HDH December auction

Chicago, IL

Tasted December 13, 2018 - December 15, 2018 by acyso with 441 views

Flight 1 - Thursday session (9 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
90 points
A champagne with tons of inflections of white fruit. The richness and dosage shows here (and is very much enjoyed). A heavier style, but sufficient acidity to keep this fresh. Quite sappy and intense, broad and slightly oxidative.
White - Off-dry
2016 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese Germany, Nahe
93 points
A very gentle and demure edition of this wine, showing fairly quietly on the palate. There's far more acidity here than I remember in some previous iterations, and the sweetness is a little dialled down. There are lovely herbal tones and the fruit shows a distinct tartness here. Overall though, there is a mineral delicacy here that is just lovely.
4 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Dominus Napanook Red USA, California, Napa Valley
80 points
Something a little odd here -- extremely volatile, but given this is so young, and the source of this bottle, I'm pretty sure that the bottle is actually sound, but the volatility is almost off-putting. The palate shows a lot of sweetness, but the oak here is far too overwhelming. Astringent splinters everywhere. Not enough fruit and power on the palate to stand up to that oak mistreatment. Disappointing.
2 people found this helpful Comments (1)
White - Sparkling
2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut France, Champagne
95 points
Brilliant. Super young, but so much power and intensity here. A slight hint of breadiness on the nose, with some brioche, but then the lemon, apples, and all that good stuff starts to show up. Tons of precision but incredible power as well. Racy acidity. Possibly better than the Dom, at least to my taste...
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
1997 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
flawed
Corked, but the reduction covers it. Plenty of oak, and so much intensity here. Honestly, the TCA was so faint, I'd probably still drink this. It's so good -- the right kind of reduction, plenty of caramel and oak, and tons of fruit. Intense and powerful, too.
Red
2004 Gros Frère et Sœur Grands-Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
90 points
Served double blind (but pretty much assured it was Burgundy). My guess was a 1985 Vosne 1er cru, which was correct in terms of the earth, but not quite right given the acidity and fruit. The spice here was what got me to Vosne -- so generous and expressive. To be sure, quite lean, with a nice dose of earth. The green tinges aren't there, and there's a slight coffee note as well. Quite good, especially for the vintage, but it's a wine that doesn't really show the density expected for a grand cru.
Red
2005 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
93 points
Served double blind (but pretty much known it was Burgundy). There was a choice of Mongeard-Mugneret, Mugnier, Meo-Camuzet, and Ponsot, and I settled on a relatively younger iteration of Mongeard-Mugneret Murgers given the earthiness here. But so pretty, with that beautiful red fruit. The perfume, too, was stunning. I didn't settle on 2005 given how open this was, but I could tell it was a relatively younger wine, but the tannic structure is there.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
2016 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
93 points
Extremely reduced, perhaps almost to a fault, but at the end of the day, I'm fairly tolerant of it, so no huge complaints from me. The palate shows an intense flinty character, but doesn't quite have the right intensity on the palate to stand up to it. It's certainly a lovely wine, with plenty of minerality and flint, but I'm not fully confident this is one necessarily for the ages.
White - Sparkling
2008 Launois Pere et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Special Club Blanc de Blancs France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
93 points
A slightly creamy, briochy nose, with some really nice white fruit. The palate is fairly broad, with a very generous richness. Great acidity to provide cut through the bigger palate.

Flight 2 - Thursday dinner at S.K.Y. (10 notes)

White - Sparkling
2000 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut France, Champagne
90 points
This was probably the weakest of the bottles I had. While it had the sweetness and ripeness and generosity that I expected, I think on the palate this didn't come up as seamless as I remember it being. I'm still fairly confident that this is a great wine, and that it's at the peak drinking window now.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
1995 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
93 points
A surprisingly taut and lean champagne (perhaps a bit more so than I'm used to from CdC). Racy, with tons of acidity. Fresh and clean, with really good precision as well. There's also an interesting, slightly funky note on the nose that is probably the thing you get from old chardonnay.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Jérôme Prévost La Closerie Fac-Simile France, Champagne
93 points
LC15. Super fresh. Like off the boat kind of thing, so the fruit hasn't had a chance to shut down and hide yet. Really lovely cranberry tones on the nose, and despite this being totally dry, there's some serious sweetness here from being so youthful. Quite delicious -- I like the ripeness and the sheer exuberance here (no comment on having half the bottle explode all over the table -- good job Charlie).
