be served young and fresh. I was not a fan of this, found it to be quite sharp with shrill acidity without the balance of minerality I found in the whites. Needs to be consumed with food.
White
2016 Argyros Atlantis White Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit to Estate Argyros and also the welcome bottle revised by our hotel in Santorini. Atlantis is the entry level brand for Estate Argyros and this wine is a predominantly Assyrtiko with a small percentage of Athiri blended in for balance and aromatics. Fermentation in stainless steel. The color is light, the wine is fresh bright and easy to drink. Typical racy acidity, but in a lighter ore accessible and less complex package. Fine quaffer but not particularly distinctive.
White
2016 Argyros Assyrtiko Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit to Estate Argyros. 100 Assyrtiko fermented in stainless steel - ag capacity of 5-8 years. Medium yellow in colon the nose lemon zest and lemongrass. On the palate more complex and interesting than the Atlantis, bright acidity and minerals with wet stones. Great pairing for fish or shellfish.
White
2016 Argyros Assyrtiko Estate Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit to Estate Argyros. 100% Assyrtiko with 80% fermented in stainless steel and 20% fermented and aged for 6 months in French Oak (3-5 years old). Aging Capacity - 8-10 years. He favorite wine of the tasting for half our group. As with the other wineries we visited, the mix of stainless and barrel aged, adds a layer of softening to the acidity and complexity in the mid to back palate. Very nice rendition and I would love to taste these with some bottle age.
White
2015 Argyros Assyrtiko French Oak Fermented Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit to Estate Argyros. 100% Assyrtiko aged in French oak for 6 months. Aging capacity - 10-12 years. This wine is made is from the oldest vines on their property which are more than 300 years old. The barrel wines are interesting, but for me not as enjoyable as the stainless, the oak is too pronounced and seems to tame the best parts of the grapes character. However for those who prefer Oaked wines, you will probably enjoy this more than I did.
Red
2014 Argyros Atlantis Red Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit to Estate Argyros after trying this the prior night at a restaurant in Santorini. 90% Mandilaria and 10% Mavrogano aged for 6 months in French oak. Fruity, flabby nose - at first sniff I suspect I am not going to like this. On the palate this is fruity and soft with no backbone - pretty tough to get through a glass. I would prefer to drink water or better yet pour me some more Assyrtiko. The group is unanimous in our dislike for this wine.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2001 Argyros Vinsanto 12 Years Barrel Aged Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit to Estate Argyros. Blend of 80% Assyrtiko, 10% Aidani and 10% Athiri - barrel aged for 12 years. Caramel colored with the aromas of raisins. On the palate this is viscous and mouthcoating, sweet but with balancing acidity, caramel and toasty, raisins, fig newton and lemon zest. Really good only to be surpassed by the 20 year.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1993 Argyros Vinsanto 20 Years Barrel Aged Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Tasting visit to Estate Argyros. Last wine of the line up and definitely wine of the day for the group. 80% Assyrtiko, 10%Aidani, 10% Athiri - barrel aged for 20 years. Ark caramel color, complex nose of dried fruits and cocoa. On the palate this is very complex and with layered flavors of raisins, butterscotch, figs, lemon zest, caramel, cocoa, herbs, Toasted nuts and coffee with an incredibly long finish. The sweetness is supported by the natural acidity of the grape. Really special. Winery says this will age for 100 years and maintain flavor after opening in the fridge for a couple of months. Try it if given the chance.

Flight 4 - Various Greek white wines tasted on trip (7 notes)

White
2016 Hatzidakis Winery Assyrtiko Santorini Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
By the glass pour with lunch at Katikies Hotel, Santorini - paired with Greek mezze and Greek Salad. On the nose citrus and white flowers. On the palate first impression is bright citrus (akin to Sauvignon Blanc), but once it hits the mid palate and finish it is all about the minerals. Very clean and enjoyable.
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White
2015 Theopetra Estate Malagouzia-Assyrtiko Greece, Thessaly, Meteora
From the glass list at wine bar in Athens. Found this to be very enjoyable and a great warm weather sipper for a hot day touring in Athens. For me this was all about the minerals, with that sucking on rocks sensation dominating. Some bright citrus (grapefruit) up front followed immediately by the earthy minerals, with great acidity.
White
2015 Gavalas Winery Assyrtiko Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
From the glass list at restaurant in the Peloponnese. This was okay but not as much of standout compared to other Assyrtiko wines we have tried on this trip. I think you can do much better than this for the price.
Rosé
2015 Caves d'Esclans Whispering Angel France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
Sorry another non-Greek wine, but I needed to change it up a bit and the Greek rose on the menu was off dry which did not interest me. By the glass with lunch at the beach, hit the spot and paired well with calamari and salad. More of a crisp clean style rose with some salinity. Color is a very pale barely there pink. Not very fruity and no residual sugar. Light and quaffable.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Tselepos Amalia Brut Methode Traditionelle Greece, Peloponnisos, Mantinia
More prosecco like than champagne - a bit of residual sweetness - my guess is a bit higher on the dosage. Some floral aromas on the nose. Palate is not terribly complex but the bubbles are lively. Quaffable but not a stand out.
White
2014 T-Oinos Assyrtiko Clos Stegasta Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Tinos
From the glass menu and poured via a Coravin. A very nice Assyrtiko, with a bit more richness and mouthfeel than others we have tried. Not sure on the specifics of this wine, but given the price assume it is a higher end bottling. Very nice - would be happy to have again.
White
2015 Hatzidakis Winery Assyrtiko Cuvée No.15 Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
Shared bottle over starters of Greek mezze, Greek salads and grilled octopus, prawns and sea bass with lemon. This pairing was magical - so far my favorite Assyrtiko of our trip. This is a premium bottling of some of their finest grapes and it was really on display tonight - acidity, salinity, minerality and great balance, mouthfeel and finish. Greece in a bottle! Perfect night - great wine.....

