La Paulée 2019 Grand Tasting of 2016 Burgundy

Pier 60, New York

Tasted March 9, 2019 by drwine2001 with 335 views

Introduction

This was a highly selective sampling of roughly half the wines poured, focusing mostly on Premier and Grand Cru wine from producers that interested me the most. The order reflects how the producers' tables were lined up at this walk around tasting.

Flight 1 (62 notes)

White - Sparkling
2008 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé France, Champagne
Lemony, light, crisp, some creaminess, good minerality. Excellent and young. Better than last showing.
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White - Sparkling
2007 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
Not that lively. Pear fruit. Deep, toasty, and dry, moderate wood, but short in acidity. Did not impress, in fact the 2008 Delamotte was much more alive and satisfying.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Floral, ripe orange, and some algal tones. Medium weight and acidity. Pretty middle of the road.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Bright orange aromatics. Broader and deeper the the Vaillons due to some wood. Better acidity but not a lot of Chablis character. This bottling can be much better than this.
White
2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Also has some citrus aromas. Leaner and more detail than than the Côtes Bouguerots, but not a top notch Clos. Both Fèvre Grand Crus fell flat this year.
White
2017 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Floral, saline, light, and lacy, but somewhat slight for Premier Cru Chablis.
White
2014 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Magnum. Fabulous complex fragrance. Airy citrus, some wood, fine acid, good length, but not as exciting on the palate as it is on the nose. Not a cracklingly acidic '14.
White
2012 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Bigger, deeper, lower pitched wine than the 2014, nd the oak is more obvious. Despite this, I think it is the better wine.
White
2016 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Curiously bland, light, and without any Meursault character. Not bad, just empty.
White
2016 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes-Dessus France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Much more to it than the Genevrières. Concentrated ripe fruit and oak. I don't like this fat, woody Meursault style.
White
2016 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Continues up the latter in terms of concentration and texture. A lot of this is because of the wood, which is even more evident here, but of all three Meursaults, this at least has the material and stone to at least partly justify the heavy use of oak. Not a top Perrières by any means, and like all of these wines, it leaves you wanting more acidity.
White
2016 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Chevalier-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Excellent sweet, rich stone fruit. Terrific round texture that comes from the concentration of the wine and not the barrels. Not plagued by oak like the Meursaults are. No question that this is the best of the bunch, but it lacks the creaminess and complexity of top Chevalier-Montrachet. A minor Grand Cru wine.
White
2016 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Oaky, ripe, lacks cut, complexity, and finesse.
White
2016 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
A huge step up from Clos de la Barre. Deep, ripe fruit, but here the oak is not nearly as dominant. Lovely gravelly underpinning, and a lactic creaminess. Excellent although this again does not have the strong acidity that will keep it fresh for ages.
Red
2016 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Forward ripe berry and spice with plenty of oak showing. Large scaled for Volnay, but good acidity, fine back end soil, and a citric lift. Modern and plodding compared to other Volnays tasted today, but the fruit is alluring and gives it early sex appeal.
White
2016 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Beautifully concentrated stone fruit and citrus. Wonderful feel and length. Fair amount of wood now. Average acidity suggests drinking over the short to intermediate term.
White
2016 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
More high toned nose with orange zest. Better acidity although not high. Less wood than the Clavoillons. Amazing glycerine, great feel in the mouth, lemon fruit, excellent length. Much more classic Puligny. I liked the Clavoillons, but I loved this.
White
2016 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Floral and lemony. Light and zippy with understated oak and terrific intensity. One of the liveliest whites I had today. Excellent +.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2016 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Duller, riper, rounder, and more woody than La Maltroie. Where's the acidity that that wine has? A big let down after that, and almost like this was from a completely different vintage.
White
2016 Domaine Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Citrus. Pretty elegant package for Meursault with average acidity and moderate wood.
White
2016 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Low pitched citrus scents. Deeper and more concentrated than the Genevrières. Sound acidity, excellent back end soil. Complete, fairly well balanced Premier Cru.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2016 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Attractively complex nose. Ripe, medium weight, long feel redolent of clay and sand. Some real creaminess. Not a monster, but refined and classy.
White
2016 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Ripe, loose, marginal acidity, overoaked. Not at all what I expected to find here. Very disappointing.
Red
