Tour VDP.GROSSE LAGE 2018 Vol.1
Hotel Atlantic, Hamburg
Tasted January 29, 2018 by fc1910 with 569 views
Introduction
For some years the VDP is showing their Große Gewächse to the public a few months after release again.
This event only travels around to some few mayor german citys.
This monday the tour starts in my hometown Hamburg with the four zones Ahr, Nahe, Rheinhessen and the Pfalz.
For me 2016 is a very classic Riesling vintage full of purity and energetic tension.
Most of the higher class samples will need a lot of time to fully open up.
But I like to recommend to buy from this vintage as much as you can afford.
These wines will surely blossom!
One word about the location. The Atlantic is one of the old famous hotels at the Binnenalster (inner city lake).
But the hall with its high ceiling is bad for conversation. Sometimes you can´t even understand people standing next to you.
A feeling more like a train station!
A nearly five hour mostly Riesling GG marathon!
That much Riesling to taste, that few time!
Flight 1 - Ahr, mostly elegant Spätburgunder (3 notes)
Red
2015 Jean Stodden Dernauer Hardtberg Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs
Germany, Ahr
Wow, and wow again, always be surprised when Alexander Stodden himself is pouring the first of his GG in a glass, if you do not know what your are recieving as a wine......, a colour like a teabag, but then this fragrance, indicating all this fine aromas you will find on the palate, and this is the more or less "basic"or call it starter GG, like all of his wines this one is all about finesse and persistence, ending delicious long+, **(**-?), 92+ potential
Flight 2 - The Nahe, my top of the heap Rieslings (13 notes)
White
2016 Dönnhoff Dellchen Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Nahe
This time I tasted the Dellchen right at the start and later on with about 3+ hours slow ox on the bottle, freshly opened not showing that much, some delicious ripe fruit, but still restrained, the next try this is nearly silky, like a pasing cat touching you slightly with its fur on the leg, then this is the finesse pure, tasty ripe red peaches, some sweetness of fruit in the very long aftertaste, one of the best samples from the Dellchen I have ever tasted, *(***+ -?), 93+ potential
White
2016 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Nahe
As always top of the heap of all dry wines from Dönnhoff, more restrained than the two other GG-samples from this estate, but wow, this electric minerality is above all, very zesty with passion fruit, very saline long+ aftertaste, but needs time, a lot of time, next try in maybe 5 years, but I think this Hermannshöhle should be cellared at least a decade, (*****), 95+ potential
White
2016 Emrich-Schönleber Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Nahe
This is the counterpart from E-S for the Hermannshöhle and the Felseneck, high toned saline, very much yellow fruit driven, zesty , way too young though, energetic very long finish, wait at least 5+ years, *(****), 94- 95+ potential
White
2016 Joh. Bapt. Schāfer Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Nahe
Somehow a little restrined showing today, very herbal, slate driven, therefore zesty, moderate bodied, but deepness of mineralic hints, ending saline long+, needs time, lets say about 5+ years before the next try, *(***+), 92+ potential
White
2016 Joh. Bapt. Schāfer Goldloch Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Nahe
More open than the Pittermännchen, fruit driven, ripe tasty stonefruit, some peaches, Mango, good weight on the midpalate, a delicious Riesling crowd pleaser, **(**), 91+ potential
update from 01/30/18: the estate owner donated me a nearly full bottle of this, with one day slow ox a superb energetic and very balanced rich long+ Riesling GG, highly recommended! 92+ potential
White
2016 Schäfer-Fröhlich Stromberg Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Nahe
Today this one is flashing me, too! That pure saline energy, straight foreward, superb richness of stonefruit, it is all about tension, ending long+, great showing today, will evolve to one of the best from this vintage, *(***-*****), 93+ potential
White
2016 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Nahe
And now: the stunner of this vintage, unbelievable full of tension, saline energy, deep like the atlantic ocean, again I am speechless, this persistence while swallowing, lasting for minutes on the palate after getting down the throat, best Riesling GG of today, for sure! Highly recommended, buy, buy, buy! *(****+), 98+ potential
Flight 3 - Pfalz, Gott erhalts! (36 notes)
White
2016 A. Christmann Konigsbacher Idig Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
Far better showing than in last September, a little more opened up, but clearly now indicating the whole class of this vineyard, stunning energetic, rich in peach fruit, but all covered by elegance and deep finesse, long+ aftertaste, will need a lot of more time to fully blossom up, *(****), 94- 95+ potential
White
2016 Philipp Kuhn Saumagen Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
This is the wild one in Kuhns portfolio, spicy, a wild herbal touch, good density, fullbodied, energetic, long+, will benefit from far further cellaring, **(**- ?), 92+ potential
White
2016 Georg Mosbacher Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
I have to admit: since a long time not having tasted this estate,cause it WAS somehow a bit mediocre, now changing my mind, back on the track, fine melting, really tasty on the palate, structured, an long elegant stonefruit appearance, *(**+ -), 90+ potential
