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A private lunch

Restaurant The Fat Duck ***, Bray-on-Thames, UK

Tasted June 3, 2017 by Xavier Auerbach with 296 views

Flight 1 (6 notes)

White - Sparkling
2007 Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant Extra Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
93 points
Made with 100% Chardonnay from the east-facing vineyard Le Bourron du Levant in Cramant, 50-80 year old vines, seven years sur lattes, manual disgorgement, dosage 2 gr/l. Has matured beautifully, and now harmoniously marries chalky minerality, field flowers, youthful citrus and apple fruit, and gentle, refined, nutty flavours; silky mousse, elegant and seamless, fresh but comforting rather than austere, beautifully balanced, very stylish; very good resonance and length. Beautiful.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
2015 Argyros Aidani Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini
91 points
Wonderfully fresh nose of flowers and lemon, with a minerality that is a putative cross between the chalk of Chablis and the volcanic soils of Tenerife; nice balance on the palate, elegant, soft but fresh, silky, with subtle stone fruits and an attractive toastiness reminiscent of Hunter Sémillon; good length. An interesting wine in a pure and precise style.
White
2011 Gaja Langhe Alteni di Brassica Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
91 points
Beautifully made, wonderful interplay of varietal typicity and wood, relaxed and spicy, elegance and intensity, tightly wound, feels very young, should age very well.
Red
2014 Pietradolce Etna Contrada Rampante Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
92 points
This has that magical balance of produndity, transparence and elegance which only old vines are able to deliver. Spicy and autumnal, volcanic minerality, macerated red berries, hints of nuttiness and undergrowth, fresh and well-balanced, ripe but grippy and grainy phenolics, stemmy and floral notes (rose, violet), long and black tea-like finish. Very individualistic, energetic but there is a certain completeness to it. But it does feel much older than it is. Tasting blind, I could have easily mistaken this for a 2005 Gevrey Premier Cru - which is meant as a compliment.
2 people found this helpful Comments (1)
Red
2004 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Clos de la Roche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
92 points
Quite a mature appearance, little red left; very fragrant and aromatic nose, spices and forest floor, reminds me a bit of the Ahr but the minerality is cooler, mature and spicy, complete and deep; juicy and gentle palate, puts elegance before weight, gentle phenolics, light to medium body; tea-like finish, good length. Develops very quickly in the glass. Drink up.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2007 István Szepsy Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Hungary, Tokaji
94 points
This is all about botrytis and that masculine, steely Furmint structure and acidity. Much closer to the Rheingau than to Sauternes. Honey and Alpine herbs, tropical fruits, concentrated and rich but elegant, engaging bitters, succulent and velvety, excellent length. Needs time to further develop its complexity, even if it already feels quite evolved. Drink 2020-2050.
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