The big 4-0
Ristorante Morini
Tasted March 15, 2019 by MC2 Wines with 247 views
Introduction
Went out last night for a belated 40th of a good friend. Some great company and some great wine.
Flight 1 - Pre-dinner bubbles (2 notes)
Served with some passed apps including fried artichokes and burrata spoons
White - Sparkling
2006 Dom Pérignon Champagne
France, Champagne
On the heels of an 82 Krug which is kindof a cruel match-up. This is certainly a solid and good champagne. I still think on the young side although it also seems like a lot of folks are enjoying drinking this young. Similar to how it was a few months ago. It's softened and is easier drinking and clearly a quality bubbles, but lacked all of the extra interest factors that age seems to bring.
Flight 2 - ANTIPASTI (3 notes)
Choice of
INSALATA DI CAVOLO
kale salad, orchard fruit, seasonal vegetables, candied almonds, ricotta salata
BURRATA
creamy mozzarella, eggplant caponata, agrodolce
BOCCONCINI
tomato-braised chicken-eggplant meatballs, mozzarella di bufala, basil
Red
1979 Château Margaux
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
This is Bordeaux more in the tertiary style so you either like that or you don't really. I happen to be in the former camp. There's some saddle oil and a bit of vegetal notes (but more in a way that adds interest than something feeling unripe). Bit more herbal. Lots of saddle leather. No real fruit to speak of, but this combination was pretty compelling. Interesting as it was poured side by side with the 71 HB which still had some fruit but perhaps wasn't as overall complex.
Red
1971 Château Haut-Brion
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Starts off almost a bit astringent, but it mellows in the glass. Turns into lots of dark berries. Still good acidic backbone. Served next to the 79 Margaux and it seemed people were quite split on them. I would say Margaux a bit more complex, but this a bit more fresh and amazing that the fruit is still going. I was in the camp of both are delicious.
Red
1979 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard
USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
We were at a Heitz dinner a few days ago and fun to see this wine served next to some classic Bordeaux. I will say it more than held it's own. Predominant flavor of cocoa, but with some nice red berries. Perhaps a touch fuller bodied than the Bordeaux, but not in a bad way. A lush wine that was still rocking 35+ years later. Will keep an eye out for these.
Flight 3 - PRIMI PIATTI (4 notes)
Choice of
AGNOLOTTI
veal ravioli, wild mushrooms
TAGLIATELLE
classic ragu bolognese
RISOTTO
acquerello risotto, wild mushrooms, porcini fonduta
Red
1979 Penfolds Grange
Australia, South Australia
I'm whatever the right word for a Grange groupie is so pretty excited to get a back to back tasting of 70's vintage Grange. That doesn't happen that often. This was everything I love about Grange - just a blend of eucalyptus and fruit and spices and everything well put together and every time you taste the wine it's a bit different. Awesome.
Red
1978 Penfolds Grange
Australia, South Australia
I am really loving this vintage of Grange. Probably my WOTN although it's slightly younger brother (the '79) and the '85 Monprivato gave it some stiff competition. Again you're getting those darker fruits and spices and a bit of violets and flowers and some eucalyptus. The difference between this and the '79 was this felt just a touch more integrated at this point (although I will say both are still pretty young wines). Really delicious. Drinking window on CT all off - this is going very strong.
Red
2003 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Well done. Tasting a bit more aged than I would have expected for 16 years. This actually was in a nice window. There's this balance with these Barolos where they have a certain lightness in the front palate but then you get the power coming later in the form of darker fruits and more spices. Very good.
Red
1985 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A contender for WOTN for me which is saying something since there were also Granges. This was just wonderful. So young and vibrant. Almost more red fruit and berries (compared to the Francia that was darker). Very fresh. Well done.
Flight 4 - PIATI PRINCIPALI (4 notes)
POLLETTO
roasted chicken, beluga lentils, swiss chard, chanterelle mushrooms, chicken jus
MILANESE
crispy veal cutlet, mushroom crema, prosciutto, sage, arugula salad
TAGLIATA
grilled hanger steak, roasted root vegetables, puntarella, bone marrow beef jus
Red
1939 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva
Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
It is amazing to think this wine is older than my parents and I am very sure that if served blind most people wouldn't get anywhere near guessing right vintage. These Rioja surely can age. Touch of the tomato paste, some red fruits, some leather. It wasn't quite as interesting to me as some of the other bottles, but the history and interest to it given the age were pretty astonishing. If guessing, I'd have said 90's or maybe 80's.
Red
1979 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único
Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
This was opened and decanted early and poured on the later side and still I think this wine is one of those monsters that just needs more years. It pours a dark almost purple color with zero perception that the wine has aged almost at all. Lots of darker fruits and spices and you can sort of get an oak grain to it but a bit more closed. With some time in the glass became a bit more expressive, but this is definitely a wine with a long window. Will continue to hold on ours.
Red
1958 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único
Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
Probably should have looked at earlier notes for this bottle. In retrospect I would have decanted for sediment and then rebottled and probably given it a bit of time. I know many liked it, but for me this is missing some of the Unico power. When it poured it was similar to port. Lots of the dried fruit flavors. To be honest, alcohol a touch overpowering. That blew off with some time in the glass. It was good (and perhaps I am judging this partially because I know what it costs), but for me not quite at the level it should be.
Red
1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
This is a great young version of this wine. It's still to me on the young side. Will hold our bottle for awhile. I think got more of a pnp treatment. A bit of a fuller mouthful. Lots of red fruits. Somewhat spicy. Not really showing much age right now.
Flight 5 - DOLCI (3 notes)
TORTA DI COMPLEANNO
buttermilk chocolate cake, chocolate mousse, mocha, dark chocolate glaze
White - Sweet/Dessert
1979 Château Caillou
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
First time with this wine and I will say it was fine but didn't totally impress. It's a lot like drinking sugar water which can be enjoyable. Missing some of the body and fruit and floral flavors that I typically like to find in a sauternes. Totally surprised me though with how young it tastes given the age. This could have been a more recent release. Poured a lighter golden color and couldn't tell there was any age here.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1937 Château Caillou
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
The oldest wine of the tasting. Poured a very dark almost brown color. Interesting contrast to the '79 which was still quite golden and light and not showing any age. This was like that sugar water had been aged and had turned into more of a caramelized version. Again missing some of the extra interest factors, but when you get this old sometimes you don't need them to still be interesting.
White - Sparkling
1996 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut
France, Champagne
End of dinner bubbles which is a tradition that is growing on me. Kindof nice to have something a bit lighter after lots of food and wine. I continue to love this one. It's oxidized, but that only makes it a bit more interesting. Vanilla and caramel and touch of a punch to it. Very tasty.
Closing
For me Grange will always be king and those two were just killer. The 85 Monprivato was also shining - super young and fresh. Every bottle though was really fun and interesting.
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