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Vosne Blind Tasting: 7 Beaux Monts (Beaumonts) 1er crus

The Wolf, Oakland

Tasted June 15, 2017 by Rollerball with 395 views

Introduction

Blind tasted 7 Beaux Monts in pairs, including four Grivots ('94, '02, '06, '07) and one Dujac.
The whites and sparkling were non-blind.
A wonderful evening with great company and great wines!

Flight 1 (2 notes)

White
2010 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
90 points
Lively with some bounce. Not super dry. Lemon, apple, and lime.
White
2001 Château Simone Palette Blanc France, Provence, Palette
flawed
Musty but not corked. Palate much nicer than nose: a nice sweetness emerges; rich, very long, and fascinating. Actually yes it's corked.

Flight 2 (3 notes)

Red
2009 Georges Noellat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
92 points
Spicy, funky, but then fresh cherry palate with some candy-corned asian spice and some green notes. Refined, and beautiful. Long and persistent without being overly insistent.
Red
2006 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
89 points
Chocolate nose. Riper actually than the '09 George Noellat beaux monts. Hints at over-ripe on tail, which is very dark with a swell of bitter unripe seed tannins. This second-guesses itself, tearing through a wall and being surprised and almost ashamed coming out the other side. Firey but narrow. Clean in some ways, with a bunch of cinder blocks on the finish where my score reflects an expectation that they'll resolve. Hold a few more years. Try in 2021 expect continues to hold -2026.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2008 Jérôme Chezeaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
flawed
Corked

Flight 3 (2 notes)

Red
1994 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
91 points
Beautiful nose. Linear high-toned fruit. Gets its savory, burr-like hooks in you. And as it opens, becomes dirty interesting. While this has surprisingly more tannic structure than the much younger 2006 Dujac Les Beaumonts, it's also got fruit to burn, suggesting a potential 30-year wine. Drink now -2024.

WS says 1994 red burgundy was barely good at 81 points for the vintage, explaining it was uneven, tough, and rustic. You do taste some of that toughness here as taught vertical structure, but this wine overcomes it with a rifle shot of direct fruit.
Red
2006 Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
93 points
Incredible. One of the wines of the night. The fruit is really *there*, like a force approaching quietly but uncontestably, and that fruit is classy across the red-spectrum with smoke, minerals, and flowers woven seamlessly. Comes in ceaseless cloth-like waves that gained momentum and power over 90 minutes from opening. Went from a little shy to demanding your attention. So coherent and ready with a bright future ahead. Drink now-2026.

Flight 4 (3 notes)

Red
2001 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaumonts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
93 points
Offering more amplitude than any other wine tonight. Savory, beautifully floral, really delivers with satisfaction and class. Roomy and spacious. This is your meat and potatoes.
Red
2007 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
90 points
Great cranberry nose. First Autumn leaves just-blown by a strong Michigan wind. Hints of sour mash. Furtive like a movie star detective. Then a sophisticated tail alternating some fire and bitter seed tannins.

I'm with Soyhead on this. If any brett was there, it actually added some character, and it drank great until the the dragon-like tail, which did actually improve and grow on me over the night. A lot of these wines had a beautiful burgundian funk; here it's hard to say whether a little bit of barnyard and a little something tart were by design. Liked it a lot though.
Red
2002 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
92 points
Another great '02 and the best of the [unintentional and blind] Grivot Beauxmonts partial-vertical. Great juxtapositions here: a stony attack and creamy midpalate; aggressively fortified but gently meaty. A bit of that acerbic cutting sharpness you see in some '02 Nuits, like the Bouchard Les Cailles. Drinking in its plateau with no sense of hurry. Drink now-2027.

Flight 5 (1 note)

White - Sparkling
2010 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru l'Esprit France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
86 points
Fruity-gooey with lots of yeast and punchy with dominant cocoa and citrus. We debated whether this was or was not sweet, reminding us all how subjective this whole game is.

Closing

Overall these wines showed lovely Burgundian fruit with finesse, judicious power, and spice; and within that realm, an array of personalities. Vintage proved important, but not always in the way we expected.

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