Good Friday Dinnner
Ekenhov
Tasted March 30, 2018 by Puteljen! with 266 views
Introduction
Good Friday Dinner - Menu
Potato chips, sour cream, bleak roe
Tartar x 2 - elk, horseradish and salmon roe / carrot, dill and capers
Reindeer chop, hash Brown, mushroom sauce, lingonberry
Hare flambée, potato puré, red wine sauce
Berirousse d'Argental
Colomba Pasquale with cream and fresh berries
Flight 1 - Something before dinner (1 note)
Orange
2016 Enderle & Moll Weiss & Grau
Germany, Baden
Quite rich bouquet. Intense, almost sweet, kind of like liquid rhubarb pie. Lots of fragrant flowers: honeysuckle, lillies, lilacs, but on the palate fresh and energetic. Like it!
Flight 2 - Champagne (2 notes)
White - Sparkling
1995 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millénaires
France, Champagne
Light golden colour. Bouquet of winter apples, lemon, lime, chalk and honey on buttered toast. Also hints of dry grass and nuts. On the palate delicate mousse. Fresh and energetic with high acidity and a ton of minerals. Lemon, lime, green apples. Absolutely dry. No bitterness at all. Some hints of oxidation speaks of its true age but amazingly youthfull. Seems like this could take at least a decade in the cellar yet. Very long, saline-citrus finish. Amazing stuff! WOTN for me.
Flight 3 - Bordeaux or almost Bordeaux (2 notes)
Red
1985 Château Mouton Rothschild
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
On the nose archetypical mature bordeaux - leather, animale, tobacco, pencil shavings, decaying black currant, earth. Very complex and just lovely. On the palate regrettably not as great. The fruit is somewhat faded. Some very mature, frankly decaying, black currant and raspberries. The overall impression is slightly thin. Still good lenght though and on the finish some of the complexity from the nose reappears. Even so lots of pleasure to be had and had the palate matched the nose this would have been outstanding.
Red
1995 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve
USA, California, Napa Valley
This has not moved too much since my first bottle in 2013. Still fruit left. Blackcurrant, some boysenberries, pencil shavings, hints of sous bois. I also get a slightly disturbing camomille/soap note. At first I thought perhaps the glass had some residual detergent but it was the same in another glass. It’s not a big deal but deducts some from the experience. On the palate mature, bordeaux like with blackcurrant dominant. Mature but well and alive. Some slight warmth hints at high alcohol but I still find it balanced and quite elegant. Medium lenght, spicy finish.
Flight 4 - Rhône or almost Rhône (3 notes)
Red
1999 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Cornas
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
The biggest surprise of the evening. This is by far the best bottle I’ve had of this wine. Fully mature with sweet berries, sous bois, mushrooms, light tobacco and hints o leather. Some violets and just a hint of olives. Lots of mineral and good acidity. More elegant than powerfull. Very nice!
Red
2015 Franck Balthazar Cornas Chaillot
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Quite intense nose with dark fruit, charcuteries, olive brine, liquorice and violets. On the palate more restrained. Lots of mouthdrying tannins and a ton of minerals - iron filings and crushed granite. Good lenght. This is just way too young. Give it 10+ years. Zero doubt it is gonna turn out great. Score is for tonight.
Red
2014 Shafer Relentless
USA, California, Napa Valley
Lots of dark fruit, quite intense but nonetheless more elegant and classic than I expected. Iron and granite mineral, good acidity, quite low tannin. Some olive brine, fresh meat, very light tobacco and hints of lilac. Good lenght. Drink now or cellar 10+ years.
Flight 5 - Sweets (2 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2004 Isole e Olena Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
As good as I remember it. Bouquet of almonds, honey, caramel, citrus, orange peel, saffran och violets.On the palate quite sweet and the acidity is a notch lower than I remember but it is still in balance and the overall impression is quite refreshing. Some bitter and saline notes. Long, citric-sweet finish. Beautiful!
White - Sweet/Dessert
2014 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé
Italy, Sicily, Passito di Pantelleria
Fresh and bright with sweet apricot, elderberryblossom, orange peel and candied apples. Sweet but balanced with high acidity. Slight hint of something bitter - campari? Only thing missing is a bit more complexity. Would be interesting to cellar this.
Closing
A great time was had by all. All bottles delivered and I enjoyed every wine. Perhaps I was hoping for at least one more magical bottle. The only one that could aspire to this elevated status was the Millénaires - superb champagne - but the others fell just short. The Mouton could have been that bottle, had the palate fullfilled the promise of the nose. I do belive that the Chaillot can be something extraordinary 10-15 years down the line but for now it just hint at its potential. It was great to see the '99 Jaboulet deliver! I included it mostly as a contrast to the other two wines and had no high hopes beforehand. This is the second year running we arrange a dinner on Good Friday so now it's more or less tradition. See you next year!
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