White
2014 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
88 points
A little underwhelming, at least tonight. Way, way too herbal and green, with lots of underripe green notes, and some of those sugar-snap-pea-vein flavours that really stand out as green. At the same time, this is a fairly unctuous and thick wine, and there's a lot of alcohol showing (even if the label says 13.5%). Probably needs a lot more time/air.
2 people found this helpful Comments (2)
White
2008 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
95 points
My wine of the night tonight. This doesn't have the screaming reduction of the modern Roulots, but is a much more demure, more ethereal kind of white Burgundy. The acidity is there, but it is never in your face. This is a soft-spoken, understated wine, with all the hallmarks of great chardonnay at the same time. I almost regret that the style has changed...
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1998 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
95 points
Brilliant. Silky, svelte, and just all-round elegant. This is syrah as it's meant to be. Pure and clean, with generous black fruit and a fair bit of brine as well. But for me, this wine is all about that silkiness. Like slipping into silk sheets at night. There's a bit more acidity than I'd expect right at the finish of this wine, but pretty much this is in the window of my ideal syrah.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1998 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
93 points
All smoke and bacon on the nose, this is also really serious syrah. At the end of the day, I'm not sure if this bottle was as good as the bottles I had last year, but there's no debating that this is still a splendid wine. Much more resolved and ready to go than the 1999 alongside. There is a little astringency on the back end here that detracts from the wine, but overall, it is still a great bottle of syrah.
Red
1999 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
93 points
This wasn't showing as well as the 1998 today. It has similar smoky and briny tones as well, but the fruit here shows a lot more red and primary. The acidity too, is a bit more raw than the 1998. Lots of structure, this is a pretty big wine that isn't anywhere close to resolution. In time, this may be the better wine than the 1998, but I think the 1998 is more enjoyable today.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
1995 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
flawed
Ever so slightly corked. I didn't pick it up initially. The nose shows a distinct red-fruited character, more so than I would expect from Clape, and the palate was perhaps a touch lighter than I'd expect as well. The tannins do show as I would expect though -- they are super burly and big.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2014 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
93 points
Great wine with lots of great raw material. A surprising focus on red fruit and a slight bit of brine on the nose. The palate is a lot harder to understand -- it's a little hard right now, especially owing to the youthfulness. There's a clean minerality here that I love, and a good balance of ripe fruit and acids. Needs time, but I think this will develop into something pretty tasty.
2 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - Friday session (19 notes)

Rosé - Sparkling
2005 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé France, Champagne
88 points
Steely, very reductive nose with some sweet fruit perfume, and a slightly surprising coffee note as well. The palate is still quite angular, and the elements don't seem particularly harmonious here. A hint of sweetness, but overall, there are some high-toned aldehydic elements here that I'm still not too fond of. Hopefully this sorts itself out with time.
White
2013 La Clarté de Haut-Brion Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
85 points
Very odd on the nose -- a bit of creaminess that reminds me of durian, as well as plenty of other grassy and green tropical elements. It's like simultaneously really ripe and really grassy at the same time. The oak is a little too prickly on the finish here. Decent acidity and freshness, but at the end of the day, this just isn't really my thing.
Red
2016 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
95 points
Served double blind. Obviously Burgundy. Beautiful red fruit -- juicy and ripe. Quite reduced, so I went to Tremblay at first. Incredibly pure and clean fruit, with lots of crystalline clarity. Clearly grand cru depth and intensity here. You can insert all the usual comments about this being too young, but this is stunning now, and the potential is obviously clear.
White
2010 Jacques Lassaigne Coteaux Champenois Blanc Haut Revers du Chutat France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
88 points
Everything about this wine is great until the finish. The nose shows a touch of sulphur, but the palate is incredibly rich and broad, with great intensity. However, the back end is where this wine suffers a bit, showing tons of acid and sourness on the finish.
