Three Produttori Montestefanos

Tasted September 21, 2018 by HowardNZ with 72 views

Introduction

I was intrigued by Aldo’s vertical of Ovellos and, once I returned home, decided to do a mini-vertical of a Produttori Cru. I ended up doing 2007, 2005 and 2004 Montestefanos side-by-side. Montestefano is typically the most structured and Barolo-like of the Produttori Riservas. All three Montestefanos clearly showed both their terroir and vintage markers.

Flight 1 (3 notes)

Red
2007 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Blind, I would have probably have guessed this was a 2007 Barolo, it is very 2007 Piemonte. Deep ruby, softly browning at the glass rim. A bouquet of black cherries, blackberries, black tea, creosote and dark earth. More primary on palate than on bouquet. Plush, fully ripe fruit. Bright black cherries, blackberries, soil and minerals, iron and crushed granite. Some savoury, umami notes. It moved more that way over the next two evenings with rusty and earthy notes and a touch of tobacco. Drinking well now.
Red
2005 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
I preferred the 2005 over the 2007. A more primary red colour than the 2007. Also a deeper, more powerful nose than the 2007, showing a greater volume of rich, primary fruit: cherries, dark plums and blackberries. On palate, also more concentrated, primary fruit than the 2007, lots of dark cherry and black plum. In addition, showing more minerals and less earth. Dense and powerful with silky tannins. Serralunga Barolo-like. Ripe, rich fruit, but not as plush as in the 2007. A little soy savouriness. Presently drinking well but seeming to have longer to go than the 2007.
Red
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
The best of the three Montestefanos. An interesting bouquet, fresher and more red fruited. Aromas of red cherries, raspberries, rose florals and lavender and other dried herbs. Also a touch of tar. In the mouth, noticeably less ripe, more savoury, than the other two Barbarescos. A hint of minty green. Sour cherry, cigar, tar, earth, porcini and sottobosco. The tannins were nicely integrated. Good definition, the 2004 seemingly with the highest acidity of the three. A long, dry finish. Better on the second evening, more evolved and secondary. At the start of a long drinking window.
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