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1989 Vouvray Madness

Good Luck Gourmet, Doraville, GA

Tasted January 5, 2018 by MikeATL with 573 views

Introduction

A friend with a number of 1989 Huets proposed a tasting to open them for us, and sweetened the pot with a couple of 1989 Pinons and a 1989 Foreau Moelleux Reserve. I brought a Cuvée Constance and Pinon Botrytis and another participant added a Pinon Goutte d'Or to help complete the set. One person didn't have anything directly on theme but brought two wines we finished with that were well worth drinking.

We thought that Szechuan food would pair well with the wines and met at Good Luck Gourmet, an excellent local Shaanxi and Szechuan restaurant to put it to the test. We were correct, as the wines showed well with a wide array of dishes. The all-Pinon flight turned out to work particularly well with the food.

Unfortunately I came down with a cold a few days before the dinner, so my notes are fairly cursory and my ratings should be taken with an even smaller grain of salt than usual. It still turned out to be a memorable night of great wine, great food, and great company.

Flight 1 (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Pétillant Brut France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray Pétillant
89 points
Simple, but fairly rich and pleasant, a little nutty reflecting the age, as I think this was a 2008 base vintage.

Flight 2 (3 notes)

White - Off-dry
1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
91 points
Honeyed rainwater, lovely, nice balance of off-dry sweetness and acid. It fades in the glass, though, so perhaps not the best bottle. Quite dark in color as well.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
92 points
Dark honey color, clover honey with a little orange twist, a little lanolin, fairly sweet. It is showing quite well.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 François Pinon Vouvray Moelleux France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
90 points
Straw colored, it shows a little star anise at first, with bright and fresh quince fruit. More an aperitif than a dessert wine, it pairs well with Szechuan food. 48 g/l RS, 4.7 g/l acidity, 12.47% alcohol.

Flight 3 (3 notes)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 François Pinon Vouvray Réserve Passerillée France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
92 points
Much lighter in color than the 1989 Botrytis and Goutte d'Or, with a touch of star anise tinting the bright quince fruit, very fresh and not showing as sweet. Very much like the 1989 Moelleux with just a little more of everything. 70 g/l RS.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 François Pinon Vouvray Cuvée Botrytis Limited Release France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
92 points
Much darker than the Moelleux and the Réserve Passerillée, but not quite as dark as the Huets, fairly sweet, light honey and apricot with good acidity and persistence. 12.6% alc, 75 gr RS, acidity 4.85, PH 3.32.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 François Pinon Vouvray Moelleux La Goutte d'Or France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
91 points
Sweet and rich, but showing a little fat. With time, the acidity becomes more noticeable which helps bring out more dimension. The 1989 is showing as sweeter and richer than the 1990, despite having less sugar, and should probably be drunk before the 1990. Like the other 1989 Pinon sweet wines, it paired very well with an array of Szechuan dishes. 12.8 alc, 75 gr RS, acidity 5.00.

Flight 4 (3 notes)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Clos du Bourg France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
flawed
Corked.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Mont France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
93 points
Sweet and a little floral with good acidity. 79 g/l RS, 7.7 g/l acidity (I've been informed that the correct acidity is 4.88, which seems more likely).
2 people found this helpful Comments (4)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Haut-Lieu France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
95 points
Great complexity with great acidity and brightness. It showed the technicolor interplay between the sugar, acid, and fruit that exemplify the great sweet Huets. 100 g/l RS, 5.70 g/l acidity, 12.9% alcohol.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 5 (2 notes)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux Réserve France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
92 points
Intense sweetness and acidity but not as complex as I expected. A good but not great bottle. 150 g/l RS.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Cuvée Constance France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
flawed
Lightly corked, which is enough to kill it.

Flight 6 (2 notes)

White
1967 Hugel Muscat Réserve Exceptionnelle France, Alsace
Labeled "Extra Dry," it was perplexing, but alive. Bone dry but with color and aromatics suggesting sweetness, and not showing a lot of Muscat peach but does have some of the florality, more of an interesting experience than an emotional one.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1994 Zind-Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Sélection de Grains Nobles Trié Spéciale France, Alsace
94 points
Almost excruciatingly sweet but kept in balance by equally intense acidity. It really blows out the taste buds, as after a few sips of it not even a 1989 Foreau Moelleux Reserve really registers on the palate. Reportedly 540 g/l RS, 12 grams acidity, 4% alcohol.
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