1 person found this helpful Comments (1)
White - Sparkling
2002 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut France, Champagne
93 points
A little bit more tart and lean than I thought -- I had actually guessed that this was the 2004. Racy, with lots of white-fruit and a good amount of acidity. It's got the broadness and intensity, but perhaps not quite the complexity that I seem to remember in this wine. This was admittedly not a large pour -- I think I may need to revisit this.
Red
2015 Alain Voge Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
90 points
Heaps of black fruit, and a slight hint of reduction on the nose. The palate is large-scaled, with heaps of ripe black fruit, and lots and lots of tannin. Obviously very young, there's no sort of modernist polish on this wine. Quite good, even if it's not necessarily the northern Rhone I would reach for.
Red
1993 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
95 points
Killer bottle, better than my last. Incredibly youthful, with heaps of generous fruit and lots of rustic, earthy structure. Tons of tannin and earth still, but the fruit here is showing very fresh. No muddiness or dirt to detract from this wine at all.
Red
2002 Mongeard-Mugneret Grands-Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
flawed
Corked.
Red
2001 Domaine des Chezeaux Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
85 points
A slightly dirty nose, with plenty of earthiness, and some spice. The palate is all acid and rust, and not deserving of the appellation on the label. Thin and muddy on the palate.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2009 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain Sélection de Grains Nobles France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
93 points
Tons of awesome candied citrus peel and bitter orange on the nose and palate. It's not too thick on the palate, and there's actually some really good cut here, perhaps more from the bitterness than the acidity. To be sure, the acidity is a little bit attenuated, but this wine still works remarkably well.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2012 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Eiswein Germany, Nahe
98 points
From half-bottle (what else?). Brilliant as always. Citrus, herbs, clean minerality, a hint of smoke, spice. Kaleidoscopic and so entrancing. Very sweet, but there's more than ample extract and stuffing to keep things in check.
White
2014 Yves Boyer-Martenot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
88 points
Shows a lot of smoke and oakiness, with a touch of bitterness on the palate. Missing some fullness on the midpalate as well, this doesn't seem to have the great cut and complexity I would want from the vintage.
Red
2007 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
93 points
Brilliant. So delicate and juicy, with a lovely perfumed nose and palate. I love the red fruit here -- minerally and clean -- and there's actually a really nice lightness on this wine that really speaks to me.
Red
2007 Christophe Roumier Charmes-Chambertin Aux Mazoyeres France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
93 points
Very intense and dense wine, to the point that I was very surprised about the vintage here. This is a very intense and deep wine, with a lot of intense earthiness. Broad, and not as approachable as the village Chambolle right now. I think with time this will be the better wine, but I prefer the Chambolle for drinking right now.
White
2015 von Winning Deidesheimer Grainhübel Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Pfalz
88 points
Nice white fruit on the nose, with some pears. A great bit of minerality here as well. There's still a fair bit of spritz on the palate, and there's a lot of leanness here. Not as generous with the fruit, this is fairly lean. Not enough richness and broadness here for the acidity.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1996 Château Haut-Bailly France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
93 points
Tons of green herbaceousness and tobacco on the nose and palate. Good black fruit and graphite as well. Very good density -- this is nicely resolved and drinking quite well. For my palate, this is drinking really well.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
1991 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
95 points
Brilliant, dense nose with lots of black fruit and a slight green and smoky edge. Very intense, and the earth is really lovely here. Incredible density and power in this wine, with that earthy, rustic edge that I love in this wine.
White
2000 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
93 points
Awesome stuff. It's wines like this that remind me of how awesome Leflaive can be. Lots of reduction on the nose, but the palate is broad and rich, and there's great intensity here. It's a nicely mature chardonnay, but there's this broad power here that I just absolutely adore.
White
2009 Domaine des Croix Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
flawed
Not entirely sure that this was a fully sound bottle. Sure, it was a round and rich wine, and shows lots of the power you'd expect, but there's more apple and browned tones than I'd like. Kinda sad about this.

Flight 4 - Friday dinner at RPM Italian (15 notes)

White - Sparkling
2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne Legacy Edition Label France, Champagne
95 points
Lots of reduction here on the nose. Plenty of concentration. Lots of fruit, lots of everything, really. It's a brilliant wine, with a heap of minerality and tons of acid. I've written previously about the awesomeness of this wine, and it holds true today as well. Just absolutely killer stuff. Need cases of this to drink young (because it's so damn good now) and cases of it to age (because it's got so much damn potential).
