Winos' excellent adventure in France

All over France

Tasted June 22, 2017 - June 27, 2017 by dcwino with 1,732 views

Introduction

It may be surprising to some, but Burgundy is my passion.

Earlier this year, I asked a few guys to join me on an excellent adventure all over France, including three nights in Beaune. I naturally contacted Francois Mauss for his guidance. I also contacted Bernard Hervet who recently retired as the Managing Director of Faiveley and I quickly found out that we would be in Beaune during the Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot. Bernard kindly invited us to a couple of dinners.

We only had Monday and half of Tuesday for the Domaine visits. Since I am a big fan of Louis Michel’s wine, I corresponded with Louis Michel and was able to set up a visit. Bernard also set up an appointment at Domaine Faiveley. Miraculously, but not so surprisingly, Francois organized visits to DRC, Coche Dury, Rousseau and Mugnier.

Kelly and I organized the various accommodations, restaurants and transportation. One of the goals was to drink Coche Dury every day, and we almost accomplished the task but not quite.

This is the story of Kelly, Justin, RJ and Kevin’s excellent adventure!

Flight 1 - 6/22/2017 - Lunch at Taillevent (2 notes)

One can argue that Taillevent is old and stuffy but I always love to dine here as I like the ambiance, cuisine and wine. The room is understated and classic. Slightly stuffy and boring with all wooden panels. As usual there are a lot of very well to do French businessmen and businesswomen, a few young and a few old, French couples and tourist couples, and a few tourists like us. The wine list is large and very impressive. There are a number of great finds, especially in mature Raveneaus. The dishes are classic and well executed, although a bit on the heavy side.


Taillevent - Poached egg, snails and chanterelles


Taillevent - Roumier Bonnes Mares

White
2009 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
96 points
Pop and pour, coiled nose displaying ripe citrus, lemon curd, honey, white flowers, saline, strong mineral a la wet stone and a hint of honey. Excellent concentration, oily, dense and coiled. Bright acidity and a long mineral and honey driven finish. With air, it opens up, displaying generous citrus fruit and honey. The ripeness is in line with the other 09 Raveneaus; however, the wine displays a greater precision and focus. Needs minimum ten more years to reach maturity.
1 person found this helpful Comments (2)
Red
2007 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
96 points
Expressive nose displaying decadent but pure and fresh red and a hint of black fruits, crushed raspberry and blackberry, strawberry rhubarb tart, caramel, sweet spices, strong sap and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered, crushed strawberry and blackberry driven palate impression, earthy mineral, good acidity, a hint of tannins and a long sweet fruit driven finish. For my palate, this is evolving like the 01. As such, I prefer the nose to the palate. Obviously youthful but incredibly enjoyable.

Flight 2 - 6/22/2017 - Visit to the Private Boutique of Moet Hennessy (1 note)

I met Stan, the Brand Ambassador for Moet Hennessy, at last year's Villa D’Este wine symposium. I emailed Stan earlier and he invited us to the Private Boutique to taste a nice bottle of Dom Pérignon. Since Stan was in the south of France, Mathilde kindly hosts us. The boutique is located near Taillevent, in a very unassuming building. I had no idea what to expect. Upon entering, the Boutique is a beautiful space. We are introduced to their properties. Mathilde shows us the various rooms, including the cellar. We sit down and she offers the 99 Dom Perignon P2 and explains the vision of the Boutique.


Moet Hennessy Private Boutique - Cellar


Moet Hennessy Private Boutique - P3


Moet Hennessy Private Boutique - Lounge

White - Sparkling
1999 Dom Pérignon Champagne P2 France, Champagne
96 points
Apparently it will not be commercially released. Incredibly fresh nose displaying granny smith, pear, lemon, a hint of mint, or spearmint (according to Justin, which is more accurate), white chocolate, saline, honey, lanolin and mineral. Excellent concentration, very pure and fresh, generous extremely fine mousse, bright acidity and a lovely long energetic finish. Very “Chardonnay/BdB”, excellent but an atypical Dom Perignon per RJ and Kelly and I agree wholeheartedly. Excellent and unique showing.

Flight 3 - 6/22/2017 - Meeting with Michel (1 note)

Michel, Kelly's wine travel wife, invites us to enjoy a bottle of Chablis at a wine club for the wine company that she works for. It is a really nice space with a cool basement wine cellar.

White
2012 Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
93 points
Very ripe citrus fruit, honey and mineral. Excellent concentration, dense, deeply toned, bright acidity and a long ripe yellow fruit driven finish. It is a very focused but ripe Chablis that is clearly expressing the vintage character.

Flight 4 - 6/22/2017 - Dinner at Passage 53 (2 notes)

I have heard some nice things. The restaurant is in an alleyway amongst ethnic restaurants. I am hoping to drink a Coche Dury but the list has none. It is one of the most marked up lists in Paris, even compared to three Michelin star restaurants. The dishes are very well executed with very clean flavors.

White
2010 Arnaud Ente Meursault Clos des Ambres France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
94 points
Very clean and energetic nose, a hint of Cochesqgue flint, fresh pure white fruits, pear, apple, lemon curd, strong mineral, saline and white pepper. Excellent concentration, very pure and energetic, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long mineral driven finish. It is closer to Coche than Rulot, i.e. more flint and opulent fruit. Incredible showing once again for a village Meursault.
Red
2005 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
99 points
Pop and pour, intoxicating very Burgundian nose displaying decadent raspberry, a hint of sous bois and sap then followed by a hint of dry cherry, tobacco, garrigue, pepper, mineral, smoke and earth. Excellent concentration, incredibly layered, silky and polished. Perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral and an incredibly long sweet cherry fruit driven finish that resonates. Incredibly decadent without compromising the purity and balance. An absolutely hedonistic wine that flirts with perfection.
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Flight 5 - 6/22/2017 - Nightcap at Willi's Wine Bar (1 note)

We realize that Willi's wine bar is only .5 miles away. We order a bottle of Raveneau and call it a night.

White
2012 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
94 points
Clearly expressing the 12 vintage character, decadent nose displaying opulent yellow fruit, peach, lemon curd, saline, wet stone, crushed white pepper, a hint of beeswax and honey. Excellent concentration, quite dense and oily yet the bright acidity and strong mineral presence keep the excellent balance and precision, and a clean dense yellow fruit and mineral driven finish. Excellent showing.

Flight 6 - 6/23/2017 - Lunch at Troisgros (5 notes)

We take the 9 am train to Lyon. We rent a car and proceed to Troigros. It is a beautiful serene property. The best meals of my life were had here. I love Michel’s cooking, bright acidity and a hint of sweetness with a lot of Japanese influence. The subtlety, freshness, creativity, purity, energy and intensity coexist in all of his dishes.

The wine list is exceptional. The price has definitely caught up but there are many great buys. Kelly picks the 06 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne as the starter. I order the 08 Coche Dury Perrieres. Then we seriously debate between a number of red Burgundies but settle with the 06 DRC VR 1er cru. After the meal is over, Justin wants a good value red for the pool and the sommelier recommends the 14 Lapierre Cuvee MMXIV. The weather has cooled down and we sit in the garden to try the wine. Justin likes it so much that he orders a second bottle. Meanwhile, I order the 12 Coche Dury Meursault which is drinking incredibly well, especially for a village wine.


Absolutely gorgeous setting, very natural, almost wild garden.


