Will T’s (30th) 87s

Noizé, London

Tasted April 19, 2018 by SimonG with 212 views

Flight 1 (1 note)

White - Sparkling
1988 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut France, Champagne
93 points
Mid to full gold. Nicely rich on the nose. Properly Krug. Drops away a little on the finish but very nice and very drinkable. Lots of ginger spice. Lovely. ****

Flight 2 (3 notes)

White
1987 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ-Canet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
84 points
This has clearly seen better days. However, it’s not oxidised, and has some interest. Faded and tired but one could follow a glass with interest. (**)
White
1987 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay USA, California, Napa Valley
70 points
Curious fresh-cut bruised apple nose that follows through to palate with harsh acidity and a sickly sweet top note. Really not for me though others found it less offensive. Hopefully this hasn’t lasted well.
White
1987 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
93 points
Pristine bottle, palest lemon flesh in colour. Lovely nose, mineral, lemon, slightly floral. Lots of line and grip and interest. Positively youthful. Why, oh why...! ****

Flight 3 (4 notes)

Red
1987 Château Batailley France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
88 points
Full garnet. Slightly cheesy initially but this blows off quickly to reveal a nicely blackcurrant lead classic claret nose. A touch of mocha richness on the palate. Very decent and classic. After a couple of hours this is still going strong and showing typicity. ***
Red
1987 Château Léoville Barton France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
88 points
Denser and sweeter-fruited nose. Plush almost. Quite flirty. Doesn’t quite follow through on the palate but the nose is atypical for Barton. Decent, some structure but not quite the padding on the finish. Collapses somewhat after a couple of hours. (*)**
Red
1987 Tertre Rôteboeuf France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
90 points
Dense, slightly green pepper nose. Nicely rounded and smooth. Decent length too. Very good by any standard. After a couple of hours still showing well but rather emphasising a showy simplicity rather than complexity. Very nice drink though and clearly the best of the flight. ***1/2
Red
1987 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
85 points
Half. Slightly dusty. Some shape but the stuffing is coming out. Needs re-plumping. (**1/2)

Flight 4 (4 notes)

Red
1987 Adega Regional de Colares Colares Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
82 points
Initially quite flat on the nose before it takes an alarming turn towards stale chrysanthemum water. I wish I hadn’t thought of that — I just can’t shift the scent. Refreshing. Very cranberry. Lots going on upfront and then it turns off. Hard to classify/rate. Interesting rather than traditionally enjoyable. Somewhat masochistic. Hard to rate — a personal judgement. I’d struggle with a glass though. **
Red
1987 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Reserva Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
94 points
Gorgeous when opened 4hrs ahead of drinking. Just loses a touch of richness in the interim. Some plushness but very much silk rather than velvet. Classic Vr in a slightly adolescent stage. Not yet the orange peel complexity but plenty of interest. Not giving itself away easily but plenty to tempt one to persevere. Quite vibrant still. Just about ****1/2
Red
1987 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
94 points
Denser and plusher than the VR Reserva. Somewhat more obvious as expected. Very smooth. Creamy velvet. Classic Imperial. Brash smoothness rather than reticent complexity. Slips down well though! ****1/2
Red
1987 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
93 points
Double decanted 4hrs previously. Fragrant nose. Very attractive. Red fruit, floral, vanilla spice with some coconut. A little flighty as well as flirty. Just a bit too sweet and obvious with air. A touch of cola too. Nice though. ****

Flight 5 (2 notes)

Red
1987 Monticello Vineyards (Corley Family) Cabernet Sauvignon Corley Reserve USA, California, Napa Valley
89 points
Quite dense, attractive nose. Very cab. Slightly leafy. Does exactly what it says on the label. Decent but lacks some character cf the clarets. ***
Red
1987 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
90 points
Smoky, dense. Black olives. Alongside the cheese this is an uncompromising and mean bruiser. Very dry and overly
Oaky. Dusty. Almost unpleasant. However with the cheese out of the way this sweetens and shows more nuance and character. Complexity too. Still quite hard work / uncompromising but one could drink a glass of it. 30 years old in a lighter vintage — goodness knows what a big vintage is like! ***1/2

Flight 6 (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1988 Château de Fargues France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
91 points
Full amber. Barley sugar. A touch of medicinal botrytis. Only noted briefly at end of meal but seemed promising. ****
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