3 people found this helpful Comment
White
1995 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
flawed
Apple juice. Oxidized.
White
1980 Coche-Dury Meursault France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
flawed
Corked. More's the shame because this had some seriously good stuffing on the palate and lots of freshness too.
White
2010 Emmanuel Houillon (Maison Pierre Overnoy) Chardonnay Arbois Pupillin France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
90 points
Served double blind, and identified as Jura just based on the cloudiness of this wine. Looks a bit like sour beer more than anything. A really strange nose, with some corn notes, and other weird things that I couldn't place at all. Some stuff that vaguely resembles fruit as well. The palate is actually quite clean, with some good acids and some peachy flavours. It's a little natty, but not over-the-top. I'll be the first to say that I don't get the fuss about these wines.
Red
2008 Lorenzo Accomasso Barolo Riserva Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
80 points
Dumb and mute, and it never really perked up. A bit of volatility on the nose at first, but that blew off and there was just a pile of dirt. The palate never fleshed out either, and this was mostly just devoid of fruit. Never got better over the course of the dinner -- pretty consistent with my experience with this wine. No overt flaws here though, so I don't really know what to make of it.
1 person found this helpful Comments (1)
Red
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
98 points
This was easily one of the best wines of the night, even though I think it could have used lots and lots of air. This had a killer red-fruited perfume, with some gentle earth notes as well. It's a super delicate wine, with this light ethereal quality that somehow packs a very hard punch as well. This doesn't show the intense black fruit and tannin that I'd expect from the vintage, and really does seem to buck the trend a bit. Giacosa was a master, and every bottle is a treasure.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1985 Marcel Juge Cornas France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
flawed
Corked. A crying shame again, as when I tasted it, there was so much good material here.
Red
1994 Noël Verset Cornas France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
95 points
From magnum (right?). This is a dignified, gentle wine, with a serenity that seems quite distinctive for syrah. There's lots of briny notes on the nose, with a ton of olive tapenade, and a hint of charcuterie as well. The palate is also very soft-spoken, with black fruit, salinity, and meat notes all in quiet coexistence. Lovely acidity and fully resolved tannins. At peak now, I'm incredibly hard-pressed to see how this would further improve.
Red
2000 Marcel Juge Cornas Cuvée C France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
93 points
This is another syrah that has a lot of saline qualities on the nose. Olives, and a little bit of this stemmy quality that almost veers into herbaceousness. Very ripe, with lots of black fruit, and a mild feral/animal quality here. Lots of earth, this is very rustic.
White
2007 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
100 points
This is, for me, alongside certain Coches, the end of chardonnay. I cannot see chardonnay ever getting better this. The nose has a gentle tone of struck matchstick and flint, with some tart citrus notes as well. There's a slight hint of something herbal as well. The palate starts off with some ripe fruit that is completely dry. Peaches, perhaps? Then you get that minerality that just comes at you in waves. It's a very calm wine, with a little waxiness to counter the intense acids, but everything is just in perfect balance.
White
2008 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
95 points
I know it's being a bit spoiled when you say that a wine like this just didn't cut it. But next to the perfect 2007, it's so clear that this was a bit of a laggard. The nose here was incredibly ripe and showed more fruit and more florals, as well as a vague hint of botrytis. The palate is not as well-delineated as the 2007 either, with that botrytis causing the focus here to get a little fuzzy. There are stone fruit and citrus elements here, with the stone fruit feeling a touch sweeter than I generally like, but all in all, this is no slouch of a wine.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 163eme France, Champagne
93 points
I've never been a super big fan of this edition, but this bottle seemed to be showing a lot better than my previous ones. The Krug quality shows a little more prominently here, with that broad richness really starting to play up in the form of a bit of biscuity goodness. The palate is large-scaled and rich, and seems to have gotten bigger than I remember it being. There does seem to be a touch of white grape juice sweetness that needs to dissipate before this can become a truly great wine.