Michel's interpretation of pizza with thinly sliced fresh white mushroom.


Intensely flavored small clams, beautiful olive oil and freshest vegetables.


Small local wild mushrooms and white summer truffle, beautiful earthy dish.


Oyster omelette.


Most succulent and flavorful crayfish.


Perfectly cooked rouget.


Perfectly executed sweetbread!


Beautiful cheese cart!


Magical Egg - Before


Magical Egg - After


Papillon - Before


Papillon -After

White - Sparkling
2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
97 points
Another exceptional showing. Very energetic nose displaying mostly white fruit, strong presence of mineral, a hint of smoke, limestone, crushed white pepper and white flower. Excellent concentration, very pure and precise, abundant very fine mousse, bright acidity, strong presence of mineral and an energetic long finish. I have no doubt that this will develop like the 96 and 02. The best wine to buy under $150.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2008 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
98 points
Very energetic and precise but coiled nose displaying ripe yellow fruits, lemon oil, pineapple, a hint of Coche flint, sesame, seashell, crushed white pepper and limestone. Incredible concentration, beautifully layered, lemon oil, searing acidity, strong presence of mineral and a long lemon oil and mineral driven finish. Despite being a bit coiled/tight, the concentration of fruit gives exceptional opulence and provides a hedonistic experience.
Red
2006 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cuvée Duvault-Blochet France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
96 points
I am lucky to have drunk this a few times and it never disappoints. Expressive nose displaying generous crunch black fruit with a hint of red, cranberry, crushed blackberry, sous bois starts to emerge, liquid smoke, sap, Vosne spices, cinnamon, nutmeg and a strong stem note that adds complexity. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered, decadent yet pure, perfectly amount of acidity, and a lovely black fruit and mineral driven finish. Justin mentions perhaps a lot of Richebourg. Starting to show a bit more secondary notes. A great way to be introduced to the domaine’s wine. My understanding is that this was offered at 50 euros to the restaurants in France.
Red
2014 Marcel Lapierre Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
92 points
Intense ripe red fruit, raspberry, raspberry jam, stem and strong animal. Very good concentration, animal and raspberry driven palate impression, good acidity and a medium to long finish. The only other vintage I had was the 09 and this is purer. Really nice showing. I would love to try this in 20 years. My wild guess is that this will develop like a good premier cru Burgundy, gaining beautiful sweetness and sous bois while retaining the animal note.
White
2012 Coche-Dury Meursault France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
95 points
Expressive nose displaying decadent yellow fruit, lemon curd, a hint of sesame, saline and limestone. Quite dense, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long dense yellow fruit driven finish. Unbelievable concentration and opulence for a village Meursault but then again, it is Coche. Amazing village wine.

Flight 7 - 6/23/2017 - Dinner at Troisgros (4 notes)


Dinner is just about to start.


The same sommelier as our last visit almost ten years ago.


The wine list from when French and German vignerons came to Troisgros during their bike trip.


Beautiful smoked trout.


Yes, please!


The best spring roll ever!


Langoustine - Before


Langoustine - After


Duck with dry herbs.


An absolutely immaculate kitchen.


The boys and Michel.


Beautiful piece of lamb.


Very pretty, between crepe and mochi.


Beautiful and relaxing dining room.


The best wine was the Coche village which was not even in the picture as it was our nightcap.

White
2010 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
flawed
The bottle from last November was flirting with perfection. Pop and pour, there is a hint of TCA. The sommelier is not quite sure. He thinks it may be very reductive. He leaves us for a few minutes and when he comes back, asks us to go outside. He thinks that the TCA note is not there. All of us agree that it is almost none existent. Nevertheless, the fruit is very shy and there is a hint of impure note. It is definitely slightly off and never really recovers. Not a good wine night.
Red
2005 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
93 points
After lunch, we coordinated with the sommelier regarding the red for dinner. Either the 93 Leroy Richebourg or the 05 La Tache. Since we will be drinking the 05 La Tache at the end of our trip, we go with this rare bird which is not on the list. Pop and pour, Kelly mentions VA, RJ thinks medicinal. I get hydro peroxide. Medium expressive nose displaying very ripe dark fruit, sap and mineral. Exceptional concentration, beautifully layered, incredibly dense yet very precise, good acidity and strong mineral presence. Unfortunately the finish clips short. RJ think 87 point nose and 94 point palate, I am around 93 pts. Considering the price, a definite disappointment. So far, the wine god is punishing us. Is this a slightly off bottle? I will never know.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2009 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
93 points
Decadent ripe yet pure black fruit driven nose, sap, spicy and earth. Excellent concentration, blackberry liqueur driven palate impression, mineral a la earth, good acidity and a long intense dark fruit driven finish. The tannins are mostly masked by generous black fruit. It is really enjoyable in a very youthful way but will improve reaching the peak in another decade or two.
White
2012 Coche-Dury Meursault France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
95 points
Our nightcap, almost identical to the bottle from lunch. Decadent yet energetic and precise. Good complexity and excellent mineral expression. Unbelievable material for a village wine. A great introduction to the greatness of Coche Dury!

Flight 8 - 6/24/2017 - Lunch (4 notes)

We bid farewell to Michel and Marie-Pierre and head to Beaune. I call the restaurant and inform that we are leaving from Troisgros and may be 30 minutes late. We opt to take local roads through Charolais, the beef capital of France. We drive to the nice restaurant for a leisurely wine lunch.

The young chef/proprietor comes out and tells us that he used to be a cook at Troisgros. He seems to be very well connected. He recently cooked at Domaine de la Romanee Conti for a few dozen guests. As a thank you gift, Aubert gave him a couple bottles of the 65 Romanee Conti to drink.

We all order and enjoy the Poulet de bresse with copious amount of morels. Later he comes back and explain that in order to provide the earthy morel taste, he has to use dry morels.

Once the young sommelier figures out that we truly love wine, we are able to order the 12 Coche Dury Perrieres which is not on the list.


Amuse Bouche


Langoustine soup


Fried small fish, very clean delicious flavor


Foie Gras torchon


Poulet de Bresse - table side service


Poulet de Bresse


Desserts


Justin and Kelly being funny.


Cool, hole in the wall kinda pub, great beer, bartender and music.

White
2014 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
94 points
Very focused energetic nose displaying only a hint of white fruits, pear, lemon curd, honey, rain water, wet stone and beeswax. Very precise palate, cool, linear, bracing acidity, strong mineral presence and a long clean finish with beeswax and mineral at the end. I typically get a generous amount of ripe white and yellow fruits in Raveneau but not here. This is a very linear wine with a laser-like precision, a bit like Dauvissat Les Clos.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
2004 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Vignes de Mon Père France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
95 points
I have been curious to try a dry Ganevat wine. I order it based on the young sommelier’s recommendation over his Chardonnay. Intense nose displaying very ripe yellow fruits, peach, pineapple, lemon curd, dry orange peel, caramel, honey, lanolin, oyster shell, oyster jus, saline and wet stone. Exceptional concentration, deeply toned, dense and oily, sweet yellow fruit driven palate impression, piercing acidity, incredibly mineral and a long mineral driven finish. Decadent, deep, fresh, precise, sweet, sour, crunch, wax and mineral, all in one. Excellent showing. I highly recommend.
3 people found this helpful Comment
White
2012 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
98 points
I have been blessed to drink a dozen or so Coche Perrieres in the past year. It is fascinating how consistently great they are. Based on two bottles of the 12 Meursault village and this, I have to say that the 12 Coche wines are drinking incredibly well. Expressive energetic nose displaying opulent white and yellow fruits, pear, white peach, apple, lemon curd, Coche flint, strong limestone and a hint of oak a la sesame. Incredible concentration, dense and oily yet fresh and pure, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long sweet finish with a hint of flint and white fruit at the end. This is a hedonistic wine that is drinking incredibly well. It will also improve for a couple decades.
Red
2008 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
97 points
The nose starts to show a hint of maturity. Expressive nose displaying decadent slightly dry red fruits, raspberry, strawberry jam, a hint of black cherry, cinnamon, a hint of sous bois, raw button mushroom, truffle, sap and limestone. Beautifully balanced airy palate, silky and polished, sweet red fruit driven palate impression, good acidity, a hint of tannins and a long sweet red fruit driven finish. The palate is deceptively light but the nose is quite intense. What I love about Rousseau wines is that they drink extremely well throughout their lives.

