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Saturday lunch with Eddie
Masseria, DC
Tasted December 9, 2017 by dcwino with 455 views
Introduction
Eddie mentioned that he will be in DC. Drinking with Eddie is always a pleasure as despite drinking better than anyone I know, he is just one of the guys and never takes himself too seriously. I contacted the usual suspects for a leisurely lunch. The theme was Barolo and Burgundy. It was a challenge to find a venue but Pierre came through and Chef Stefanelli at Masseria opened just for us. The chef did an incredible job preparing an eight course meal. The wine service by David and John was perfect.
Just for us!
The usual suspects!
Flight 1 - Champagne (1 note)
The soldiers!
John at work.
Bread service, delicious savory doughnuts.
White - Sparkling
1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut
98 points
Absolutely gorgeous nose displaying subtle yet decadent red fruit with a hint of yellow, red currant, tarte tatin, raspberry water, brioche, honey, cinnamon, honey and cooper. Perfectly harmonious palate, very refined and polished, very fine generous mousse, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long subtle yet decadent red fruit driven finish. The 96 Krug have been drinking incredibly well for the past couple of years, i.e. combining the energy, freshness and generous mousse of the youth with the decadence and sweetness of the mature champagne.
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Flight 2 - White Burgundy - Flight 1 (3 notes)
Generous amount of Beluga and Burrata.
White
1993 Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet
97 points
Absolutely gorgeous nose displaying sweet opulent ripe yellow fruit, peach and lemon curd, lanolin, a hint of petrol, oyster, vanilla, cedar, smoke, light honey and mineral. Excellent concentration, rich and oily yet airy and precise, low acidity which is typical of the vintage, medium mineral and a long rich opulent sweet yellow fruit driven finish. There is a hint of cedar/oak even after twenty some years which is not bothersome. Despite lacking acidity, it remains energetic, pure and precise which is truly remarkable. For my palate, this is richer than the Batard. This is why I love mature white Burgundy.
White
1993 Domaine Michel Niellon Bâtard-Montrachet
96 points
Another remarkably youthful nose displaying decadent yellow fruit, lemon curd, honey, ginger, spicy spices, vanilla, cedar/oak, smoke and a hint of flint. Beautifully integrated harmonious palate, nicely layered decadent yellow fruit, rich and oily yet pure and precise, medium acidity, good mineral expression and a long sweet yellow fruit and vanilla driven finish with a hint of oak/cedar at the end. For my palate, the Chevalier is even richer. Excellent showing.
Flight 3 - White Burgundy - Flight 2 (2 notes)
A whole lobe of Foie Gras
Artichoke and Foie Gras soup, incredibly rich and delicious. The 01 Boillot Montrachet adding nice acidity and body.
White
2011 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne
97 points
Very pure and precise nose displaying fresh white fruit, pear, white peach, granny smith, lemon, a hint of Coche flint, sesame, cool mountain stream and limestone. Very clean and pure, fresh white fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long seamless fresh white fruit driven finish. This has gained weight compare to the last bottle drunk in January, 2005. This is very pure and energetic. Really delicious.
White
2007 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet
97 points
As usual, very opulent and exotic nose displaying decadent ripe yellow fruit, yellow peach, peach pie, apricot, cremes brulee, vanilla and light honey. Rich and oily, opulent yellow fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity and mineral, and a long rich yellow fruit and honey driven finish. Alan’s first DRC Montrachet and it is quite different than what he expected. Based on my limited experiences, DRC Montrachets always exotic and opulent. Excellent showing and drinking beautifully but not sure how it will age.
Flight 4 - Red Burgundy - Flight 1 (2 notes)
Lobster and tripe cooked in red wine
Red
Red
1957 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
91 points
Slightly low fill. Shy nose displaying remnant of slightly dry shy red fruit, dry cherry, a hint of raspberry jam, raw button mushroom, sous bois and strong soy. Fully resolved palate, mostly faded red fruit, good acidity and a medium long finish with a hint of dry cherry and strong soy at the end. Past its prime but the faded yet very sweet fruit makes this enjoyable.