3 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2000 Noël Verset Cornas France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
95 points
$28.99 sticker still attached. I'd like a pallet please. Of the 2000s tonight, this was my favourite (though many others preferred the Chave). This was a delicate wine, with lots of olive-driven perfume, as well as some incredibly elegant red fruit. It's a gentle, demure wine, not quite as feral as one might expect, but it's definitely something right up my alley.
Red
2000 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
93 points
I think others at the dinner tonight liked this far more than I did. This is a fairly ripe vintage of Chave, and there's a lot of fruit here. It's missing a lot of the brine, smoke, and olive notes that I expect in syrah, and honestly, it's missing some of that Chave polish too. On the other hand, there's just this great density and concentration in this wine that I absolutely love. Pretty much ready to go now.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
1967 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
100 points
This just got darker and darker with air, but the wine was just absolutely stunning. Very thick texture, this pours without a sound. There's a ton of orange peel and spice here, with a complexity that is just off the charts. Caramel, brown sugar, spice, I could go on with a shopping list for ages. Suffice to say the nose alone with already dizzyingly complex. Then we get to the palate. Intensely sweet, with pretty much that same shopping list, but there's this beautiful vein of acidity on the back end that sneaks in and cleanly sweeps this wine to a long finish. The bitter orange on the back end bats cleanup, and gives this a slight herbal hit that freshens everything up. Easily one of the greatest wines I've ever drank.
3 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 5 - Saturday session (28 notes)

White
2015 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
93 points
Quite a nice touch of oak on the nose here. Tons of vanillin and lots of caramelly richness here. Lots of acidity, but this is a really ripe wine, showing a bit of blowsy fruit. Nice minerality here as well, which helps cut the ripeness of the wine.
White - Sparkling
1996 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésimé France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
95 points
A beautiful 1996 champagne. There's a slight funk on the nose (not TCA, despite this wine being from Phil) but I think that's more a function of the old chardonnay than anything else. The palate has tons of minerality and acidity. Super-focussed, brilliant stuff.
White - Off-dry
1979 Alfred Merkelbach Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
95 points
#03-80. Slightly herbal on the nose, with some very subdued fruit and herbal tones. Very gentle on the palate, this still has just a very subdued hint of sweetness, but counterbalanced with so many mineral and herbal tones. It's a very gentle, but still very powerful wine. Plenty of life -- someone knew what they were doing storing these, and I am immensely thankful.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1983 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
90 points
From magnum. Slightly dirty on the nose, with some heavy earthy notes. Lots of nice red fruit on the back end, counterbalanced by the lighter earth flavours. Perhaps more interesting than good? Some grainy tannins on the back end too.
Red
1999 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
85 points
Nothing overtly flawed here, but this isn't a great bottle at all. Really ripe black fruit on the nose, as well as a slight hint of volatility. The palate's better than the nose and shows a bit of oak. Not particularly interesting -- pretty much explains why I got rid of all of mine a while ago.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2005 Mongeard-Mugneret Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
93 points
Like this quite a lot -- lovely dense earth, with tons of black fruit. It's still extremely structural, and there's a lot of intensity here. It's a very rich wine, which still needs a whole lot of time for the tannins to soften. But the fruit is generous enough for some good pleasure.
Red
2015 Domaine Perrot-Minot Nuits St. Georges Les Murgers des Cras France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges
90 points
Super ripe and juicy on the nose and palate. Obviously young, but lots of black fruit. A touch of roasted earth as well here -- this is just a large-scaled wine that needs to resolve all the juicy youthfulness.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1986 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
93 points
Super weird and wacky, but with tons of fruit here. Lovely acidity, and lots of wet fur notes. The acidity helps to balance all the weird stuff here, but it's super delicious somehow.
White
2009 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
88 points
Fairly large-scaled nose, with a touch of oakiness, but the palate is the thing that is super weird here. Some sour cream and onion thing going on. Not really my speed.
White - Off-dry
1983 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese Lange Goldkapsel Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
95 points
#13-84, 7.8% abv. Killer showing for this bottle -- so glad at least one of my two bottles showed well. There's incredible acidity with so much dense fruit here. Lots of fantastic fruit and and intensity here. I love the smoky, mineral tones here as well. Just absolutely great stuff.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2006 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
93 points
There's something about Fourrier that always strikes me as stemmy, even though there are no stems. Lovely black fruit, with a nice sweet ripeness and black fruit. Good density on the palate, but I don't pick up enough of the earthiness that I would expect from the village.