Flight 9 - 6/24/2017 - Dinner at 1243 Bourgogne Society for Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot artists (9 notes)

Bernard Hervet invited us to a private dinner to honor Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot artists at 1243 Bourgogne Society, an exclusive private wine club he started a couple years ago. It is a stone's throw away from the Hospice de Beaune. Bernard and his team painstakingly restored an old convent for nuns. By the time when we arrive, there are a lot of guests. It is a BYOB event and everyone is generously sharing their treasures. We walk out to the beautiful garden to enjoy the beautiful night. RJ and Kelly are smoking Cubans and Darioush of Darioush Winery joins us. It is a wonderful evening.


Unopened dinner wines


All showing nicely, except the 69 Faiveley Musigny.

White - Sparkling
1998 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut France, Champagne
94 points
Nicely mature nose displaying decadent yellow fruit, tarte tatin, lemon, crème brulee and brioche. Good concentration, good acidity and mineral presence, and a long brioche and yellow fruit driven finish. Once again, this is the 96 Krug lite.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
98 points
Incredibly youthful yet hedonistic nose displaying intense black fruits, blackberry, black cherry, roasted black fruit, strong Vosne spice, sap, truffle and stem. Incredible concentration, layers upon layers of intense dark fruit, rich and polished, stem, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral presence and a long decadent black fruit and Vosne spice driven finish that resonates. The best showing of this wine. Although it will take another decade or two to reach the peak, it is showing incredibly well.
White
2008 Faiveley Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
94 points
Very rich nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, oyster shell, wet stone and a hint of oak via sesame. Medium concentration, showing good maturity, rich and warm, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a medium to long sweet yellow fruit and mineral driven finish. It is getting close to the first stage of maturity. Really nice showing.
Red
2011 Darioush Cabernet Sauvignon Darius II USA, California, Napa Valley
93 points
Since I am sitting next to Mr. and Mrs. Darioush, I get a chance to try it. Expressive nose displaying crushed blackberry, cassis, ink, licorice, green pepper, lead pencil, lavender and mineral. Despite the black fruit profile, there is a hint of green note. Medium concentration, silky and polished, slightly hollow middle, good acidity, still noticeable tannins and a medium to long finish. Due to the vintage, it is not as concentrated and a bit fresher than the highly rated cult cabs. I actually don't mind it and find the wine quite enjoyable.
White
2011 Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
94 points
Perfectly delicious nose displaying light yellow fruit, apple, 2/3 white and 1/3 yellow peach, lemon curd, Coche flint, sesame and oyster shell. Already showing beautiful harmony, good energy and freshness, bright acidity and good mineral presence especially for a Puligny. Really delicious.
Red
2002 Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
95 points
Very ripe nose displaying roasted cherry, cherry liqueur, raspberry jam, fresh shitake, only a hint of sous bois, caramel and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered slightly dry cherry fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a long roasted red fruit and earth driven finish. This is drinking nicely but will need another five to ten years to reach the peak, gaining more sous bois and mellower red fruit. Nice showing.
Red
1999 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
96 points
Beautiful nose displaying decadent red fruit, raspberry, cherry, a hint of blackberry, noticeable sous bois developing but still not too strong, caramel, sweet spices, cedar, sap and mineral. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a love long raspberry and caramel driven finish. Drinking beautifully but will improve for at least another decade, gaining sous bois and perhaps grilled meat/porcini. Excellent showing.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1971 Rapet Père et Fils Corton-Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
94 points
Fully mature nose showing a lot of sous bois, delicate red fruit, cola, cedar and light caramel. Really delicious fully mature wine.
Red
1969 Faiveley Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
flawed
The color was bright with a good amount of red when I checked from my cellar before coming to France. Unfortunately, it is a bit murky after three days of traveling. Bernard clearly finds the sweetness and density of the 69 Musigny; however, it never opens up. The sweetness is there but it remains murky and cloying. Such a shame!

Flight 10 - 6/24/2017 - Nightcap at La Maison du Colombier then Pizza at Le Cep (2 notes)

Justin and Kelly came here during lunch for a reconnaissance mission. The list is solid. There are a lot of wine makers and wine personalities. A beautiful night to be in Beaune.

We finish the Ente and bring the Dujac to Le Cep to complement the pizza.

White
2013 Arnaud Ente Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
95 points
Perfectly focused nose displaying subtle pure white fruits, a hint of pear, apple, lemon, honey, white flowers, mountain stream, sea breeze and wet stone. Very precise, singular and energetic palate, icy cool mountain stream with a dash of salt, only a drop of white fruit essence, piercing acidity, incredibly mineral and a long seamless energetic finish. The fruit is quite shy, mostly masked by the acidity and mineral. It can almost give a false sense of dilution but the palate clearly displays excellent density. Perhaps the most precise wine of the trip, the epitome of precision.
Red
2013 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
95 points
Expressive nose displaying intense black and red fruits, crushed blackberry, cherry compote, licorice, incense, sap, a hint of stem and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered, good acidity, strong mineral presence and a long opulent red and black fruit driven finish. Although very young, the opulent concentrated fruit makes it very enjoyable. We drink it with pizza at the hotel. Excellent showing with a great deal of promise.

Flight 11 - 6/25/2017 - Lunch at Georges Blanc's L'Ancienne Auberge (7 notes)

Laurent Vialette, a fellow Grand Jury Europeen member, asked us to join us at George Blanc a few days ago. Although we had lunch plans, we decided to join him instead. Kelly and I met Laurent over ten years ago. Being a typical French man, it took awhile for him to warm up to us. Once that happened, we have been great friends, sharing many memorable bottles. He drinks more great French wines than anyone I know. He has one of the best palates and has passion for great wine and great cuisine.

We misunderstood Laurent and we went to George Blanc's three star formal restaurant. We soon figured out that he is at L'Ancienne Auberge, a more casual sister restaurant. It is a nice casual atmosphere with mostly locals. It is eight of us, three from US, four including Laurent from Switzerland and one from China.


George Blanc's Cellar


Copious amount of frog's leg.


