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Chateau Margaux dinner with Thibault Pontallier
Taberna del Alabardero, Washington D.C.
Tasted May 9, 2018 by dcwino with 668 views
Introduction
The Global Ambassador for Chateau Margaux, Thibault Pontallier was in town for the 2018 Heart's Delight’s Vintners Dinner & Auction. As usual Bijan did an exceptional job organizing the dinner. Thirteen of us got together at Taberna del Alabardero to drink 14 vintages of Chateau Margaux. The tasting menu was good and complemented the wines well. The wine service was exceptional as usual! The great classic private room was a big plus.
Most of the wines showed really well clearly displaying the intoxicating floral nose that Chateau Margaux is known for. As expected, the 96, 00 and 10 were my top wines.
Flight 1 - Champagne (3 notes)
White - Sparkling
2007 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules
94 points
En magnum. Really delicious nose displaying rich yellow fruit, peach soda, peach sorbet, a hint of delicate red fruit, almond paste, spicy spices, honey and mineral. Beautiful generous palate, rich yellow fruit driven palate impression, incredibly fine very generous mousse, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, a long seamless sweet yellow fruit and spicy spices driven finish. There is a hint of bitterness at the end which I associate with Pinot. I am always amazed by how tasty Cedric Bouchard champagnes are.
White - Sparkling
2009 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Blancs La Haute-Lemblé
94 points
Harmonious medium expressive nose displaying sweet yellow fruit with a hint of white, lemon crud, apple pie, canned pear, white flowers, almond paste, honey, cinnamon and mineral. Excellent concentration, generous rich yellow fruit, creamy deliciousness, generous fine mousse, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long decadent yellow fruit and almond paste driven finish. Another delicious Cedric Bouchard.
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White - Sparkling
1990 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut
89 points
Toffee, a hint of madeira and oxidized apple peel. Medium mousse. I am not convince that this is a correct showing. Although complex, too oxidative for me.
Flight 2 - Pavillon Blanc (4 notes)
It is a very concentrated style of Bordeaux blanc. Thibault mentioned that they are picking earlier to retain the freshness since 2011.
White
2002 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux
flawed
Dark yellow but clear and bright. Unfortunately it is slightly oxidized with a hint of madeira. It never blows off. The nose is quite rich with nice dry yellow fruit.
White
2006 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux
95 points
Fully mature nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, apricot, yellow peach, pineapple, honey, honeysuckle, crème brulee and sweet spices. Excellent concentration, rich and oily, deeply toned ripe yellow fruit, good acidity, not so mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit and sweet spices driven finish. According to Thibault, it was picked really late. Almost 15% alcohol but hard to detect. Really delicious!
White
2010 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux
93 points
During the 10 EP, this was really delicious. The nose is a bit muted at the moment. For my palate, the style is similar to the 15 but just five years older, kinda shutdown. Sweet none descriptive white fruit, honey, macadamia flour, spicy spices and mineral. Sweet and steely palate, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a medium to long sweet white fruit driven finish. Needs another five to ten years to open up, becoming like the 06.
White
2015 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux
95 points
Very pale color and primary nose as one expects. Expressive energetic nose displaying fresh white fruit, pear, kiwi, passionfruit, star fruit, white flowers, spicy spices and wet stone. There is a hint of Sauvignon Blanc here. Excellent concentration, nicely layered generous passionfruit, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and a long clean passionfruit and spicy spices driven finish. Very primary and serious but also delicious.
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Flight 3 - 78, 83 & 86 (3 notes)
Red
1978 Château Margaux
93 points
As some of you may remember, there were only two cities, SF and Chicago, where major wine auctions were held in the 90s. Cole purchased this at a Davis wine auction twenty some years ago.
Incredibly fresh example. Medium expressive classic claret nose displaying sweet dark red fruit, cherry and plum, also a hint of cassis, a hint of green, lead pencil, leather, cedar, ash and earth. Fully resolved palate, medium concentration, subtle slightly faded red fruit, medium acidity, fully integrated tannins and a medium long subtle red fruit driven earthy finish. The nose is very classic and old school. The fruit is fading a bit in the palate. No need to wait but very enjoyable.
Incredibly fresh example. Medium expressive classic claret nose displaying sweet dark red fruit, cherry and plum, also a hint of cassis, a hint of green, lead pencil, leather, cedar, ash and earth. Fully resolved palate, medium concentration, subtle slightly faded red fruit, medium acidity, fully integrated tannins and a medium long subtle red fruit driven earthy finish. The nose is very classic and old school. The fruit is fading a bit in the palate. No need to wait but very enjoyable.
Red
1983 Château Margaux
94 points
My contribution. Expressive nose displaying decadent black fruit, cassis, blackberry jam, lavender, lead pencil, eucalyptus, caramel, cedar and earth. There is a hint of bitterness/oxidative note indicating that it was not ideally cellared in the past. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of packed cassis, good acidity, a hint of medium coarse tannins and a medium to long cassis and eucalyptus driven finish. There is a hint of oxidative note that is slightly bothersome and shortens the finish a bit. The floral aspect of the nose is wonderful. If ideal cellared, the 83 has the concentration and structure to develop for another twenty years or more. Perhaps the best vintage of Chateau Margaux from the 80s.
Red
1986 Château Margaux
95 points
Clearly the most youthful wine of the flight. Expressive singular nose displaying intense ripe red fruit, also crème de cassis, strong lead pencil, caramel, a hint of cedar and earth. Excellent concentration, packed cassis and red currant, bright acidity, noticeable but not obtrusive tannins and a long intense red and black fruit driven finish. The 86 Margaux is a powerful wine that shows the similar evolution as the 86 Mouton, just not as polished and complex. Nevertheless, impressive showing and TWOTF. This will reach the peak in another decade or two as the tertiary notes are still mostly in the background.