Red
1978 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 890 Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
flawed
I'm not totally sure whether this is corked or not, but it's super funky. Not wholly stripped on the palate, but some interesting fruit and earth tones.
Red
1990 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
93 points
So delicate on the nose, with lovely sweet earth and perfumed red fruit. The palate is also soft and delicate and fully resolved. Very clean and nicely delineated. Great stuff.
Red
1991 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
93 points
Never been a huge Rostaing fan, but this is a really good one. Served blind, I'd have picked this to be far younger. Lots of generous fruit, there's an incredibly delicious attack here. Good earthiness.
Red
2009 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
90 points
Not super earthy on the nose or palate, but nice black fruit. Juicy and elegant, but a little burly and hard to approach right now.
Red
1997 Cuchet Beliando Cornas France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
93 points
Slight volatility on the nose here, but nice black fruit and earth. Quite earthy and tannic, with a real roasted quality to the dirt here. Lovely earth and rusticity here.
Red
1996 Cuchet Beliando Cornas France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
90 points
Oddly structural on the nose, with some weird reductive, sulphury, rubbery notes. This is really closed up and tight for my palate. Fairly representative of the vintage, if I'm applying my label prejudices.
White
2014 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
93 points
Yeah, this is great 2014 chardonnay. It's got that delicious acidity and freshness, with tons of citrus and freshness. Lovely crisp minerality and some sweet candied citrus. No waxiness, but this has that impression of thickness that I find in Raveneau.
White
2009 Karl Lagler Riesling Smaragd 1000-Eimerberg Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
90 points
Quite a nice sweetness here. Rich, with lots of broad sweet fruit on the palate too. There's some good density here, with enough sweetness to balance out the structure. A bit broad-shouldered for my taste, but quite good still.
Red
2001 Château Calon-Ségur France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
90 points
All graphite and earth on the nose. More of the herbaceousness comes out on the palate, but there's some nice sweet red fruit here as well. Very structural, this needs lots and lots more time to fully resolve.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1991 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
90 points
Good, but where's the Leroy magic in this? The nose is a little muted, and the crazy perfume is just missing. Nice fruit and earth on the palate, but you'd expect a little more from something with this pedigree.
Red
2008 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
93 points
Really delicious stuff. Shows a generosity on the palate that isn't too easy to find in 2008. There are some lovely black fruit notes here, with some delicious ripeness here. I really like this.
Red
2017 Pax Syrah Sonoma Hillsides USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
90 points
Super purple wine. Mouth-puckering tannin. Lots of juicy, black fruit. Lovely spice, whole cluster, low-alcohol, cool syrah. Far better than the leaner 2016 syrah, but this is just too juicy right now. Needs some time to chill out.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Off-dry
2001 Alfred Merkelbach Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
98 points
#01-02, 8% abv. Wow, this is cool and lean, with a really light, ethereal quality. I love the fruit here, it's so gentle and demure, with some really delicious herbal notes. Very gentle and quiet, this is a wine that speaks in hushed tones. So elegant and beautiful.
Red
2008 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
Wow, really lovely earth and fruit here. So much earth and fruit here. The red fruit is delicious, and there's a lot of lovely florals. The tannin is still far too young with a heavy graininess. Obviously needs time.
Red
2002 Patrick Jasmin Côte-Rôtie France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
88 points
It's not a super vintage, but there's a lovely coolness about this wine. Really elegant, with some nice red fruit and some tart acids. Pleasant, with a slight animale note.
White
2011 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Domaine France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
90 points
From magnum. Really broad and rich on the palate, with some really lovely sweet fruit. Great acidity to help balance the richness here. Really good stuff.
White - Sparkling
2006 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas-François Billecart France, Champagne
90 points
Some baked apple, some mild bread, and some other nice fruit notes. A hint of sweet on the palate, with good apple notes. Sweet, with a little bit of brioche as well. It's a broader wine, and the dosage here seems to work nicely with the material.
1 person found this helpful Comment
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