2016 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Lovely mix of subtle red fruit, a dash of herbs, and gentle earth in a light to medium weight wine. Very fine concentration and legth. Excellent now and for the next 15 years. Supremely elegant Beaune. Terrific, unlike the underperforming white.
Red
2016 Joseph Drouhin Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Pale. Subtle aromatics, already complex. Maybe slightly lighter weight than the Clos des Mouches. Gently sweet muddled red fruits, vanilla, and a kiss of oak. Silky, lingering mouth feel. Prototypical Drouhin Gevrey Grand Cru, just so pretty. This would be easy to underestimate if you are not paying attention.
White
2016 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Beautiful combination of citrus, light oak, and excellent acidity. On the lighter side for this cru, but real elegance and breed.
Red
2016 Louis Jadot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots Domaine Gagey France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Lovely, relatively light, red fruited, and open. Approachable, elegant Nuits.
Red
2016 Louis Jadot Corton-Pougets Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Pretty textbook young Corton-lean, tight, high acid, and tannic. A bit of citrus. One of the few wines today with significant bite and austerity. Quite a shock right after tasting the very friendly Nuits Boudots. This will need ages to unfurl.
Red
2016 Benjamin Leroux Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Good, ripe, fairly concentrated village Vosne with very good acidity and a bit of wood. Simple now but should develop well.
Red
2016 Benjamin Leroux Mazoyères-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
Light color. Typical Gevrey brew of soil and soft red fruit. Lifted by blood orange. Gentle, fine tannins, excellent length. May never shut down. A sweetheart of a wine.
Red
2016 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mousse France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Light color. Aromas of warm earth. Soil and dark red fruits on the palate, surprising tannic clout. Not as cuddly or open as it smells. Very good.
Red
2016 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Cherry and earth. Medium weight, outstanding sappiness. In ways this is similar to the Lafon Santenots for its cheery ripeness, but I found this more complex, less overextracted, and not as marked by wood. If you are seeking a Volnay in this style, I think this is above class. Gorgeous now with great prospects for the next 10 to 15 years.
White
2016 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Domaine France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Fine nose of citrus and pineapple. Medium weight, good acidity, minimum wood. Not a lot of punch or depth. Overall nice wine but a poor result for this Grand Cru site.
Red
2016 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Warm, spicy nose. Supple, medium weight fruit, earth, and a touch of green. Beautiful already. A winner.
Red
2016 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Santenots France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Bigger, more black fruited than the Caillerets. Serious, drying tannins. Very different animal for the future, not the next 5 years.
Red
2016 Domaine Clos de la Chapelle Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Chapelle France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light. Really citric scents. Light, soil filled, some red fruit, but short, tannic, and without much charm.
Red
2016 Domaine Clos de la Chapelle Corton-Bressandes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Light ruby center. Fresh, orange peel nose. Much more depth and soil than the Volnay. Average acidity, pretty open for young Corton, but it is closed down by a touch of dry tannin at the end. Average quality
Red
2016 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Verseuil France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Medium ruby. Slightly candied nose. Excellent blend of black fruit, licorice, and soil. This is closing down and not nearly as forthcoming as other Volnays today-rough, grainy, tannic finish. Hold for a good long while, but should emerge in fine fashion.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2016 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Ruby. Lots of green. Medium weight, more sappy attack than the Verseuil followed by dry, gripping tannins. The finish reminded me of the Angerville style. Again, do not touch this early.
Red
2016 Domaine Y. Clerget Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Deep ruby. Fragrant, earthy smells. Deep, ripe black cherry entry, then a rush of citric acidity and serious tannins. Proper closing young Clos Vougeot austerity. Should be outstanding, but it will take 10 or 15 years to know.
White
2016 Maison Albert Bichot Corton-Charlemagne Domaine du Pavillon France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Both grapefruit and pineapple on the nose-unusual to say the least. Light wood, moderate weight, good soil and acidity, mineral finish. Not in my top 2 (of 4) Corton Charlemagnes today, but an interesting wine nonetheless.
Red
2016 Maison Albert Bichot Corton-Clos des Maréchaudes Domaine du Pavillon France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Light ruby. Mint. Medium weight, moderate oak. Nice sweet berry fruit and sap, not terribly tannic, good length. A kinder, gentler, more modern version of Corton and quite good for intermediate drinking.
Red
2016 Maison Albert Bichot Echezeaux Domaine du Clos Frantin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Light red. Perfumed herb, red fruit, and wood. Elegant, delicate red fruit and spice with a touch of soil. Moderately tannic. Very enjoyable and tasty to be sure, but hardly distinguished at the Grand Cru level.
Red
2016 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St. Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Bretty, light, and lean. Ugh.
Red
