La Paulée de SF Verticals Tasting

Fairmont Hotel, SF CA

Tasted March 2, 2018 by Nanda with 191 views

Introduction

This is a terrific tasting in a picturesque setting atop the Fairmont Hotel. I captured notes on only a little over half the domaines pouring -- need to get sharper for next year. Great way to get a feel for producers, vintages and terroir ... such a treat.

Flight 1 (48 notes)

White
2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
12/09/08 vertical. The '12 showed best today with great concentration for a 1er with lots of mineral and lemon/lime.
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White
2009 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
12/09/08 Vertical. My second favorite in the vertical today, which is a bit surprising given quality of '08. Lots of ripe, lush fruit with good concentration throughout. One to drink in it's youth.
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White
2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
12/09/08 Vertical. Rather reductive and tough to assess. Least open of the vertical but perhaps the best wine in the long run. Loads of tart citrus-driven acids behind the reduction.
White
2011 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
11/09/07 Vertical. This was my least favorite of the vertical. Rather lean and lacking in depth.
White
2009 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
12/09/07 Vertical. Another '09 that is showing well right now with round and luscious fruit met by driving acids. A fun drink right now.
White
2007 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
12/09/07 Vertical. Similar to the '09, but perhaps a bit less lush and with a bigger mineral component. My favorite of the three.
White
2012 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
12/10/09 Vertical. My favorite white vertical of the tasting. The '12 has a huge, bright, floral-driven nose with lots of peach and pear. Great depth and concentration on the palate. Spice-filled long finish. As good as this was, the '10 was better.
White
2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
12/10/09 Vertical. Great purity in this wine. Whereas the '12 was lush and showy, this is a bit more classic right now. Chiseled and precise. I like the long-term potential here.
White
2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
12/10/09 Vertical. Reduced and tough to assess. Trying to get past the reduction, this is seemingly the weakest of the trio as its more fat and loose-knit.
White
2011 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
11/08/06 Vertical. A consistently strong vertical. The '11 is forward and generous with a bright nose of orchard fruit and florals. Concentrated, rich and long.
White
2008 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
11/08/06 Vertical. My favorite in the vertical. Showy now but with plenty of structure to age. Round, tropical and orchard fruit. Fresh, lifted and spice-filled finish.
White
2006 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
11/08/06 Vertical. The most brooding of the trio. Packed but un-evolved with orchard fruits and some florals and spice. Big and concentrated. Needs time to settle in and come together.
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White
2012 Etienne Sauzet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
12/11/10 Vertical. Fairly reduced but underlying fruit has great concentration and layering.
White
2011 Etienne Sauzet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
12/11/10 Vertical. Showy nose with delicous orchard and tropical fruit. Plush with good layering. Acids are a tad light, thus this shows a bit soft.
White
2010 Etienne Sauzet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
12/11/10 Vertical. My favorite of the trio. Has the showy elements of the '11 combined with real muscle and power. Concentrated with excellent acidic structure. Should age (assuming it doesn't premox).
Red
2009 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
09/04/00 Vertical. One of the more creative verticals today. Really loved the '09 (as I did 6 weeks ago). Great velvety and polished red cherry fruit. Sightly sweet and forward now making it a delicious drink already.
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Red
2004 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
09/04/00 Vertical. From magnum. Brave to pour an '04 at this tasting, but I appreciated the opportunity to get a sense of the vintage in context of two other vintages. Not overtly green in flavor, but this was sharper, leaner and more acidic than the '09 and '00. '04 wasn't kind too wines in more ways that just the green meanie flavor profile. Having said that, this is still drinkable and providing some pleasure.
Red
2000 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
09/04/00 Vertical. Relatively advanced for it's age with maturing red and black fruit with some sous bois and dried herbs character. A bit soft though there is still some acid freshness. On the back nine.
Red
2012 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
12/03/99 Vertical. Another fun selection of vintages. The '12 has tons of forward red cherry. Very young and bright red fruit with some spice and florals. Slightly drying on the back end. Needs time to soften and integrate, but like the potential here.
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Red
2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
12/03/99 Vertical. While this is certainly the ripest of the trio and just slightly roasted, it's an enjoyable and in no way flawed drink. Luscious, charming red fruit with some still-drying tannins on the back end. Good now, but perhaps even better with a few years.
Red
1999 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
12/03/99 Vertical. My favorite of the trio. Full nose of maturing red fruit with dried herb and leather notes. Maturing rich fruit with earthy notes. Very good freshness and energy. In a great spot, but should hold in this state for 5-10 years.
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Red
2011 Louis Jadot Corton-Pougets Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
11/08/05 Vertical. A favorite Jadot bottling of mine that really sings with 20+ years of age, so fun to check in on these youngsters together. The '11 is very fruited and simple/primary at this stage. Very hard tannins shut this down quickly. Needs time, and hopefully the fruit can hang in there while the tannins soften. Difficult vintage to call.
Red
2008 Louis Jadot Corton-Pougets Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
11/08/05 Vertical. Bright red fruit and once again a bit simple/primary at this stage. More polished than the '11 with emerging earthiness. Big, firm tannins again. Drink after 2028.
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Red
2005 Louis Jadot Corton-Pougets Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
11/08/05 Vertical. The strongest of the trio but nowhere close to ready. Attractive fresh red fruit aromas. This is packed with round, voluminous rich fruit. Also has firm underlying structure. Not yet integrated or all that complex. Needs another 20 years. I guess I'll drink this one in my retirement years.
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Red
2011 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
11/10/07 Vertical. Very strong across the board and a sentimental favorite as one the wines that pulled me into Burgundy. The '11 is forward and show already with lots of Vosne spice, black cherry and some oak spice. Round, concentrated fruit and an overall velvety mouthfeel. Drinking well already with no signs of green/lean from the vintage. Perhaps one to drink sooner than normal.