Flight 5 - Red Burgundy - Flight 2 (3 notes)
Cestnut Caramelle
Red
1966 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
93 points
Very good appearance. Medium expressive earthy nose displaying shy red fruit, dry cherries, strawberry soda, rose, soy, grilled cep and earth. Fully integrated palate, dry cherry and grill cep driven palate impression, slightly lean and angular, medium acidity, strong earthy mineral and a medium long dry cherry and earthy driven finish. Perhaps a bit tired, no great wines, only great bottles.
Red
1969 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche
flawed
My bad luck with the 69 La Tache continues. Some think it is corked, musty but perhaps not the cork TCA. Either way, flawed.
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Red
1990 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
92 points
As usual very ripe red fruit, cherry pie, blackberry jelly, dark spices, sap and earth. Excellent concentration, packed jammy red and black fruit, good acidity, strong mineral, still noticeable slightly dry tannins and a medium finish. I find it to be too ripe and rustic and still don’t see the future promising. Only time will tell.
Flight 6 - Piedmont - Flight 1 + Burgundy (3 notes)
Tagliolini
Red
1964 Giacomo Conterno Barolo
92 points
Much paler than the 64 Gaja barbaresco, shy red fruit, cherry water, dry cherry, roasted chestnut, leather, caramel, rose, a hint of va, madeira and earth. Fully integrated palate, soft and a bit watery, subtle dry red fruit, medium acidity, fully integrated tannins and a medium long subtle red fruit and madeira driven finish with a hint of va at the end. Although there are a few positive TNs, my experiences have been good but not great and I am not a buyer.
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Red
1964 Gaja Barbaresco
93 points
Expressive nose displaying ripe slightly dry red fruits, dry cherry, fruit cake, anise, grilled meat, rose, leather, tar and earth. Still showing excellent concentration, generous dry cherry and caramel driven palate impression, good acidity, strong earthy mineral and a long deeply toned finish with dry cherry and leather at the end. The nose and palate are generous but not pure and a bit straightforward. I suspect a bit of Barbera.
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Red
1969 Faiveley Musigny
92 points
Stewed red fruit, dry cherry, strawberry, tomato paste, soy, licorice, rose and earth. Fully integrated palate, sweet slightly dry red fruit, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral and a medium to long stewed red fruit and soy driven finish. Too much soy, past its prime.
Flight 7 - Red Burgundy - Flight 3 (3 notes)
Magret
Red
1957 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
95 points
How often do you get to try the 57 Vogue Musigny twice?! Eddie thought the first bottle didn’t show well so he generously opens the second bottle with a better fill. Quite delicate but very complex nose displaying essence of raspberry, light caramel, dry apricot, strong sous bois, a hint of soy, grilled fat and earth. Fully integrated delicate palate, silky, fluid and airy, medium acidity, good earthy mineral and a seamless subtle red fruit and sous bois driven finish that subtly resonates. Fragile yet gorgeous showing.
Red
1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin
97 points
Expressive nose displaying ripe black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, black cherry a hint of raspberry, mocha, rose, dark spices, liquid smoke and earth. Excellent concentration, packed blackberry and black cherry, chewy yet silky and polished, bright acidity, noticeable but sweet tannins and a long deeply toned roasted black fruit and mocha driven finish. It remains very youthful and structured. Needs another decade or more to reach the youthful peak.
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Red
2007 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée
96 points
Expressive nose displaying subtle sweet black and a hint of red fruit, blackberry, black cherry, a hint of raspberry jam, Vosne spice, roasted coffee bean, rose, a hint of oak/vanilla and earth. Medium concentration, finely layered subtle black fruit, excellent balance, detail and purity, medium acidity, strong mineral presence and a long pure black fruit and mocha driven finish. Clearing reflecting the lighter palate of the 07 vintage and refine yet expressive style of Louis Michel. Drinking beautifully in a youthful way but will improve for another decade, gaining sous bois and decadent red fruit.