Poulet de Bresse with morel in vin jaune


Lunch wine

White - Sparkling
2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas-François Billecart France, Champagne
95 points
En Magnum. Very vibrant nose displaying decadent yellow fruits, lemon, apple sauce, a hint of brioche, white pepper, honey and limestone. Excellent concentration, dense, abundant fine mousse, perfect amount of acidity and a long clean finish with a hint of honey and decadent yellow fruit at the end. There is a beautiful interplay of sweet and decadent fruit and bright acidity and mineral. This is still quite youthful and will age gracefully for the next two decades or longer.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
2005 Coche-Dury Meursault France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
94 points
Not all Coche village Meursaults are created equal. Laurent mentions that this bottling is actually 100% les narvaux. Jean Francois confirms this during our visit. Harmonious nose displaying subtle round yellow fruits, slightly cooked apple, lemon curd, a hint of Coche flint, lanoline and sesame. Beautifully integrated palate, round, airy, medium acidity and a long round finish. This is drinking at peak. Excellent showing, especially for a village wine.
White
2012 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
94 points
Expressive nose displaying succulent ripe yellow and white fruits, lemon curd, pear, freshly grated apple, a hint of yellow peach, rose, white pepper and mineral. Excellent concentration, sweet succulent yellow fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a lovely long sweet citrus fruit driven finish. As usual from the 12 vintage, the fruit is quite ripe and opulent yet the bright acidity and strong mineral presence provide nice balance. It needs another ten to fifteen years to reach the peak as it still shows a lot of baby fat. Really enjoyable in a very youthful way.
Red
1990 J. Confuron-Cotetidot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
91 points
Fully mature nose, only a glimpse of dry cherry, a lot of sous bois, sauteed shiitake and too much soy to be excellent for my palate. Fully resolved palate. Even with the soy note, it is not a terribly complex wine. Nevertheless, it goes pretty well with Poulet de Bresse.
Red
2002 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
96 points
Expressive nose displaying decadent ripe red fruits, cherry, raspberry jelly, strawberry and rhubarb tart, caramel, mocha, cep, strong rose, cola, oak, only a hint of sous bois and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of decadent jammy red fruit and caramel, unctuous, good acidity and earthly mineral. A long finish with decadent red fruit and caramel. It is drinking beautifully in a very youthful way. This can improve for at least a couple more decades.
Red
2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
97 points
Expressive nose displaying decadent yet pure black fruits, blackberry, black cherry, a hint of strawberry, strong stem. sap, coffee, sesame, grilled meat, a hint of Vosne and earth. Exceptional concentration, incredibly layered succulent black fruit, very precise, pure and polished, a perfect amount of acidity and strong mineral presence and a long seamless finish with black fruit and sap at the end. There is so much opulent pure black fruit that I don’t see how this can completely shutdown. This will develop for another half century. So much upside here but perfectly enjoyable.
Red
1971 Pierre Damoy Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
95 points
Very complex nose displaying decadent yellow and red fruits, golden raspberry, a hint of dry cherry, strong sous bois, sautéed shiitake, a hint of soy, cola and caramel. Fully resolved palate, silky and airy and a long sous bois and delicate raspberry driven finish. A great example of ideally cellared GC burgundy.

Flight 12 - 6/25/2017 - Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot Gala Dinner and Concert (7 notes)

The weather is nice and cool. The setting at Chateau Clos Vougeot is intimate. The acoustics due to being held in the court yard is excellent. It is a beautiful moment. The concert is followed by the gala dinner. The charity auction sees some strong action.

White - Sparkling
N.V. Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
92 points
Very fresh and clean nose, generous white fruit. Medium concentration, fine generous mousse, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a clean energetic finish.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2006 Maison Albert Bichot Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne Domaine Long-Depaquit France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
87 points
Very little acidity, a bit cloying and simple for a GC chablis.
White
2011 Domaine de la Vougeraie Vougeot 1er Cru Clos Blanc de Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru
90 points
Very modern Californianesque wine, rich yellow fruits, medium concentration, medium acidity and a medium finish.
White
2008 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
95 points
Opulent yellow fruit driven nose, peach, lemon curd, a hint of tangerine, honey and strong oyster shell. Very good concentration, rich yellow fruit driven palate impression, good acidity and mineral, and a long oyster shell and yellow fruit driven finish. Neither as exotic nor concentrated as the 08 DRC Montrachet. Starting to show good maturity.
Red
2015 Domaine du Chateau de Meursault Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Les Trois Journaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
86 points
Slightly overripe black fruit, excellent concentration, and simple overall expression.
Red
2012 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
92 points
I had this from barrel so it is really interesting to drink. Decadent black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, lavender, sap and earth. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered generous black fruit, good acidity and earthy mineral and a long black fruit driven finish. Obviously very young but very enjoyable with generous black fruit.
Red
2010 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
96 points
Expressive nose displaying intense dark fruit, crushed blackberry, smoked meat, ink, dark flowers and mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruits, bright acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a long dark fruit driven finish. It is perfectly enjoyable in a very youthful way with opulent black fruit but will age gracefully for a few decades. This is an extremely concentrated serious wine with opulent black fruit.

Flight 13 - 6/25/2017 - Nightcap with Pizza at Le Cep (1 note)

Kelly generously brings the bottle down. We order flat bread.

Red
2006 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
95 points
Expressive nose displaying decadent red fruits, raspberry, black cherry, dry cherry, spicy spices, a hint of sous bois and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered decadent red fruit, good acidity, nice earthy mineral, a hint of tannins, and a long sweet red fruit driven finish. It is about five years away from reaching the youthful peak. We are having pizza once again and this complements very well.

Flight 14 - 6/26/2007 - Tasting at Domaine de la Romanee Conti (11 notes)

We arrive at the domaine a few minutes before 9 am. We see Francois walking towards us with his signature smile. Francois introduces to us Sandro Khatiashvili, a Georgian wine lover, who now imports wine to Russia.


The Gang with Francois and Sandro. Sandro has encyclopedic knowledge of everything Burgundy. He put us to shame but we really enjoy his explanation of Vosne grand crus and premier cru vineyards.


Unlike the Brazilian sommelier, we simply admire and pay respect.


Domaine's second cellar. It is impeccably clean.


M. Noblet is hard at work. He will be retiring this year. A great man of Burgundy but incredibly humble.


2016 DRC barrels, all are resting in the second cellar.


2016 Romanee Conti


2016 Romanee Conti and La Tache


The gate to heaven


Romanee Conti anyone?


Let the blind tasting begin!


Dear Francois is hard at work!


1965 Romanee Conti - Absolutely fabulous. It is hard to believe the vintage.


The gang with M. Noblet.

