From Paris with Love, 2018 Edition
Paris (Girafe, La Tour D'Argent & Epicure)
Tasted November 16, 2018 - November 18, 2018 by Papies with 311 views
Introduction
What has now become an annual event, centred around the unique & great wine list of La Tour D'Argent. A unique opportunity to taste super wines kept in pristine conditions.
Flight 1 - La Girafe, Paris (2 notes)
Nested in Trocadero building this is a chic French place. Good seafood, beautiful people , French sort of aristocracy and at the right table great views of the Eiffel Tower. Poor wine list but ok.
They seem to be making this softer and rounder over the years and definitely is very welcoming and with an easy going nature. Dependable , solid and very good as an aperitif albeit is a bit on the simple side. 89-90
Good wine, good tension and depth of flavour and definitely one gets more here than a mere village. Has a meursault side to it at this stage a bit more buttery than the tension of Puligny. Very good though 90-91
Flight 2 - La Tour D'Argent - https://www.tourdargent.com/ (5 notes)
What once has fallen to the touristy scale is now making a comeback on food and quality. Of course the treasure here is its wine cellar which unique in the world. The food is now 1 star Michelin level albeit the prices or of 2-3 :) . A Mecca for wine lovers.
But one needs to like the style of this oldie and we have to admit we prefer them younger and more fresh. Honey touches, tertiary fruit, well evolved, still citrus and flinty touches. We will not rate as our palate preferences would not reflect the real value of this albeit we did not rate it badly at all! ( for us it was a 93 for Andreas 95 for Nicoletta but we were split a lot about it)
The nose of this wine just put a smile on our faces and the made us beam with happiness. A perfect nose. Dark fruits, smoky, roast meat, light touch of spice. Really a superb experience and one to put any wine to the test. The palate carries on the same tune, very much alive and spirited but comes shy of the perfect score. A beyond superb wine. 98-99
Dark fruited nose, light spice, light smoky edge as it developed , licorice, light oaky dynamics of cocoa. On the palate is a tour de force for a cote rotie but with pin restriant, balance and harmony. Young still and needs a good 5 yrs or so to develop into full potential. Superb wine and hopefully we will get to cross paths in the future with it again. 96
Maybe it is because it was eclipsed by the wines we had with it ( Chave 90 & Guigal Landonne 91 , Papies 99 & 96) but it never showed up to the party and barring the dense rich core of dark fruit, lacked an expressive side and really the complexity and flair we would have expected from it given vintage and given how superb the 2000 was when we tried it.
Very much alive, lots of dark fruits, lightly overdone on the richness and almost feels like it tried too much in its youth and maybe lost the battle with the ripeness ( much like beaucastel did with their 98 CDP). Good wine but not Hommage level. 93
We both went straight for Syrah from Rhone, but debated as to what could be and in the end went with Ogier Belle Helene from late 90s but not a superb ripe vintage so maybe 97 or 99. The wine had a homogeneity of fruit, a balance and a focuss that to us spelled monocepage and very rigorous selection of fruit. The harmony here we will remember for a longtime.
The wine itself when revealed sends you to a star gazing mode much like a romanee conti would.
Soft and very silky, super fine and elegant and very well mannered for a 98 , soft on the alcohol (13%!) , superbly elegant. Young and easily needs a good 10 yrs to sing at its best when it would pretty much be a perfect wine no doubt about it. Lacked a more expressive nose at this stage but the palate was just to die for. We rate wrt how the wine feels at time of tasting so we will do 96 but really with time this will be a perfect wine.
Flight 3 - Epicure, Paris (7 notes)
Classic but not heavy, superb French cooking with no attitude and precission. Proper 3 Michelin Star place, innovative albeit classic and simply superb. Probably among the best lunches in Paris if not the world.
Quite the charming and elegant wine and now at full stride. Soft, silky but very much alive, nice dark fruit on the nose, secondary, silky tannin and just a charm. Less powerful e almost 4 years ago ( Papies 95) more evolved and on the right path. Very well made proper burg. 94-95
Dark frutis mix with strawberry touches on the nose. Very much primary, young fruit but in no way sharp or austere. But still just getting into its stride. Quite rich but in no way jammy or overdone. Solid, well made wine just giving us glimpses of what it will become. 93-94 for now
Nose is textbook and was relatively easy to spot as a German Riesling. Andreas argued for spatlese, Nicol for auslese. Fresh, bright,petrolly and light caramel nose,light on the noble rot if any, rich feel but also a lightness to it. Very pretty and a solid 92
We went straight to vinsanto, ripe, dense fruit, sundried feel, rIchenss, light caramel . Young vinsanto. Nop. Very happy surprise, here, elegant, well made , good depth of flavour and delicious. Nice to try it young and fresh but this definitely has the legs to last for a loooong time. 91-92
A touch rustic and we guessed banyuls or rivesalts for this. Young a bright fruited, spirited, softer than a port but still with lots of presence. Lacks a bit of elegance if we are to be harsh but solid. 89-90
Very difficult to place and actually we went for a white sweet wine, more noble rot feel and we event found Sauternes in the style. Egg on our face. Very bright and right but also honey touches, soft wine and lots of palate presence. Not sure what we could compare it to. Very good. 91
Closing
Looking forward to 2019...