2016 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Ruby. Appealing earth/cherry nose. Round and sappy, excellent concentration and feel. Seems quite approachable until you get to the sneakily tannic, earthy, austere end. This will close down hard, but terrific potential.
Red
2016 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Medium ruby. Medium to full body but not as sappy as the Pruliers. Much more lean, backward, and structured. Dry, puckery tannins and earth. One of the most backward, old time reds of the day. You couldn't tell from this wine that Gouges is producing softer, more early maturing wines. It should be fabulous...in 25 years or so. Good luck to those of you who are my age and bought this!
Red
2016 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Ruby. More green than the Vaucrains. Lovely soil base, perfectly ripe fruit, excellent acidity, and less strangling tannins. The soil rises at the end. Exceptional Nuits that should be ready a little sooner than the Vaucrains but still should be a long ager. Superb.
Red
2016 David Duband Charmes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Light color. Fragrant light red fruit, crisp acidity, tannic finish. Nice but difficult to see Grand Cru quality. Drink soon.
Red
2016 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Black fruit and spice. Light weight, high acid. Excellent village wine.
Red
2016 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Bigger wine, more serious black fruit, fine acid/soil mix. Moderately terroir driven but still fairly open, supple, and civilized for Clos Vougeot. Really good, better in 10 years.
Red
2016 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Red, spicy, elegant, and long. Deceptively accessible but room to run. Pure seduction, as this wine always seems to be. Outstanding with tremendous nuance and delivery of flavor for its weightlessness. So pure and delicious that I must admit that it was one of the few wines where I circled back for a second taste, this time without spitting.
Red
2016 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Exudes well calibrated ripe fruit. Oh my god, incredible depth, sweetness, and spice for a village wine. Easily Premier Cru stature. Will last several decades.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2016 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Lighter, much earthier than the Vosne. Faint red fruit, but essentially soil driven. Refined, lighter bodied Nuits. Should easily last another 10 to 12 years.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2016 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Slightly deeper than the Nuits but structurally similar. Long, earthy, elegant, some greener elements. Again, utterly seductive and complex with staying power. Always adore this wine-this year was no different.
Red
2016 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Riper, rounder berry fruit and spices. Sappy, deep, and long with incredible purity of fruit. Fine grained, toothsome, sweaty tannins, but nothing remotely austere or tough about this. The pinnacle of refined elegance in this rather rough and tumble Grand Cru. Super wine.
Red
2016 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée La Colombiere France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Light earth, spice and everything nice. Very good base wine.
Red
2016 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Deeper, sweeter, and sappier. A real step up. Very fine at this level.
Red
2016 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Stillriper but not overripe berry fruit and Christmas spice. Lush, long, altogether wonderful. Now this is really special, bigger than the Echezeaux that followed. I retasted this without spitting for its unadulterated pleasure.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2016 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Red fruit, spice, orange zest. Elegant, some oak. Fine, long, and balanced. Maybe not quite as memorable at its level as the Reignots, but still delicious and clearly outstanding. Probably not a 20 year wine though.
Red
2016 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Dark color. Sweet, slightly sweaty. Tannic and a ton of finishing soil. Serious, excellent, and closed.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2016 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Airier, more green than the VV. Lean black fruit, soil inflected, severe tannins. Needs plenty of time. Old style.
Red
2016 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Light ruby. Berries and the smell of tannin if one can say that. Fine soil base, strong acidity, orange peel, mixed fruit. Some sap to start, but then properly tannic finish to close it down. Outstanding young Clos de la Roche that begs for at least a decade of cellaring.

Closing

My impression from this limited sample is that 2016 had divergent results for the white and red wines of the region. In red, it reminded me of 2010 in its consistent excellece across appellations. Perhaps not as many head turning wines, but plenty of outstanding bottles. What I really liked was the expression of site that it allowed and the range of attractive flavors and aromas. Unlike some vintages, there was not predominance of red fruit versus black fruit, warmer versus cooler, or open versus more structured. You could find any of these qualities in some of the wines, depending upon site, producer, and vinification style. This is as it should be rather than "Everything from vintage X shows these characteristics".

For the whites, I thought it was a different story. The concentration and intensity were very good, certainly not exceptional, and I found myself wishing for more acidity and tension in most of the wines I tasted, even in the small number of Grand Crus. This seems like an average, serviceable set of white wines that are enjoyable but not great. They should be drunk early rather than held for any significant amount of time (not that anybody should be burying white Burgundy these days from any vintage).

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