Red
2016 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton Domaine Prince Florent de Merode France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
93 points
Medium expressive nose displaying crushed blackberry, a hint of raspberry, strong stem, animal and earth. Excellent concentration, a bit of fizz, round and warm, strong earthy mineral, medium acidity, medium coarse tannins and a medium to long sweet and earthy finish. The nose is a bit different than the other DRC cuvees; however, the palate displays the DRC signature subtle silkiness.
Red
2016 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
94 points
Subtle warm black fruit driven nose, blackberry, a hint of raspberry, sap, very floral, a hint of espresso and mineral. Very precise and silky palate, warm and round, good acidity, strong mineral presence and a medium to long finish with crushed blackberry and sap at the end. This is warm and pretty.
Red
2016 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
94 points
More concentrated nose than the Echezeaux, sweet blackberry and raspberry, blackberry jam, espresso, strong stem and dark spices. Excellent concentration, nicely layered, intense black fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity, strong earthy mineral and a long finish with noticeable stem at the end. Showing better concentration and intensity but not as polished and pretty as the Echezeaux.
Red
2016 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
95 points
Expressive nose displaying bright red fruits, raspberry, blackberry, rose, sap, a hint of Vosns spice and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered bright red fruit, round, warm, silky, perfect amount of acidity, good mineral presence and a long finish. Perhaps the most energetic wine of the 16 DRC line up but the palate is not as sensual as the Richebourg, La Tache or RC.
Red
2016 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
96 points
Expressive nose displaying pure red and black fruits, raspberry, black cherry, cherry liqueur, noticeable Vosne spice, sap, spicy spices, sesame and limestone. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered, silky and polished, good energy and precision, perfect amount of acidity, strong earthly mineral and a long seamless finish. The texture is a bit more sensual/sophisticated than the RSV. Excellent showing.
Red
2016 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
98 points
Despite still going through malo, the nose is absolutely sensual. Refined nose displaying pure decadent black fruit, blackberry jelly, cherry compote, liquid smoke, incense, lavender, a hint of stem, Vosne spice and limestone. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, weightless, silky, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral presence and an intense long finish with incense and blackberry at the end. Absolutely sensual. Excellent showing and the greatness is already evident.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2016 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru
98 points
The Romanee Conti seems to show more red fruit, essence raspberry, cherry compote, lavender, sweet spices, liquid smoke, a hint of stem, Vosne spice and limestone. The sensual and pure palate is similar to the La Tache. This too is very sensual and quite enjoyable. Very similar to the La Tache but with a bit more red fruit. Excellent showing and the greatness is already evident.
Red
2010 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
96 points
Blind tasting is a humbling experience. The clue is from a great vintage. Very sensual and harmonious nose, pure blackberry fruit a hint of stem, incense, lavender and sap. I don’t find much Vosne spices. The palate is incredibly silky and sensual, beautiful detail, layers upon layers of sexy black fruits, perfect amount of acidity and no noticeable tannins. The finish is seamless, pure blackberry and sap at the end. It is incredibly silky and polished, and I am thinking early 2000s, perhaps 2001. Since no Vosne spice, may be Grand Echezeaux; however, our Yoda aka Kelly calls it RSV as he finds a good amount of spice. This is already drinking incredibly well. The palate to die for!
Red
1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
96 points
Another humbling experience. The clue once again from a great vintage. Showing some maturity, subtle raspberry with a hint of blackberry, a hint of sous bois, sap, grilled cep and espresso. Fully integrated youthful silky palate, very precise and pure, good acidity and freshness. The tannins are fully integrated. I am think 85. Our Georgian friend, Sandro Khatiashvili, who imports wine to Russia calls it at 1990. (BTW he has encyclopedic knowledge of everything Burgundy.) M. Noblet nods. Now I am thinking Richebourg. Kelly calls it RSV once again. Kelly is the Master Jedi! This particular bottle is at peak.
Red
1965 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru
98 points
Still another humbling experience, but I get used to it. The clue this time is a difficult vintage. This confuses me as the nose is incredible. Perfectly mature nose displaying subtle yet incredibly sweet red fruits, strawberry and raspberry, apricot, sauteed porcini, strong black truffle, light caramel, strong sous bois, grilled A-5 and a hint of cola. Absolutely perfect palate, almost weightless and thirst quenching. I am initially thinking the 62 or 71 but this is from a poor vintage. So may be something from the 60s. M. Noblet tells us that it is from the 60s. I make an educated guess and softly murmur ’65. Kelly also mentions ’65. We are correct! This has to be either La Tache or Romanee Conti. It is the 65 Romanee Conti. I am speechless. Incredibly wine!
White
2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
95 points
Time for another slice of humble pie! Very focused nose, subtle yellow citrus with a hint of fresh apple juice and seashell. Very precise and focused palate, piercing acidity and good mineral presence. I am thinking 96 Batard as it slightly lacks the concentration of Le Montrachet. I am dumbfounded as it is a 2003.

Flight 15 - 6/26/2007 - Tasting at Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair   (14 notes)


Louis-Michel is making some of the best wines and his 16s are incredible.


The gang with Louis-Michel.

Louis Michel is in top form. His 16s are warm and approachable but also very pure and concentrated. He generously opens a half dozen also of his library wines. His goal is quite clear - simply make the best wine!

Red
2016 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée La Colombiere France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
90 points
Medium expressive nose, raspberry jam, a hint of crushed blackberry, animal as in Beaujolais and tree bark. Very good concentration, warm and round, Louis Michel’s signature silkiness and a medium to long finish.
Red
2016 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
93 points
I am a big fan of Clos du Chateau. Intense pure black fruit, crushed blackberry and black cherry, mocha, liquid smoke and limestone mineral. Beautiful silky palate, warm yet pure and precise. Excellent showing, more like a 1er cru. Year in and year out, Clos du Chateau seems to drink beautifully and never really shutdown.
Red
2016 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
94 points
As much as I love the Clos du Chateau, this is a step up. Energetic pure black fruit, very floral, mocha and limestone. Very silky, already showing a lot of finesse. Really sexy wine.
Red
2016 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
95 points
Mixture of fresh black and red fruits, crushed raspberry and blackberry, also a hint of black cherry, lavender, mocha, licorice and mineral. Silky and seamless, nothing out of place, perfect amount of acidity, good mineral presence and very silky tannins. Wonderful showing.
Red
2016 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
93 points
Expressive nose displaying intense black and blue fruits, lavender, ink and strong earth. Excellent concentration, a bit more forceful/masculine than the previous wines, generous opulent black fruits, medium acidity and earthy mineral. This is a big scale flamboyant NSG that can please both the old world and new world palate.
Red
2016 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
96 points
Very sensual and precise nose displaying intense pure black fruits, blackberry, raspberry, ink, sap, dark flowers and mineral. Silky, pure, decadent and energetic palate. The finish is seamless and unbelievably long. Hedonistic yet fresh and energetic wine. Perhaps Vosne 1er cru equivalent of Les Amoureuses.
Red
2016 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
96 points
Warm and rich nose displaying ripe blackberry, cherry compote, raspberry jam, rose, mocha and light caramel. Excellent concentration, opulent red and black fruits, round and generous, good acidity and very fine tannins. The finish is sweet and long. Perhaps the most round and generous wine of the 16 line up.
Red
2016 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Romanée Grand Cru
98 points
Extremely concentrated nose displaying hedonistic black fruits with a hint of raspberry, ink, sap, liquid smoked meat, lavender, espresso and mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of opulent yet pure black fruits, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral presence and the tannins are masked by the opulent fruit. The purity and precision is like the Reignots but the scale and concentration are much greater. This will be a monumental wine.
Red
2009 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
flawed
Not sure what happened here. It seems overripe and clumsy. I don’t think this is correct.
Red
2010 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
94 points
Beautiful nose displaying subtle blackberry and black cherry, sweet spices, grilled cep, already showing a lot of sous bois and mineral. Beautifully integrated palate, silky and polished, good acidity and very fine silky tannins. It is surprisingly complex for a village wine. Drinking beautifully!
Red
2009 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
96 points
Really sexy nose displaying intense decadent black fruits, 50% crushed fruit mixed with 50% jam, blackberry dominates, ink, sap, lavender, mocha, a hint of oak/sesame and strong mineral. Exceptional concentration, beautifully layered intense black fruits, perfect amount of acidity and a hint of fine silky tannins. Certainly very youthful but the intense opulent fruit makes it so pleasurable to drink.
Red
2008 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
95 points
Perhaps due to the vintage and vineyard, the nose is decidedly red. Beautiful mature nose, which is a bit surprising, displaying bright red fruits, raspberry, strawberry and rhubarb tart, spicy spices, noticeable sous bois, grilled shiitake, a hint of oak a la sesame and tree bark. Nicely integrated harmonious palate, beautifully layered succulent red fruits, bright acidity, strong presence of mineral and a long decadent red fruit driven finish. This has already reached its youthful peak and drinking beautifully.
Red
2006 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Romanée Grand Cru
flawed
I don’t know what happened but this seems a bit off. A lot of stewed fruit; however, it is incredibly concentrated.
Red
2008 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Romanée Grand Cru
97 points
A big scale nose displaying intense bright red fruits, raspberry, Chambord, crushed blackberry, sap, delicate caramel, grilled cep, black truffle, a hint of sous bois and a hint of oak/sesame. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of intense ripe yet bright red fruits, quite oily yet very precise and weightless, perfect amount of acidity and strong mineral presence. The finish is incredibly long. This is a very intense energetic wine. It is already drinking beautifully but will last easily for a few more decades. There is only a hint of sous bois.

