Indigena World Tour Day 3: The Marche

Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria, NYC

Tasted June 6, 2018 by kenv with 115 views

Introduction

Day Three focused on the wines of the Marche region of Italy, primarily Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. In fact, Indigena titled this day "50th Anniversary of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi & Friends" since Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi was granted DOC status in 1968. The first three sessions were all Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Session 4 had two Verdicchios from the other important Verdicchio DOC, Verdicchio di Matelica. Session 4 concluded with five reds from the Marche.

Flight 1 - Marche Flight One: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 1 (5 notes)

None of these wines see any wood. They are all fermented in stainless steel or cement tanks.

White
2017 Conte Leopardi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Castelverde Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
90 points
Bright citrus nose. Crisp and fresh. Tart orange and a hint of almonds and granny smith apples. Tastes even crisper after the next wine. Tasty and refreshing.
White
2017 La Staffa Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
89 points
Similar to 1, but the nose is sweeter. Softer in the mouth. Lovely, but not quite as refreshing as 1.
White
2017 Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Casal di Serra Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
93 points
[Some of the grapes are vinified using cold-soak to "improve extraction of varietal character". Fermented in steel tanks controlled to 16-18°C for 10-15 days. No malolactic fermentation. Aged in steel for about 5 months in contact with its yeasts. Bottled at the end of April.] Huge sweet citrus nose. Soft up front, but has serious structure in the mid-palate and long finish. Just a beautiful, complex white wine.
White
2016 Azienda Santa Barbara Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Le Vaglie Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
88 points
Fresh, simple, citrus nose. Opening slowly. Lovely, if somewhat simple.
White
2016 Azienda Agricola Andrea Felici Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
87 points
Not too sweet nose of citrus. Appealing. Simple.

Flight 2 - Marche Flight Two: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2 (5 notes)

White
2015 Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
93 points
More of a saline nose than anything in flight one. Incredibly rich and structured. A powerful wine that needs a few more years to fully open up. Wow! 92-94 points.
White
2015 Azienda Santa Barbara Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
92 points
Muted nose. Crisper than #1, but still quite full bodied. Long and very tasty.
White
2015 Azienda Agricola Andrea Felici Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Il Cantico della Figura Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
93 points
Crisper, fresher nose (more like flight 1). Lighter in the mouth, but so fresh and delicious.
White
2015 La Staffa Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Rincrocca Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
92 points
Like #3 more similar to flight one, but equally delicious, just lighter and fresher than #1 and #2, but I would not expect it to improve like those two. Ian says the big difference between 1 and 2 vs. 3 and 4 is that 3 and 4 come from vineyards at a higher altitude.
White
2015 Tenuta di Tavignano Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Misco Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
91 points
Rich, softer and sweeter than 3 and 4. Style is in between the first four wines. A hint of sweetness would make this a better choice for a dish with a little sweetness.

Flight 3 - Marche Flight Three: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 3 (7 notes)

White
2016 Azienda Agricola Bucci Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
94 points
Huge nose of citrus and minerals. Also huge in the mouth. A powerhouse wow wine. The first wine I swallowed completely. Stunning. If Zind-Humbrecht made a Verdicchio. Should improve for years to come.
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White
2016 Barone Pizzini Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Pievalta Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
93 points
Very intense nose. Flavorful, crisp in the mouth. A wonderful wine. From sandy soil.
White
2015 Filodivino Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Filotto Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
91 points
Muted nose, but quite full and flavorful in the mouth.
White
2015 Marotti Campi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Salmariano Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
92 points
Full and complex in the nose and mouth. "Salmariano" is the name of the local castle.
White
2014 Montecappone Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Utopia Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
Sour nose. An off flavor in the mouth. Something's wrong here. Judgement Reserved.
White
2013 Barone Pizzini Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva San Paolo Pievalta Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
88 points
Everything I liked in #2 (2016 Barone Pizzini Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Pievalta) pushed too far. Too oaky. Too intense.
White
2013 Azienda Agricola Bucci Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Villa Bucci Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
93 points
Smoky citrus nose. Similar to #1, but more so. Still not over the top. Needs time. 92-94 points.

Flight 4 - Marche Flight Four: Other Important Wines of the Marche (7 notes)

Session 4 had two Verdicchios from the other important Verdicchio DOC, Verdicchio di Matelica. Then concluded the day with five red wines from Marche: two Rosso Piceno, one Rosso Conero, and two Lacrima di Morro d'Alba.

White
2017 Belisario Verdicchio di Matelica Vigneti del Cerro Italy, Marche, Verdicchio di Matelica
92 points
Nose of green apple and peach. Full, thick, yet crisp in the mouth. Peach and pineapple in the mouth. Just delicious. Should improve for several years.
White
2015 Belisario Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva "Cambrugiano" Italy, Marche, Verdicchio di Matelica
91 points
Fresh, full. A bit simpler than 1, but still very tasty and eminently drinkable. Long.
Red
2016 Montecappone Mirizzi Rosso Piceno Italy, Marche, Rosso Piceno
91 points
Grapey, youthful waxy black fruit nose. Soft up front. Juicy acidity on the finish. Needs another year or two.
Red
2014 Azienda Agricola Bucci Rosso Piceno Tenuta Pongelli S. Fortunato Italy, Marche, Rosso Piceno
90 points
Smoky, spicy black pepper and black fruit nose. Smooth, more mellow in the mouth. Nice.
Red
2010 Conte Leopardi Rosso Conero Casirano Italy, Marche, Rosso Conero
88 points
[85% Montepulciano, 8% Syrah, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon.] Black fruit and dark chocolate nose. Thick, silky. A little gummy. Nice. A bit simple.
Red
2016 Marotti Campi Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Superiore Orgiolo Italy, Marche, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba
89 points
[Just bottled.] Tart black cherry nose. Tasty, grapey, young, appealing. Opening up in the glass. Some potpourri in the nose.
Red
2015 Filodivino Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Diana Italy, Marche, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba
87 points
Black pepper and black cherries in the nose. Jammy in the mouth. Would go great with some BBQ.

Closing

Another fascinating day of learning about wines from outside Italy's most famous regions.

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