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Flight 8 - Piedmont - Flight 2 (3 notes)
Lamb with sliced fresh Matsutake
Red
1970 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino Speciale
97 points
En magnum with $4.99 price tag. Explosive nose displaying intense dry fruit, dry cherry, fruitcake, licorice strong iron, balsamico and tar, baking spices, molasses and earth. Unbelievable concentration, packed cherry black fruit, unctuous, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and the dark fruit driven finish that never ends. In magnum format, it is incredibly youthful perhaps need another ten years. Unbelievably powerful wine.
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Red
1974 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Ginestra
95 points
Much paler than the Villero and the Monfortino. Harmonious nose displaying subtle red fruit, strawberry, a hint of cherry, anise, raw button mushroom, light caramel and iron. Very precise and slightly lean, subtle red fruit driven palate impression, medium acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long subtle red fruit driven finish. This is one of the few wines that would have benefited from warmer room temperate.
Red
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Speciale Villero di Castiglione Falletto
97 points
Intense iron and crushed stoned driven nose, lean black fruit, a hint of dry cherry, licorice, spearmint, tar, cinnamon and earth. Very focused, linear and precise palate, very finely layered subtle black fruit, silky and polished, good acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a long silky black fruit and licorice driven finish with spearmint at the end. This is all about perfect precision and iron driven mineral.
Flight 9 - Yquem (1 note)
Cheese
White - Sweet/Dessert
1988 Château d'Yquem
98 points
Powerful nose displaying ripe tropical fruit, mango, pineapple, apricot, botrytis, lanoline, crème burlee and candied ginger. Incredible concentration, dense and oily yet perfectly precise and weightless, layers upon layers of ripe yellow fruit, bright acidity and a long opulent sweet yellow fruit and ginger driven finish that resonates. This has to be the most concentrated Yquem of the 80s.
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Flight 10 - Red Burgundy - Flight 4 (5 notes)
Dead soldiers - left half
Dead soldiers - right half
Red
1993 Fernand Lécheneaut et Fils (Philippe et Vincent) Clos de la Roche
97 points
Hedonistic nose displaying opulent red and fruit, raspberry jelly, fresh blackberry, light caramel, a hint of sous bois, Asian spices, grilled fat and vanilla. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of rich and opulent red and black fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, fully integrated tannins and an intense long opulent fruit and Asian spices driven finish. Absolutely beautiful drinking experience. Truly a pleasant surprise.
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Red
1990 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
97 points
Significantly fresher and more expressive than the bottle from Sep, 2015. Expressive nose displaying ripe red fruit with a hint of black, raspberry jelly, black cherry, espresso, a hint of sous bois, grilled cep, black truffle, iron and earth. Excellent concentration, packed ripe raspberry and blackberry, good acidity and mineral, still a hint of tannins and a long ripe blackberry and mocha driven finish. This is a ripe, imposing and powerful Beze, not very Rousseau but impressive and enjoyable.
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Red
1964 Pio Cesare Barolo
flawed
Chef Stefanelli generously served it blind. Orange/amber, mostly faded. My guess is old madeirized Quintarelli Amarone. Madeirized.
Red
1962 Maison Leroy La Romanée
93 points
Showing a bit more soy than I like, a lot of sous bois, dry cherry, cherry and tree bark. Medium concentration and a bit sharp at the end. Not the best example.
Red
1985 Emmanuel Rouget Echezeaux
93 points
Medium expressive nose, raspberry jelly, dry orange rind, strong soy, raw button mushroom, root beer and caramel. Fully integrated palate, subtle red fruit and mushroom driven palate impression, medium acidity and mineral, and a medium finish with clippings soy at the end.
Closing
Truly a memorable lunch! My sincere gratitude goes to Chef Stefanelli and the team at Masseria. Come visit again, Eddie!
Still standing!
The menu