Flight 16 - 6/26/2007 - Tasting at Faiveley (8 notes)

Anne-Ceclie guides us to taste a half dozen 15s in bottle as well as a couple library wines. Unfortunately, the cellar is under construction so we aren't able to taste the 16s from barrel.

Red
2015 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Chaignots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
93 points
Expressive nose displaying ripe but pure black fruits, crushed blackberry, black cherry, lavender, sweet spices and sap. Excellent concentration, decadent fresh black fruit driven palate impression, good acidity, strong presence of mineral, very fine tannins and a long pure black fruit driven finish. This clearly shows the improvement from the generation before. A beautiful young wine with generous pure black fruit. I doubt this will ever shutdown hard.
Red
2015 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
93 points
Generous nose displaying raspberry and blackberry, smoke and earth. Very good concentration, silky and refined, very good acidity, good earthy mineral, silky tannins and a medium to long finish. Surprisingly refined for a 1er Cru Gevrey. It will always remain enjoyable but needs two more decades to reach peak.
Red
2015 Faiveley Charmes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
93 points
Rich sweet black fruit. Excellent concentration, very round and generous, good acidity and a long sweet black fruit driven finish. A typical Charmes, i.e. very generous fruit but not terribly complex.
Red
2015 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
96 points
Expressive nose displaying hedonistic black fruit, inky, incense and earth. Incredible concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, good acidity, noticeable tannins and a long intense black fruit driven finish with noticeable tannins at the end. IMO, this will take a few decades to reach the peak. It reminds me the 09 version upon release. As usual in Corton, this is all about power, intensity and structure.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1999 Faiveley Volnay 1er Cru Santenots France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
92 points
Very youthful nose with only a hint of sous bois emerging, sweet red fruit with a hint of black, cinnamon and earth. Good concentration, still showing a bit of “Faiveley” old school dry tannins and a medium to long finish. This will need another five to ten years to reach the peak. Really nice showing.
Red
2000 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
93 points
Nicely mature nose displaying ripe raspberry, a hint of mint, cola, smoked meat, and earth. Fully resolved yet there is a hint of dry tannins. Perhaps due to the provenance, still showing good freshness and fruit. No need to wait but no need to rush if you like a lot of tertiary notes.
White
2015 Faiveley Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
92 points
Sweet ripe yellow pit fruit, good freshness, mint, wet stone, a hint of oak a la sesame and sweet spices. Medium concentration, very polished, good acidity, strong mineral presence and a medium finish. This is already quite enjoyable, slightly riper expression of Puligny. If you prefer white fruit in young Burgundy, this may not be for you.
White
2015 Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
96 points
Incredibly energetic nose displaying fresh white fruit, pear, white peach, apple, a hint of lemon curd, limestone, saline, honey and white flowers. Very precise and focused palate, incredible amount of mineral, bright acidity and a very focused and clean finish. Drinking beautifully but will age well.

Flight 17 - 6/26/2007 - Tasting at Coche Dury (13 notes)

We are greeted by Raphael. He informs us that his father will conduct the tasting. I have only met Jean Francois a few times, a stoic very introverted man that seldom smiles. Bacchus must be smiling on us as he seems to be in a great mood. He generously opens many bottles including the 10 Corton Charlemagne. After pouring the wine, he takes a glass to Raphael as it has been three years since he opened the last bottle. The wine is sheer perfection. Yet the wine that gets me teary eyed is the 96 Auxey-Duresses.





Hands of vinegron.


Coche Dury vineyard next to the domaine.


Jean Francois, Francois and Kelly.


Emotional visit for me.


Everyone is smilling, including Jean Francois!

White
2015 Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
95 points
Expressive nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, pineapple, lemon curd, a hint of granny smith, saline, Coche flint, sesame and wet stone. Excellent concentration, dense and oily without being heavy, perfect amount of acidity and mineral and a long decadent yellow fruit driven finish. Although the fruit is opulent, it remains very precise and energetic. This clearly shows riper yellow fruit than the 15 Meursualt Caillerets served next. Drinking beautifully already!
White
2015 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
94 points
Subtle white fruits, pear, white peach, granny smith, lemon, mineral, flint, a hint of sesame, mountain stream and limestone. Medium concentration, cool and slightly lean, especially in lieu of the vintage, precise and pure, bright acidity and strong wet stone. The finish is clean and precise. I slightly prefer the generous fruit of the Puligny Enseigneres.
White
2014 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Vireuils France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
93 points
This is a village Meursault Les Vireuils bottling. It will be labeled as village Meursault. Very ripe succulent yellow fruit driven nose, a hint of lemon meringue, sesame, honey and mineral. Excellent concentration, bright acidity and good mineral presence. The finish is medium to long with dense sweet yellow fruit.
White
2014 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Luchets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
93 points
This is a village Meursault les Luchets bottling. It will be labeled as village Meursault. Lean and precise nose displaying white fruits, pear, white peach, fresh lemon juice, a hint of flint and strong mineral presence. It is really fascinating to compare this to the Les Vireuils.
White
2014 Coche-Dury Meursault France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
93 points
I believe this is the blend of Les Luchets and Les Vireuils. The fruit is more yellow, closer to Les Vireuils; however it is a bit fresher and energetic than Les Vireuils. Showing nice balance and precision. I can’t say I have a clear favorite.
White
2013 Coche-Dury Meursault France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
94 points
Clean energetic nose displaying cool white fruits, pear, sour apple, lemonade, cool mountain stream, Coche flint, sesame and mineral. Excellent concentration, very precise and cool, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long clean finish. Really nice showing.
White
2015 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
96 points
Really beguiling nose, sweet white fruits, pear, white peach, banana, pineapple, a hint of Coche flint, sea breeze and limestone. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered, oily yet airy and weightless, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a long decadent white fruit driven finish. This is so darn tasty.
White
2011 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
94 points
Starting to show some maturity, yellow stone fruit, peach, pineapple, baked apple, honey, a hint of flint, sweet spices and mineral. Very good concentration, slightly lean despite the ripe yellow stone fruit, searing acidity and good mineral presence. The finish is long and sweet. Another wine that is drinking beautifully!
White
2013 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
97 points
Very precise and energetic nose displaying mostly white fruits, pear, granny smith, lemon curd, a hint of kiwi, flint, cool mountain stream and sesame. Very clean and slightly coiled palate, cool, polished, focused, bright acidity and a long clean finish. This is a very precise and chiseled wine.
White
2010 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
100 points
Perfectly harmonious and incredibly precise nose displaying intense white citrus fruit, lemon curd, wild flowers, cool mountain stream, only a hint of Coche flint and sesame, honey and sweet spices. Exquisitely balanced palate, layers upon layers of subtle yet vibrant citrus fruit, quite dense yet pure and weightless, perfect amount of acidity and limestone driven mineral. The finish is seamless and gently resonates. What is remarkable is the balance and subtleness. It is like Bach’s cello suite No. 1, profound, subtle, deeply emotional and spiritual!

