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CellaRaid 2017

Rancho de Los Olivos

Tasted December 10, 2017 by JonnyG with 670 views

Introduction

The first of what should become an annual cellar raid we hosted for my tasting group and families.

Flight 1 (1 note)

Rosé - Sparkling
2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut France, Champagne
92 points
From a magnum. Taut, energetic, with tight raspberry flavor and a touch of cinnamon; a bit dense as opposed to nuanced but high quality stuff that should improve from here and last two decades more.

Flight 2 (2 notes)

White
2012 Miani Chardonnay Baracca Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
91 points
Rich, ripe, with some butter and lemon held in check by a nice acidity backbone. Improved as the wine neared room temperature, as the aromatics make a big difference here.
White
2013 Y de Yquem France, Bordeaux
93 points
From a magnum. A bit dense and tight-knit, which more time will remedy. Intense grass, tangerine and candied tropical fruit notes, along with some ginger and other elusive spices I couldn't pin down. Nowhere near peak.

Flight 3 (1 note)

Orange
2001 Gravner Breg Anfora Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
92 points
From a magnum. Not a wine about which anyone can be unmoved or indifferent. Pinning it down is another matter! Served at cellar temperature. A heavy style of orange wine, portrays itself like a red wine, more or less, yet is truly singular in the end. Orange peel and strawberry on the nose, but something stalky on the palate, maybe rhubarb, kind of chalky too. Expansive flavors, very long finish. Fascinating.

Flight 4 (2 notes)

Red
1999 Soldera (Az. Agr. Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
93 points
Pop 'n pour, and didn't seem to suffer from the lack of a decant. High toned and vibrant red fruit, both sweet and floral. Seamless, no edges, with fully integrated tannins. Seemed a touch clipped on the finish relative to another bottle I had a few months ago.
Red
2004 Miani Friuli Merlot Buri Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli
96 points
Decanted for ~6 hours and still showed as youthful. Elegant, energetic and powerful, with concentrated sweet red fruit, some licorice and eucalyptus, and compact pepper on the rear palate. So much structure, in perfect harmony with the intense fruit. The finest of fine grained tannins. Explosive finish.

Flight 5 (1 note)

Red
2005 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
93 points
Underperformed a recent bottle bought at the same time -- kind of puzzling. Black and blue fruit, some fig, truffle and red meat. Minerality gives the wine lift, especially on the rear palate, though a colleague perceives this as a somewhat distracting vitamin note.
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Flight 6 (3 notes)

Red
1989 Château Palmer France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
flawed
A corked magnum, grrr.
Red
1989 Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
98 points
From a magnum. Everything I look for in a mature Bordeaux drinking at peak. Opened ~6 hours early, not decanted as the small sip I took made it clear we were good to go. What an array of flavors: leather, truffle oil, plums, cassis, tobacco leaf, earthy and elegant at the same time. Full-bodied, low with silky tannins, a smooth texture and a long, caressing finish. Might some interesting tertiary characteristics develop in time? I suppose, but hard to see beating last night's performance.
3 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Giuseppe Quintarelli Cabernet Alzero Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
90 points
From a magnum. 6+-hour decant. Such a challenging wine, and for me not one to which I would migrate back very eagerly, despite the evident quality. Intense, port-like nose. Rich, ripe red fruit with abundant polish, veering toward the jammy. I could detail a host of specific flavors but I found that the array blurred into a sort of amalgamation that was less than the sum of its parts -- missing that special something I guess. Did improve with air, so perhaps just too young?
1 person found this helpful Comment

Closing

A strong success with a long list of highlights. Here's to next year's event!

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