Flight 5 - Various Greek Red wines tasted (11 notes)

Red
2015 Palivou Estate Nemea Greece, Peloponnisos, Nemea
From the glass list at wine bar in Athens, first time with this grape variety. Nice aromatics of red fruits. On the palate this I quite earthy and red fruited but falls a bit short on mid palate and finish. Just okay for me and much less enjoyable than the glass of assyrtiko I tried first.
Red
2011 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
From the wine list at the hotel Grande Bretagne Rooftop, Athens. Okay I realize this is not a Greek wine but, it was our first night in Greece and we were not yet ready to blindly experiment on the Greek reds after a long travel day. This is just what the doctor ordered, typical Altesino nose of dark berries and earthy goodness. On the palate this has dusty tannins, dark fruit, earthy loam and some tar notes. Paired great with beef tenderloin. Drinking well now, but more life ahead.
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Red
2013 Skouras Megas Oenos Greece, Peloponnisos
From the wine list at Ambrosia Restaurant, Santorini. After a day of wine tasting Assyrtiko and Vin Santo, we were looking forward to a fuller bodied red wine. This was PnP and opened with a nose of dark berries and some oak and vanilla. On the palate this is red fruited, with the oak still a bit too prominent for my taste. Seems like this needs time in the cellar to come together, but not sure how long this will age as it did not seem to have a lot of structure. Fine with dinner but not a standout.
Red
2004 Estate Papaioannou Terroir Greece, Peloponnisos
This wine seems to be at peak maturity right now, with a lovely balance of mature fruit, softened tannins and integrated oak. Dark garnet colored, fragrant of dark berries, leather and herbs. On the palate this had layered complexity of blackberries and black currants, with leather and and herbal quality, some spice and a lon persistent finish. Really delightful.
Red
2012 Tselepos Cabernet Sauvignon Avlotopi Greece, Peloponnisos, Arcadia
Good, solid Cabernet Sauvignon - enjoyable to drink while in Greece although I am not sure I would go out of my way to seek it out to buy at home. More French in style than Napa, as it is a bit more of the greener herbal flavors side than super ripe and fruit forward.
Red
2007 Boutari Legacy 1879 Naoussa Greece, Macedonia, Naoussa
On the nose, red/black fruits and some earthy elements. On the palate this is layered and the 10 years of age is showing nicely. I taste dark red and black fruits. With some leather and earthy/brambly components. Very nice mouthfeel and moderately long finish. Served with grilled steaks. I would be very happy to drink this again. One of the red wine stand outs of the trip.
Red
2015 Zacharias Vineyards Agiorgitiko Ambelos Phos Greece, Peloponnisos, Nemea
Tasted at restaurant in Peloponnesus. On the nose very fruity and flabby aromas. On the palate, flabby sweet fruit without supooting tannins or acidity. Spit and dump. Someone in our group referred to it as "church wine." Big pass on this.
Red
2015 Gavalas Winery xenoloo Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
From the wine list at Ambrosia, Santorini. This wine is a bit on the lighter, fruitier side with a good dose of acidity. Detailed notes are lacking here but my impression, was more on the meh side - no need to try again.
Red
2010 Skouras Synoro Greece, Peloponnisos
From the bottle list at hotel in Porto Heli. A blend of cab franc, Merlot and agorithiko grown in the Peloponnese. Nose seemed a bit fruity, but once in the glass it settled in and opened up very nicely. Bordeaux in taste with nice balance and some green herbal cab franc flavors coming through, smoothed out by the Merlot. Quite enjoyable.
Red
2014 Ktima Voyatzi Tsapournakos Greece, Macedonia
From the bottle list at hotel restaurant in Porto Heli. Dark garnet color with a typical cab franc nose - lots of herbal aromas. On the palate dark berries with bell peeper and spices and then some leather and drying tannins on the back palate. Nice second bottle to share over lunch on last day of vacation. Would be happy to drink again.
Red
2011 Domaine Gerovassiliou Syrah Evangelo Greece, Macedonia, Epanomi
From the glass list by coravin pour and then by the bottle at Hotel in Porto Heli, Greece. 92% Syrah and 8% Viognier. This was another standout red from our trip to Greece. Pretty perfumed nose of dark fruits and bramble. On the palate nicely integrated flavors of dark fruits and earth, some meat and spice and smooth mouthfeel from the Viognier. Loved the glass pour pre-dinner, so we decided to order a bottle with dinner. Would definitely enjoy drinking again.
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