Jean Francois takes a glass to Raphael as they have not tasted the wine in three years. What a privilege!
Red
2015 Coche-Dury Monthélie France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Monthélie
92 points
Pure crunch red fruits, strawberry, cranberry, cherry, grilled meat and limestone. Medium weight, bright red fruit and earth, good acidity and mineral and a medium to long clean and pure red fruit driven finish. This is a really pretty wine.
Red
1996 Coche-Dury Auxey-Duresses France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Auxey-Duresses
95 points
Served blind, perfectly mature complex Burgundy nose, subtle sweet raspberry and cherry, strong sous bois, a hint of licorice, light caramel, grilled cep and earth. Beautifully integrated palate and nothing out of place. I simply assume Volnay or Pommard but it is so complex and beautifully balanced that it drinks like a mature Grand Cru. When Francois reveals, I get teary eyed. This is a testament to Jean Francois’s greatness as well as the importance of proper cellaring. Wow!
White
1995 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Narvaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
94 points
Perfectly mature rich nose displaying sweet yellow fruits, baked apple, poached pear, lemon curd, a hint of smoke and flint and sesame. Fully integrated beautifully balanced palate, sweet and ripe yet fresh and vibrant, good acidity, medium mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish. It shows how well village Meursault can age.

Flight 18 - 6/26/2017 - Dinner (6 notes)

This is a hidden treasure. I have been communicating with the sommelier/proprietor Corinne for about six months. As we enter, she recognizes us and greets with a big smile. As we admire her list, the guys whom we met at Comte Liger Belair walks in. They must have overheard my conversation with Louis Michel regarding dinner plans. There is no time to waste and we promptly order the 05 and 08 La Tache.


Corinne is just about to decant the 05 and 08 La Tache.


Real coq au vin, may be a real rooster as the meat is tough and flavorful.


Simply stunning!


Nightcap 1 - slightly off


Nightcap 2 - better

White
2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
92 points
Reflecting the vintage, cool, lean and precise. Very precise nose displaying mostly lemon and lemon curd with a hint of granny smith, beeswax, honey, a hint of flint and limestone. Medium concentration, good mineral presence, bright acidity and a medium to long cool and clean mineral driven finish. It is a precise and energetic wine.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2008 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
98 points
Intoxicating kinky nose displaying decadent red fruits, raspberry jam, dry cherry, cranberry, strong Vosne spice, stem that keeps the wine fresh and complex, a hint of sous bois emerging, light caramel, cinnamon, anise, rose and cannabis. Showing an exceptional balance for such a young wine, beautifully layered, opulent yet silky and polished, bright acidity and strong mineral presence. The finish is incredibly long with decadent slightly dry red fruit and stem at the end. The 08 La Tache has never shutdown. It remains quite exotic and is now starting to show beautiful complexity.
Red
2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
95 points
My friends whom we met at Comte Liger Belair sent us a glass to reciprocate a glass of the 08 we sent earlier. Nicely mature nose displaying subtle warm red and black fruits, raspberry jam, cherry compote, blackberry jam, smoke, ash, a hint of green and a light note of stem. Very good concentration, nicely layered, good acidity and mineral presence. The finish displays subtle dark fruits, ash and stem. It suffers next to the 05 and 08. Nevertheless it is a good La Tache.
Red
2005 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
100 points
The nose is simply perfect! Absolutely hedonistic yet perfectly pure nose displaying intense red and black fruits, essence of raspberry and blackberry, perfectly ripe small strawberry, cherry liqueur, mocha, espresso bean, Chinese medicine, tie qua yin, Vosne spice, sap, light caramel and stem. Incredibly concentrated yet airy and weightless as it is so finely layered. The palate is sensual and perfectly harmonious. Despite the youthful expression, incredible complexity and intense decadent pure fruit make it absolute pleasure to drink. Simply perfect once again!
Red
2012 Cecile Tremblay Chambolle-Musigny Les Cabottes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
flawed
Slightly corked.
Red
2013 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
90 points
Solid village Vosne. Medium concentration, sweet red fruit, cedar, sweet spices and earth. Needs another decade to reach peak.

Flight 19 - 6/27/2007 - Tasting at Armand Rousseau (9 notes)

We arrive a bit early and Eric greets us. Frederic rushes in and takes us down to the cellar. He is a really interesting person to talk to. He tells us that he gave up working for a supermarket chain as it wasn’t really rewarding. He started working for Rousseau in 2006. He has serious concerns regarding the exorbitant price of the top vineyard and the French inheritance laws. For the next generation, the temptation to cash out is too great.

Francois tells us a great story. After the war, Charles was one of the few growers who was able to afford chemical fertilizers and he used it liberally. When he found out the damage it caused, he stopped, and it took much longer for the domaine's vineyards to get back to a healthy state.


Frederic gave up 9 to 5, attended oenology school in Beaune and now makes wine. Fascinating story


The gang and Frederic.


1929 Original Chambertin label.

Red
2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
91 points
Crunch red fruit, spicy spices and earthy mineral. Medium concentration, round and warm, medium acidity and good mineral presence.
Red
2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
93 points
Beautiful floral nose, pure black fruits and strong limestone mineral. Very good concentration, nicely layered pure black fruit, good acidity and mineral, and a long black fruit driven finish. Really nice and delicious already.
Red
2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
93 points
Per Frederic, no new oak was used to keep the freshness. As expected from Charmes, plush and fat, red cherry, cranberry juice, sap and earth. Excellent concentration, round and warm, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a medium to long sweet red fruit driven finish.
Red
2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Mazy-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
94 points
Pure black fruit driven nose, blackberry, black cherry, mocha, licorice and limestone. Very precise palate, finely layered, silky and polished, good acidity, strong mineral, noticeable tannins and a long dark fruit and mineral driven finish. Displaying good finesse and structure.
Red
2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
95 points
Sweet pure black fruits, blackberry, black cherry, a hint of strawberry jam, rose and limestone. Excellent concentration, round but cool and silky, very good acidity, a hint of mineral, very fine tannins and a long pure black fruit driven finish. I mention to Frederic that the quality of Ruchottes has been really improving and he agrees that it is getting very close to Clos St Jacques in quality. Really nice showing.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
95 points
Opulent nose displaying bright generous red fruits, raspberry, cranberry, delicate red flowers, a hint of cedar/wood and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered bright red fruits, round, medium acidity and mineral and a long sweet red fruit driven finish. Perhaps the richest wine of the 16 Rousseau line up.
Red
2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
97 points
Regular barrel – Expressive nose displaying rich black fruit, black cherry, blackberry liqueur, ink, licorice, liquid smoke and espresso bean. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered intense black fruits, quite dense yet pure and airy, bright acidity, noticeable fine tannins and a long intense black fruit driven finish. More black fruit and a bit more structured than the second barrel. 98 pts.

