Fully mature and ready, the '95 Cristal is warm and inviting. Gingery and fruity, very slightly low acidity, easy to drink. Not at all sweet or cloying.

A less than sterling example of the vintage, this bottle of Palmer was unremarkable. Not flawed but lacks flair, fruit and energy. Lighter than the '89 today and less interesting and seemingly much older than it is. Perhaps an off bottle.

Fabulous Palmer now in early maturity, sweet and fragrant, classic and balanced. Rounded tannins. Mulberry and plum. Softer than many '89s and all the better for it, surely one of the best wines of the vintage. Beautiful balance. An unmitigated success.

A rather disappointing showing for what should be one of the best vintages for Palmer. On the positive side there's excellent complexity to its fully mature flavors. Acidity is a bit high, though, which makes the texture thin. Still, it's fine but more intellectually pleasing than pleasurable.

Thanks to DrinkBordeaux for adding this vintage of Palmer for the vertical since I don't have any and haven't tasted it in years, frightened by its mediocre reputation. If this bottle is representative, it is deserved. Shockingly austere and charmless for an '82, a vintage which has produced many voluptuous examples which have evolved very well. Even though our sample of the '83 was not pristine it was clear that the younger of the pair was more successful. The '82 seems unripe and even a touch green.

I have been fortunate to have enjoyed many bottles of 1970 Palmer in the past since it was one of the first Bordeaux I pursued since the late '70s. But perhaps now it is time to bid it a fond farewell. This bottle was representative of how it has been showing lately. It's drying out and the acidity is too prominent, even from a well preserved bottle. So sad. Maybe perfect bottles still in the Mahler-Besse cellars are better, I hope so.

A great example of '83 Margaux, purchased by Hugh on release. It behaved more like luscious '82, ripe, round, sweet, fragrant and generous. Great mouth feel. Fully mature yet still youthful. Far superior to the '83 Palmer on this night which is not always or even usually the case.

This is why vertical tastings are so interesting. Especially compared to the lackluster '70, this bottle of '66 was sensational and nearly the equal of the legendary '61. This is what old Bordeaux is all about and why you can be rewarded for great patience (or a lucky auction purchase). Arguably the best preserved Bordeaux of the vintage along with Latour. What is so striking is its phenomenal complexity of myriad dark berry fruits, savory tannin and juicy acidity. It's impressive when great age adds layers of mystery instead of just subtracting the fruit.

It's a huge relief and a great pleasure when a much treasured wine delivers on its promise, so great are the expectations. What is really annoying though is when the label doesn't provide all the relevant information. Only upon removing the capsule to extract the cork does it reveal that it was recorked in 1998. (This bottle was ex-cellar Mahler-Besse 2007.) In retrospect I suppose it was obviously not the original since the level was mid neck, too good to be true combined with the fact that Mähler Besse recorks their wines about every 20 years. Nevertheless, it was thrilling, so incredibly sweet and deeply fruity. As it sits in the glass, it becomes more mellow while yielding none of its structural integrity. A rare treat from the greatest vintage of the twentieth century. Could unretouched bottles be as good?