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1982 Bordeaux
Wine Watch Wine Bar, Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Tasted April 3, 2018 by sdr with 602 views
Introduction
Earlier this month it was my turn for me to show wines to my local tasting group, Hollywood (Fl.) Wine Society. Having been interested in 1982 Bordeaux ever since release and urged on by Mr. Parker, I have bought, collected and drunk them since release. But I have never tasted more than a few in one setting, so this was an opportunity. I selected a reasonably broad selection, though by no means comprehensive.
Flight 1 - Set.-Èstephe (2 notes)
Red
1982 Château Cos d'Estournel
92 points
This bottle showed lots of St. Estèphe character. It’s very earthy, masculine and a bit severe, unlike some previous bottles which have been more floral. As it aired it softened some. Good balance, fine ‘82 Bordeaux, mature now with a good future.
Flight 2 - Pessac-Léognan (1 note)
Red
1982 Château Haut-Brion
95 points
One of the highlights of the ‘82 Bordeaux horizontal and the favorite for three of the guests. “That’s a beauty” I involuntarily muttered to myself as soon as I smelled it. It’s classical Haut-Brion with lots of soil tones, gently smoky and dark fruity. The only negative was a slightly dry finish. Fully mature without a doubt. Refined and for me the most elegant wine of the series of nineteen.
Flight 3 - Pomerol (4 notes)
Red
1982 Château Trotanoy
90 points
It started out with a rubbery stink which thankfully blew off. The color is fairly advanced. On the palate, leathery and lacking the charm a great Pomerol should have. Where’s the delicious fruit? Not enough flesh on these bones. This wine was extravagantly luscious and flamboyant in the first ten years of life, no vestige of that any more. Many in the group liked it much better than I, though.
Red
1982 Château L'Evangile
95 points
Nineteen eighty-two L’Évangile never fails to thrill and this bottle was no exception. Beautiful bouquet of flowers and soft plums with palate to match. Elegant and graceful, luscious and sweet, the best Pomerol of the vintage for me, with only Pétrus as a contender.
Red
1982 Château La Conseillante
91 points
Not as strong as a recent previous bottle from a different source. Not fruity at all, but it’s unusual and interesting, if not what I am seeking from a top Pomerol of a great vintage. The bouquet faded quickly. Still, it grew on me when I came back to it. Good to very good now but drink soon.
Red
1982 Château Certan de May
88 points
Pretty good, solid, but too dry. This bottle was past the very fine best that ‘82 Certan-de-May was a few years ago. Perhaps there are better other bottles out there; this one was a recent purchase.
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Flight 4 - St.-Émilion (2 notes)
Red
1982 Château Figeac
93 points
Finally, a very interesting and sound Figeac. The brown rim does not inspire confidence. Strong note of bell pepper and green herbs such as thyme, dill and rosemary, which somehow is not off putting. There’s a beetroot flavor I associate more with Burgundy than Bordeaux. Holds up well in the glass. Extra points for individuality.
Red
1982 Château Canon
90 points
A good but not exciting example of ‘82 Canon. More vigor than usual and soil tones add interest but too meager and it doesn’t have a lot to say.
Flight 5 - Margaux (1 note)
Red
1982 Château Margaux
94 points
An excellent example of ‘82 Margaux, this bottle was powerful, spicy and meaty. Not as rustic as it sometimes can be. Great color, fragrant and long. As it sat in the glass a hint of spring flowers developed. Excellent dark fruit, so refreshing and complex. A beauty.
Flight 6 - St.-Julien (4 notes)
Red
1982 Château Gruaud Larose
86 points
I just don’t get Gruaud Larose, at least not the ‘82 version. To me it’s odd and mean, lacking any generosity of aroma or flavor. This bottle had an odd chemical smell to make things worse, maybe corked. Yet many in the group loved it. À chacun son goût.
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Red
1982 Château Léoville Poyferré
89 points
Nothing is technically wrong but it fails to excite. A bit anonymous. Medium weight, mature tannins and balanced. Good, but got lost in the series.
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Red
1982 Château Léoville Las Cases
94 points
I like it a lot now for its intense fruit of cassis and black currant and its vibrancy. But it’s still in an early secondary phase without much complexity of aroma or flavor. Tannins are ripe and well integrated. Who knows when this will occur since it seems immune to oxidation. Save some for your grandchildren.
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Red
1982 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou
94 points
The best surprise to the upside in the tasting, this bottle was by far the best specimen of ‘82 Ducru I have ever tasted, from a vintage where most of them are oddly dull and lifeless. Almost purple color let you know this would be a vibrant, almost youthful wine. Stylish and energetic, good acidity, harmonious. Terrific Ducru for now and the foreseeable future.
Flight 7 - Pauillac (5 notes)
Red
1982 Château Mouton Rothschild
96 points
This bottle, served last in the series of nineteen examples of ‘82 Bordeaux, really divided the group. Most were disappointed, feeling it lacked zest. A minority, including myself, demurred, finding it massive, backward and closed - but very promising. We did not have enough time to see how it would change with air, though. Oaky, enormous, moody and challenging.
Red
1982 Château Lynch-Bages
95 points
I have woefully underestimated Lynch-Bages in the past and I am happy to report that the ‘82 is fabulous, surely one of the top ten wines of the vintage. Excellent deep ruby color, no orange. Massive aroma of black tar and dirt. On the palate, a tremendous core of ripe fruit, black licorice and truffle. Terrific complexity and endlessly intriguing, even thrilling. Beefy yet somehow no lack of finesse given its fine balance. First growth quality and a relative bargain.
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Red
1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
91 points
For me, a good rather than great ‘82 Pichon-Lalande, without the exotic flair of the best bottles. Slightly muddy, missing focus and clarity. Not ripe enough. Steak without the sizzle. But it was the overwhelming favorite of the group in the 19 bottle horizontal of 1982 Bordeaux, so I must have been missing something.
Red
1982 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron
92 points
Excellent color. A slight indistinct chemical odor detracts. It’s much better on the palate though. Brawny Pauillac fruit, virile, heavy and emphatic. Not for those looking for elegance but a hearty drink to duel with a hunk of charred meat.
Red
1982 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste
93 points
GPL does it again. A reliably terrific wine from the vintage, the ‘82 is potent, hearty and masculine with lots of earth and porcini mushroom and a long finish. Very Pauillac, very enjoyable. Seems like it will go on for a long time.
Flight 8 - Dessert Wine - Barsac (1 note)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1971 Château Climens
97 points
While there is substantial variability with the ‘71 Climens, this bottle was spectacular. Beautiful limpid orange yellow color. Gorgeous bouquet of orange marmalade, vanilla, spearmint and lemon peel. But what really elevated it was the exquisite balance, just a hint of botrytis and lightly sweet with the perfect amount of acidity to keep it refreshing. Classic Barsac at its best and proof that the best ones can easily approach the half century mark without fading a bit.
Closing
There were more than a few disappointments. As a group, Pomerol was relatively weak and Pauillac strong. That said, there are impressive wines from all districts (other than Sauternes, which I did not include). The most structured, especially Léoville-las-Cases and Mouton, will surely go on for decades. Not included in this tasting were some other high points of the vintage, including La Mission Haut-Brion and Latour. Maybe next time . . .