Steamed barrel – Rounder nose displaying rich red fruits, raspberry, Chambord, red cherry, a hint of blackberry, rose and mineral. Excellent concentration, rich, warm, round, subtle acidity, good mineral presence and a long warm red fruit driven finish. This seems a bit softer and rounder with more red fruits. 97 pts.
Red
2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
98 points
Big scale nose displaying intense black fruits, crushed blackberry, blackberry liqueur, ink, sap, incense, grilled cep and dark flowers. Incredible concentration, quite dense and oily yet airy and weightless due to finely layered intense black fruits, perfect amount of acidity and mineral. The finish is seamless and incredible long. Beautiful interplay of power, intensity, purity, precision and grace. A profound wine.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2005 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
95 points
Served blind, Frederic gives us a clue, "from a great vintage." Intense nose displaying sweet red fruits, raspberry, strawberry jam, a hint of roasted fruit, caramel, cep, smoked meat, mocha and mineral. Very generous palate, round and warm, rich sweet red fruit driven, perfect amount of acidity and mineral and a long sweet red fruit driven finish. My guess is the 99 vintage and CSJ as the fruit expression is not as polished as Chambertin or Chambertin Clos de Beze. Kelly, Mr. Yoda, correctly calls the 05 vintage and the vineyard. Bravo! This is an excellent wine that has reached the first stage of youthful peak.

Flight 20 - 6/27/2007 - Tasting at Frederic Mugnier (8 notes)

I last visited the domaine over ten years ago. Frederic is a serious and quiet gentleman. His wines are very precise and pure. I am particularly enamored by the 16 Amoureuses. He tells us he loves the style of Rousseau. He also loves Roumier and is a good friend to Christophe Roumier.


The gang with Frederic Mugnier.

Red
2016 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
91 points
Bright red fruit, raspberry, strawberry, lavender, tree bark and earth. Medium concentration, round, good acidity and mineral, and a medium to long finish. A solid wine.
Red
2016 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
93 points
More floral and refined compare to the Chambolle, ripe black fruit, sap and mineral. Very good concentration, nicely layered, silky and polished, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a medium to long finish. Already showing well.
Red
2016 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
95 points
Big scale decadent red fruit driven nose, red cherry, strawberry, a hint of crushed blackberry, licorice, mushroom, dark spices and earth. Excellent concentration, good acidity, noticeable tannins and a long sweet red fruit driven finish. It is a big scale, slightly masculine style of wine. Will need a couple decades to reach peak.
Red
2016 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
97 points
According to Frederic, as thin as 4 inches of top clay soil then limestone which can be attributed to “fragile” yet intense expression. Delicate pure black fruit, crushed blackberries, ink, refined floral note, incense and limestone. Already seamless and showing unbelievable finesse. Exceptional showing.
Red
2016 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
97 points
Combining the finesse and purity of Amoureuses with the intensity and concentration of Bonnes Mares. Very refined yet incredibly concentrated nose displaying essence of blackberry, liquid smoke, sap, incense, lavender and mineral. Exceptional concentration, very precise and detailed palate, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral presence and a long intense black fruit driven finish. Excellent showing.
Red
2015 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
93 points
Expressive nose displaying intense blackberry, black cherry, raspberry liqueur, ink, smoke and earth. Excellent concentration, surprisingly refined and polished, round and generous black fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral, noticeable sweet tannins and a long dark fruit driven finish. This is a generous fruit driven wine that will be approachable upon release. This is a sort of Burgundy that a a Cali pinot noir lover will enjoy.
Red
2014 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
93 points
Served blind, very refined nose displaying intense black fruit, ink, incense, sap and earth. Very generous black fruit driven palate, nicely layered fruit, good mineral presence, silky tannins and a long sweet black fruit driven finish. I am thinking CM Fuees. Excellent showing. Would love to add this to a big boy Burgundy blind tasting.
White
2014 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
93 points
Succulent sweet yellow fruit, peach, pineapple, lemon curd, honey and limestone. Excellent concentration, ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long decadent yellow fruit and acid driven finish. It strangely reminds me the Morey St Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants in ripeness, density and bright acidity. Very good showing.

Flight 21 - 6/27/2007 - Lunch at Chez Guy (1 note)

My beef cheek stew cooked with Pinot noir for 12 hours is good. Justin orders pigeon. I warn him that pigeon is very gamey. He starts with the legs and proclaims that it is not gamey. Then he proceeds with the rare breast. He regrets ordering the dish. RJ’s Bresse chicken liver is also very gamey. The meal is mediocre but at least the wine is good. Francois has a meeting and so we bid farewell. Soon after, we head to the Dijon train station.

Red
2013 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
90 points
Very ripe red fruit driven nose, strawberry jam, dry cherry, cherry liqueur, raw white mushroom, cedar, cola, cinnamon and earth. Excellent concentration, slightly hollow middle, good mineral expression, medium acidity and a long sweet red fruit and cedar driven finish. This will need another decade to reach its youthful peak.
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Flight 22 - 6/27/2007 - Dinner at La Tour d'Argent (3 notes)


Beautiful view


Another beautiful View


1988 Roumier Bonnes Mares - Incredible


Amuse Bouche


Langouste aka Spiny Lobster


Best Foie Gras of my life, a whole foie gras slowly roasted


Best Foie Gras of my life


"Real" baby pig - two servings ordered, but received three. A great dish!


The second dish - crispy skin with dark meat. A very good dish.


The third dish - au pied de cochon would be my guess. A great dish!

White
2010 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
94 points
Rich yet energetic and precise nose displaying decadent white fruit, pear, granny smith, a hint of lemon, saline, rain, wet rock and strong honey. Excellent concentration, fresh pear and mineral driven palate impression, bright acidity and a long clean energetic finish with a strong honey note and mineral at the end. Drinking beautifully in a very youthful way.
Red
1988 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
98 points
Fully mature color with only a hint of red in the center and clear brown at the rim. Expressive fully mature complex nose displaying ripe slight dry red fruits, raspberry water, raspberry jam, dry red cherry, strong sous bois, black truffle, cep, cinnamon, cola and earth. Fully resolved beautifully balanced palate, nicely layered, decadent raspberry and earth driven palate impression, bright acidity, fully integrated tannins and a seamless finish that resonates with decadent raspberry, truffle and sous bois. This is why we fall madly in love with and seek perfectly mature Burgundies.
Red
1996 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
96 points
Beautiful fully mature Burgundian nose displaying dry cherry, strawberry, sous bois, smoked meat, limestone and cinnamon. Fully integrated silky palate, nicely layered sweet red cherry fruit, good acidity, fully resolved tannins and a long sweet finish. Very Burgundian with a hint of smoke, perfectly complementing a "true" baby pig dish. Really enjoyable.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Closing

Francois made all our visits possible, and I can't thank him enough. Ever since I met Francois over ten years ago, he has been a great mentor and friend. We all agreed this is the greatest wine trip of our lives!

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