White
2016 Georg Mosbacher Forster Freundstück Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
Wow, very balanced, herbal, spicy, more on the mineralic side of Riesling, midbodied elegant and really creamy, ending long with a lively saline acidity, too young and subdued, wait for 5+ years*(***-?), 92+ potential
White
2016 Georg Mosbacher Forster Pechstein Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
Another very suddued showing, all componenets only indicated, very spicy on the palate, searching for harmony, elegant swallowing, ending long saline demanding, needs at least 3, better 5+ years in the cellar, (****- ?), 93+ potential
White
2016 Georg Mosbacher Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
As I usually bought this one years ago, I now have to testify: Great stuff! Starting very fresh, apples, stonefruit, a lot of flintstone mineralic, really deep on the midpalate, ending very energetic and demanding, will improve over the next decade, *(***- ?), 93+ potential
White
2015 Georg Mosbacher Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
Glad to notice that this Weingut is showing some older samples of their GG, as usual the 2015 is packed with ripe fruit, concentrated, rich, but all very good balanced by the supporting acidity, with some bottle age a delicious creamy appearance, WOW, impressive! Ending with a saline long+ finish, **(**+), 93+ potential
White
2013 Georg Mosbacher Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
At last, I tried their oldest today sample, surprisingly good+, not showing the weight of the 15 sample or the superb electrc fressness of 16, but still one from the really better GGs, full of tension, midbodied, ending long with a still demanding acidity, **(*-****), 91+ potential
White
2016 Weingut Pfeffingen Ungsteiner Herrenberg Weissburgunder Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
Again a very stunning appearance, starting floral, white and yellow fruit on the nose, a realy cool climate P blanc, all about finesse and harmony, ending long+ mineralic,
update: 01/30/18: at the end of the presentation the owner donated me a more than half filled bottle, took this one home and.........., really great stuff the day after, paired a fine filet of scottish salmon, it is just like playing a perfect food ping-pong! Highly recommended, and overall a great QPR, a bottel sold for absurd low 20€, with a long decant drink from now on, **(**-?), 92+ potential
White
2016 Weingut Pfeffingen Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
Intense chalk licking from the Pfalz, this one is a young energetic mineralic driven great Riesling, not that balanced , no real harmony, all components wild, waiting for some mature, light to midbodied, deep chalky precise minerality, ending electric long+, needs the most time of all showed samples from Pfeffingen, give this one at least 5+ years, *(***-?), 92+ potential
White
2016 von Winning Deidesheimer Grainhübel Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
Before I start to rewiew their four presentated samples one longer remark:
this for Germany very big estate (estimated more than 60 hectares) is an example for a chance of style, they show "only" their midclass GG, lacking their 3 top GGs.
All Rieslings are fermented in barrels, this leads to a very creamy harmonic and young animating drinkable style, mostly tasty from now on.
Millions of euros for a great marketing and a fine cellar equipping.
I just ask myself? Is this what Riesling is all about?
You have to decide it on your own!
Very creamy appearance, quiet delicious with a tasty stonefruit, long, **(*-?)
White
2016 von Winning Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
Top of the heap from the four shown samples, again this one is all about harmony and Riesling balance, ending tasty long+ with a harmonic supporting saline acidity, **(**+)
Obviously these four wines all are high class Riesling GG, I am a little but only a little disturbed about this for me clearly focused "international" Riesling style, no way this is tasty+, but overall not really for me.........,
and I would have liked to taste one from their high priced samples!
Flight 4 - Rheinhessen, the biggest wine zone (12 notes)
White
2016 Kühling-Gillot Pettenthal Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Rheinhessen
WOW, this impressive mineralic nose, indicating all you want from a Riesling, superb limy aromas, midbodied, really deep, quiet harmonic though, ending high voltage electric high tentioned very long, way too young but one of the real classic Riesling samples, give this one at least 5+ more years, *(***-*****), 94+ potential
White
2016 Wagner-Stempel Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Rheinhessen
A new GG from W-S, the vineyard is showing a very zesty lemon nose, fine swallowing, lightbodied, tight, ending long+, way too young still, much more restrained than the first time last September in Berlin, *(**+ -?), 91+ potential
White
2016 Wagner-Stempel Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Rheinhessen
The most mineralic driven sample from W-S, flintstone stone licking, persistence on the palate all the way, does not need a full body to show its very high class, deep minerality, sharp as a knife, ending with this mineralic precision long+, give this one at least 5+ years in the bottle, *(***-*****), 94+ potential
Closing
Exhausted from this wine marathon I went to my favourite steak house, estancia steaks, to sip a fine Pils to clean the palate and enjoy an fine medium rare Entrecote!
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