Red
2010 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
11/10/07 Vertical. A wow wine with big rich Vosne spice-filled black cherry. Great richness and concentration, with a polished almost sleek style. Lifted and long. One of the last vintages in this more forward, oak-shaped style. The fruit can handle it, and it's delicious now but should age for 20+ years.
Red
2007 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
11/10/07 Vertical. Not as stuffed as the '10, but oh so good right now. Rich, supple, Vosne spice-filled fruit. Good length and persistence. Showing some layering and complexity already.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2014 Georges Noellat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
14/13/11 Vertical. Forward, expressive and expansive already. Good rich, spice-filled black cherry. Likely has the stuffing to age but pretty approachable and tasty now.
Red
2013 Georges Noellat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
14/13/11 Vertical. Not as expressive or round as the '14. Still shows good Vosne-spice and black cherry, if a bit more reserved and lean right now. Potentially shutting down, or potentially just a more elegant rendition.
Red
2011 Georges Noellat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
14/13/11 Vertical. From magnum. The leanest of the three wines. Shows very similar burst of Vosne spice. Bright and polished, just less concentration of fruit than the '13 and certainly the '14.
Red
2012 Jean-Marc Millot Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
12/11/10 Vertical. I was keen to to try this vertical as I'm trying to get more familiar with the Millot line-up. The '12 is the most friendly and rewarding of the trio. Great lift in the earthy, leathery black cherry nose. Nice concentration and already showing some secondary character.
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Red
2011 Jean-Marc Millot Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
12/11/10 Vertical. Leanest and most compact of the trio. Charming but probably not enough stuffing for even mid-term cellaring.
Red
2010 Jean-Marc Millot Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
12/11/10 Vertical. The most stern and brooding of the trio, but also with the most pure black cherry fruit. Rather un-evolved right now, but concentrated and seemingly has the total package for long-term cellaring.
Red
2012 Domaine d'Eugénie Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
12/11/10 Vertical. Tasted immediately following the Millot 12/11/10 vertical, so an interesting comparison. More concentration and modern styling here. The '12 is very dense and totally un-evolved at this stage. Round, rich and dense palate with lots of spice. Excellent raw materials.
Red
2011 Domaine d'Eugénie Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
12/11/10 Vertical. The leanest of the trio. Lots of Vosne spice on the nose. Lean and thinner palate, though this is balanced. An elegant, earlier drinking vintage.
Red
2010 Domaine d'Eugénie Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
12/11/10 Vertical. Certainly richer and sweeter than the '11. Comparable fruit profile to the '12 if a bit more structured, particularly in the finish. A good bit of oak spice showing right now. Needs time to come together.
Red
2010 Domaine Hervé Sigaut Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
10/03/00 Vertical, all from Magnum. Another vertical I was excited to try given some recent notoriety for this estate, and this vineyard in particular. The '10 is a very complete wine. Big, delicious red-fruited nose with layering and length. Round and rich on the palate. Quite charming and enjoyable already, though primary and simple today. Better in 5+ years.
Red
2003 Domaine Hervé Sigaut Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
10/03/00 Vertical, all from Magnum. Shows the vintage ripeness / sweetness and lower acidity. Having said that not roasted in flavor. Some florals and clay in the background. Good now, but probably doesn't have the balance to age medium term.
Red
2000 Domaine Hervé Sigaut Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
10/03/00 Vertical, all from Magnum. Maturing aromas of plum, clay and earth. The palate is fully mature and nicely balanced. A charming, earthy Chambolle.
Red
2011 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
11/09/01 Vertical. Sour cherry and strawberry fruit on the nose. Fairly hard and firm throughout, and I'm not confident the fruit can outlast the structure.
Red
2009 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
11/09/01 Vertical. Rich, forward and darker fruited aromatics -- very attractive. The fruit is ripe and rich, yet still pretty and not over-the-top. Excellent concentration and matching structure. Fun now, but better as this matures and develops nuance.
Red
2001 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
11/09/01 Vertical. The nose is showing nuance with bright red cherry, clay and earth aromas. Approachable and complex with great a lingering finish. Looks to be entering a drinking window.
Red
2014 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combes aux Moines Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
14/13/11 Vertical. Deliciously gorgeous aromas of candied black cherry and meaty spice. Very concentrated fruit with a silky mouthfeel. Powerful, rich finish. Singular, but undoubtedly tasty.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2013 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combes aux Moines Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
14/13/11 Vertical. Bright red cherry with lots of stem character in the nose. While this is lighter than the '14 its still lush in the mouth. A step down from the wow factor of the '14.
Red
2011 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combes aux Moines Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
14/13/11 Vertical. The lightest of the trio, but it still has the same signature. Sweet red fruit with lots of herbs and stem character. Lots of spice throughout. Really tasty and far more elegant. Good one to drink young.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2009 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
09/07/03 Vertical. Big, dense nose of rich black cherry with loads of meat and spice notes. Luscious and forward in the mouth. Definitely new school Faiveley in a warm vintage. Very approachable and tasty already. A bit obvious would be my only criticism.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2007 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
09/07/03 Vertical. A very ready and complex '07. The nose is lifted and dense with excellent layering of black cherry, earth, meaty notes and spice. A wow palate with lots if intensity and length, combined with flavor complexity. Powerful, intense finish. Drinking wonderfully now.
Red
2003 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
09/07/03 Vertical. Interesting to see the difference between the 09 and 07. More classic and stern here, even in a hot year. The nose is reserved and austere. On the palate you immediately see the wall of tannin. The fruit is there but currently getting crushed by firm, dry tannins. Will be interesting to see this if/when the tannins soften.
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