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Dinner at Troquet with Henry

Tasted November 9, 2018 by emzee.mc with 153 views

Introduction

A dinner to celebrate Henry's 30th dinner at Troquet. Ed, Aveling, Jaida and Dan were present as well.

Flight 1 (5 notes)

White - Sparkling
2008 Bruno Paillard Champagne Assemblage Brut France, Champagne
94 points
Consistent with previous note. Deeper golden color with deep long legs. Super concentrated and pungent nose, plenty of straw, sugarcane, lemon zest, miso, minerals, musk, Jasmine flowers and honey. Palate is extremely generous. Textured, layered, and yielding plenty of body yet moderated by streaks of minerals. Fantastic balance with a smoky kick. Flavors of jasmine tea, honeyed water, sugarcane, wet stones and honeysuckle. Multi-faceted and with clear cut linearity to the wine. Finish is streaky yet generous, with an aged expression, musky expression to it. Very tasty juice.
White
2014 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
94 points
Beautiful straw golden color, long legs. Nose has incredible concentration and power, almost Aubert in style in terms of opulence. Buttered popcorn, sugarcane, honey, toasty oak and marzipan. Oak use is quite judicious. Texture is lean, reductive at first, but backed by oomph and alcoholic power. Minerals dominate the core after and boasts plenty of alcoholic kick however. Tastes of reductive just struck matchstick, candied lemon peel, sugarcane, wet stones and seashell. There even is some iodine to it. Finish is a touch smoky with plenty of complexity to it. Beautiful wine but I am a bit turned off by the disjointed alcoholic heat. With time, this beast should calm down though.
Red
2002 Domaine René Engel Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
97 points
Damn right amazing wine. Just so classy from start to finish. Deep brooding ruby color with extremely long legs. The bouquet is unfathomably pungent, concentrated and so powerful. The scent just leaps out from the glass effortlessly. On the nose, the wine boasts plenty of strawberries, macerated cherries, musk, leather, smoked meats, violets, basil and star anise. Absolutely cracking nose with plenty of power, class and finesse. On the palate, the wine is luxuriously silky and expansive as power wrestles with weightlessness. The juice cascades down with layers upon layers of strawberry-flavored fruit rollups, menthol, candied violets, smoked meats, racy minerals, kirsch and allspice. Absolutely mesmerizing, relaxing and ethereal. The wine then leaves with dignity in a lingering finish. It is feminine and beguiling at the same time. The juice of heavens.
White
2010 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
92 points
A declassified Musigny blanc grand cru. Initially thought it was a reductive Meursault. Deep golden color with really long legs. Nose is quite powerful and comes in waves. Plenty of oil on the nose, rubber, minerals, wet stones, butter, oak, lemon oils, marzipan and honeycomb are all present. On the palate, the wine is very textured, oily and streaky with minerals. Acidity is low and there is this marsanne/roussane oiliness to the wine. Palate hits with honey at first, then mixed with honeyed nuts, oyster shells, citric acidity, saltwater, and boiled dates. Finish is slick, oily, salty and marked by mineral streaks. This is quite unlike a lot of the white burgs I have had before. Powerful yet weightless. However, it seems a bit one-dimension to me as for now. I would appreciate more balance in terms of acidity. Right now, it comes off slightly fat.
Red
2002 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
95 points
Another mind boggling wine. A much darker brooding ruby than the Engel. Long legs and musky too. On the nose the wine is just as concentrated, if not more so than the Engel Echezeaux. Effortless finesse and weight as the bouquet leaps out from the glass. The smell profile consists of violets, candied strawberries, cherry syrup, wood, forest floor, truffles and toasty oak. The alcoholic strength is somewhat apparent in the phenols. On the palate, the wine is deliciously textured, with a masterful mix between silky tannins, red fruits, acidity and minerals. At this point of evolution, the wine is somewhat extracted and quite fruit-forward, probably a touch more than it should be (bit sweet!). The power, weight and effortlessness is impressive nonetheless. Flavors consist of strawberry jam, cough syrup, sweet fruits, thyme, black tea and mandarin peel. Finish is on the sweeter end of the spectrum, though the preserved prunes flavor really do come to the fore in a smoky conclusion. Fantastic extraction and juice. With time, I would imagine tertiary flavors developing to counterbalance the sweetness in the fruit. This has great potential to improve.
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