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Flight 4 - 95, 96 & 99 (3 notes)
Red
1995 Château Margaux
95 points
Comparing the 95 and 96 Bordeaux is always fascinating for me. The 95 nose always displays a hint of roasted fruit/espresso. The tannins are always a bit coarse. The 96 is always noble and classic. Expressive nose displaying intense ripe blue and black fruit, crème de cassis, crushed wild blueberry, ink, licorice, incense, roasted nuts, mint, dark milk chocolate, leather and earth. Excellent concentration, concentrated black and blue fruit, good acidity, earthy mineral, still strong presence of slightly rough tannins and a long crème de cassis and lead pencil driven finish. This is drinking beautifully but can improve for another two decades.
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Comments (1)
Red
1996 Château Margaux
98 points
As expected, it flirts with perfection. Perfectly harmonious and precise nose displaying decadent yet pure black and blue fruit, crème de cassis, crushed blackberry and blueberry, cornucopia of flowers, subtle perfume, lead pencil, cedar and limestone mineral. Perfectly harmonious palate, pure, precise, detailed, silky and polished, very finely layered cool black and blue fruit, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, incredibly fine tannins and the finish that resonates over a minute. IMO, the 96 Margaux, Latour and Lafite represent the epitomes of classic Bordeaux. It is drinking perfectly in a very youthful way but will improve another decade or more.
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Red
1999 Château Margaux
94 points
Just like the 99 HB drank in Feb of this year, this is a pleasant surprise. Very expressive use friendly nose displaying fresh sweet black fruit, blueberry concentrated, crème de cassis, ink, licorice, lavender, strong mint, lead pencil, bitter chocolate and limestone mineral. Medium concentration, incredibly silky, airy and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and a medium to long intense cassis and licorice driven finish. It is drinking incredibly well. Love the silky and sophisticate palate.
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Flight 5 - 00, 01, 03 & 06 (4 notes)
Red
2000 Château Margaux
98 points
Expressive youthful nose displaying intense crème de cassis, ink, licorice, lavender, liquid smoke, lead pencil and crushed rocks. Incredibly concentrated yet perfectly balanced, layers upon layers of intense crème de cassis, unctuous yet so silky and almost weightless, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and the finish that never ends. The impression is similar to the 96 but slightly riper, sweeter and more concentrated. Naturally it is not as detailed and transparent. This is a monumental wine that is getting close to the youthful peak but will improve at least for three more decades.
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Red
2001 Château Margaux
95 points
Just like the 99, this is a pleasant surprise as it is drinking magnificently. Perfect harmonious medium expressive nose displaying pure fresh black and blue fruit, crushed blueberry, a hint of cassis, ink, very floral, lead pencil and limestone. Medium concentration, very finely layered pure black fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very silky tannins and a medium to long clean pure black fruit driven finish. Perhaps the most feminine wine of the evening. Drinking beautifully.
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Red
2003 Château Margaux
94 points
Expressive very ripe nose displaying cherry liqueur, Chambord, a hint of cassis, espresso, medicine, lead pencil and earth. Excellent concentration, packed very ripe red and black fruit, bright acidity, earthy mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a medium to long Chambord and earth driven finish. There is noticeable bitterness at the end that clips the finish. The 03 ripe fruit expression has subsided. The bitterness is a bit bothersome at the moment. I suspect this will develop like the 76 Latour, kinda exotic and kinky.
Red
2006 Château Margaux
95 points
Just like the 06 Haut Brion drank recently, it is showing incredibly well. Expressive nose displaying intense black fruit, crème de cassis, ink, licorice, rose, dark spices, cedar, tree bark and earth. Excellent concentration, packed cassis, good acidity and mineral, strong presence of slightly coarse tannins and a long intense cassis and licorice driven finish. The 06 seems to be the vintage that has a significant gap between the FGs and the rest. This is a powerful, concentrated and structured Margaux that needs time. A nice contrast to the 01. Will improve for two decades or more.
Flight 6 - 10, 11, 12 & 14 (4 notes)
Red
2010 Château Margaux
98 points
Intense nose displaying coiled black fruit, crème de cassis, blueberry concentrate, ink, licorice, incense, smoke, lead pencil and earth. Incredible concentration, ever more so than the 00, layers upon layers of intense cassis and ink, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and a long intense cassis and ink driven finish. It remains very primary will need at least another decade to approach the drinking window. This may warrant a perfect score… a couple decades from now!
Red
2011 Château Margaux
93 points
Medium expressive nose displaying subtle blue and black fruit, anise, ink and limestone mineral. Medium concentration, subtle cassis driven palate impression, medium acidity and mineral, fine tannins and a medium long cassis and ink driven finish. The mid is slightly hollow. Very well crafted wine that can be already enjoyed but will improve for another decade or two. The weakest wine of the evening.
Red
2012 Château Margaux
94 points
Youthful expressive nose displaying ripe concentrated red fruit, also a hint of cassis, very floral, sweet spices, lead pencil and earth. Very good concentration, round and soft sweet red fruit, medium acidity and mineral, fine tannins and a medium to long sweet red fruit and cassis driven finish. The generous warm fruit makes this quite approachable despite being primary.
Red
2014 Château Margaux
95 points
Expressive nose displaying pure primary fruit, crème de cassis, cherry, a hint of roasted fruit, ink, lead pencil, lavender and limestone mineral. Excellent concentration, very precise and harmonious, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral and a long youthful black fruit driven finish. I wonder if this will develop like the 95 but without the coarse tannins. Very promising.
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Closing
There were three Sauternes, '86 Rieussec, '88 Climens & '89 Yquem which showed well.